John has produced another very nice kit in the form of a Crossing Keepers Cottage. The kit as usual comes in a variety of textures for you to choose from. To find out more : https://scalescenes.com/product/r007a-crossing-keepers-cottage/ Cheers, Gary.
Well get building it then and bring it over for the exhibition. I'll have it in brick finish as displayed.
Strangely I was thinking the same thing. its not a million miles away from the one at Abbey Crossing or Crakemarsh Crossing at Uttoxeter. to make that look more NSR just modify the corbelling arrangement on the chimney stacks, remove the tall brick outside wall and change the tiles for decorative scalloped rows interspersed with straight ironstone tiles. We want this in O Gauge please.
Yes it does look very similar to North Staffs buildings. Paul look in Scalescenes Scratchbuilders yard, TX41 Hanging Tiles these may be of use, for the roof tiles you would get away with printing A4 to A3. Paul (tother one above hadrians wall)
I've bought these Dundee Paul... but they can work out costly if you were doing a model of Stoke station. www.yorkmodelrail.com/0-scale/tiles-and-ridges-1/0-scale-multi-styletiles
And that's where the plotter cutter comes in, on Viccy Road I cut my own tiles using a KnK Zing cutter, I think Rob uses a Silouette, both of these allow you to create your own designs (watch out for the Crikit cutters as they use cartridges and or web based tools with predefined patterns - although that may have changed). So far I have only made standard roof tiles and usually cut them from 120 to 180gsm card. I make (well actually the KNK Zing - a plotter / cutter) my slates from card strips, usually grey but I've ran out and it appears my local stores no longer stock 160gsm grey card either. I'm sure its a conspiracy, never mindf plan B, white 160 gsm cardwill have to do. The strips are cut by the KNK Zing from the Make the cut software One sheet will produce 21 strips of slates. Each sheet took approx 20 min to cut, afterall it reckons it has 41,984 points to plot. The strips are then removed from the cutting matt, and any chards removed. Finally they are painted with a wash of Black acrylic paint - thinned with W5 window cleaner. I used a 4 x 5 mm grid (made and printed in Excel) and stuck to the base layer card, then added the strips, using the grid for alignment. Either on or off the model So could be an affordable alternative method (ish) - and could be used for other things as well (if the better half is into crafting you could have a shared purchase ) Paul
Looks like I'm in the market for a plotter then... hmm of course I can always put this against tax as a business expense and SWMBO often reminds me about doing "joint" art projects which involve making tiny little scenes with people in and trees and dogs and pigeons...
Getting the card the correct colour helps, as Ive noticed the card / paper either stretches or shrinks after painting, and waiting until after the tiles are in place doesn't work as well as the glue can effect the way the paint soaks into the card. Paul
PVA, via a micro bottle. The supplier I got mine from has ceased trading - retired I think, but Metcalfe Models do them Paul
I run a bead of glue on the grid and on the upper part of the tile strip, otherwise the tiles tended to lift, and most of my tiles were installed on the completed buildings, with my spraying skills everything would get hit
No I just wondered if the "wetness" of PVA was the issue with expansion and shrinkage of the tile pieces, there is a basing glue you can get from WWScenics that has a good tack without giving to much wet saturation on card.
I used mount spray on my Wheeldon big shed build and the corrugated paper would not stay glued. I finished up using spray carpet glue. Pete.
You know Pete I think carpet spray is as good as anything... to be honest I've used 3M spray mount in the past and have found it to be less efficient on certain papers. It is probably best used with photographic paper.
The photo mount sprays tend to use less aggressive chemicals so that don't react with the papers, and also allow a bit of repositioning. I think most of my stretching came from painting the tiles after they were cut and before laying. That's why my best results were from a grey card stock - unfortunately, the same colours has never been back in stock. Paul