Just ordered a resistance soldering iron ( product code B280 ) from Frost Restorers equipment for £98.99 it comes with the footswitch. The image does not show it but I phoned and asked the question. The guy at the other end went and physically check the product on the shelf so it is included. Replace,ent carbon tips are £5.99 each. I mentioned what it was being used for and he said it is absolutely fine. There are 3 reviews on the site and one of them is from a guy who uses it for the same purpose. He recommends it. Its also half the price of the London Road Models equivalent and a fraction of the price of an American Beauty. As usual, I'll post up the pics when it arrives. Cheers Toto
A while back I replied to one of your threads regarding a Resistance Soldering Iron... Which thread I replied to, I can not remember ! Cheers, Gary.
I'll have a look. There seems to be a great lack of choice and availability for these things. Partially down to being able to get CE registration approval for them. One reason that would put me off going down the " home made " route. These safety standards are there for a reason. The American Beauty is expensive compounded by the import taxes. London Road Models are rarely in stock and still twice the price of the one above. I don't feel quite so nervous about spending £100.00 And taking the risk that it doesn't suit me. Curiosity has got the better of me and after watching a couple of videos of it in action, must try it out. I don't think it is a 100% replacement for standard soldering but could be used in the majority of cases. Great for tacking small pieces. I have also got a shed load of solder paste which I am itching to try as well. Belly will be my first experimental piece. Cheers Toto
Be careful buying lot's of solder paste it has a shelf life and becomes hard and unusable in time....
The buffer beam on Nellie would be a good place to start, clamp the footplate to your bench / worksurface, with the earth lead attached to the clamp. Then you can tack the beam in place with the RSU at each end and in the middle, then when happy with the position run a fillet with the 80W from the center to one end, let it cool then the second fillet from the center to the other end. Neodymium magnets can be used to help hold the parts in place. Looking forward to seeing this in action. Paul
Alternatively just continually tack solder at regular intervals ? I don't know what the size of each tack weld would be ? Maybe a few mm. Toto
Arrived this morning and as usual ..... photo's to follow. Initial comments ........ The footswitch to operate current on / off is integrated into the power pack. Hmmmm. Ok but maybe not ideal. The leads that come from the power pack to the iron and ground clamp could have done with being a bit longer. It seems a nice unit and of course the proof will be in the testing. I need to get a suitable ground plate organised. More later Toto
and the pictures ....... first up the main unit ..... with UK plug ...... and built in foot switch ..... not so keen on ....... iron and grounding clamp ......... with approximately one metre of connecting cable between the main unit / foot switch and the tool / clamp..... not really enough in my opinion but will have to do. it comes with one carbon rod / tip but I bought another few spares .... and there we have it. I have bought some solder paste and some 145 degree solder as well. I am currently sourcing a bit of mild steel plate approximately 500mm by 300mm and getting 8mm or 10mm slots cut along the side of each plane to cater for 25mm ally angle fences to assist in holding pieces in place etc and a single 8mm or 10mm hole for a bolt / stud to take the grounding clip. sorted. cheers toto
the soldering paste ...... and 145 degree solder ....... everything in stock now awaiting the grounding plate being made up. cheers toto
The handle looks like it started life as a Weller soldering iron Will be interesting to see some of your results. I wonder if Frost Restorers wonder why they suddenly sell out after your upcoming review. Paul
I think they currently have 2 left in stock. one of the reviews was by a railway modeler and was very favourable ....... that sealed it for me. cheers toto
Mmmmmmm think I have an old soldering iron with a knackered tip, I've found a set of instructions on Tinternet to grow your own, and have already bought a foot pedal and 5mm carbon welding rod in preparation. Just in case looking for alternative welding rods 5mm rods Eileens Emporium sells 4mm, 5mm and 6mm dia rods (that's where I got mine from at the Perth Show at £1.50 each) The rods can be cut down to the length you want, and the tip cut with a pencil sharpener Paul
I'll get the micrometer on the carbon tips and determine the size. I was conned into paying many times more for the spares that I bought with the unit but that wont be happening again i can assure you. Thanks for the link. cheers toto
Forgot to say .... I have a blacksmith on the job for a bit mild steel about 4 or 5mm thick by 500mm x 300mm. 4 slots ( 8 or 10mm ) two longditudinal and two vertical to fasten aluminium angle fences to. plus one hole for a 10mm bolt / stud to clip the grounding clip to. May as well get it right and the steel grounding plate will act as a support and bending bars if need be. ( even though I have more sets of bending bars than a big bending bar thingy ). I'll try and get the ground plate sorted before the end of next week prior to returning to work. That way I could actually get a wee shottie of it. I can feel tremours coming from the shed ........ probably Nellie has heard of the latest developments and awaits her fate. cheers toto
The blacksmith has disappeared of the face of the earth. My job was maybe just to small and too much of a PITA for him. So, I have ordered up a piece of 2mm thick mild steel plate from tinternet. 400 x 400mm. I'll mount it on a bit MDF and fit a nut and bolt through it as I think I'll cut of the alligator clamp off the RSU and fit a compression crimp instead which will be crimped and soldered to ensure good electrical conductivity. Resistance Soldering is very dependent on good electrical conductivity to help ensure that maximum electrical input reaches the tip instead of being lost along the way to high resistance joints etc. The crimp will be polished clean and fastened to the plate via a nut, bolt and washer arrangement. I may have to redesign the " fence " arrangement as I don't have a suitable method of creating the slots required in the steel plate. The main reason for initially trying to procure the services of a Blacksmith. Plate steel will be a beggar to cut. Especially to any degree of neatness. More on this once the steel plate arrives. Cheers Toto
Just get a length of 1" (25mm) ally angle and drill a couple of holes towards the ends, and matching holes through steel / mdf. Use your forstner bits to create a recess in the underside of the mdf for a T nut sink into. Then just clamp the angle using a set screw Paul
The fence needs to be movable up and down the length of the plate so a slot will be required. The same will be required in both planes. so a tee nut wont be off any use. cheers toto
Steel plate has arrived for me grounding plate. I'll need to mark out where I need it drilled etc and work out the timber / MDF base with the fence guides. Great stuff. Toto
here it is ...... 400mm x 400mm. and just for an idea of the physical size .... and the thickness ..... 2mm ........ so there we have it. screw holes to fix it to a timber or MDF base and a bolt / clamp fitted to it for the ground connection and away we go. cheers toto