Steve Beattie kit NBL Class 21 build

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by York Paul, Aug 17, 2018.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking forward to seeing the sub frame and the dreaded bogies come together. :avatar: you'll be an expert at these before too long. :thumbs:

    Cheers and keep up the good work kind Sir.

    Toto
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    The sub frame looks a relatively straight forward build, the bogies I can get my head round and seek out the best way forward. I may well glue the whitemetal castings on as heat sweating will be a challenge with the Slater's wheelsets located inside the brass inner carriers.
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    :scratchchin: cant visualise that yet but ill take a look at the destructions and get my head atound what that looks like.
     
  4. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Just like this Toto, the inner carrier frame consists of four parts, two headstocks and two sides which the wheelsets fit into once the axle stub bearings have been soldered and axle extensions added. The last side carrier piece can then be soldered into place after the wheelsets are dressed with Delrins and gear drive and the floating motor frame etch. Hmm :scratchchin: then the white metal castings are added at some point... now you see why the frame castings cannot be sweated on without risking damage to the Slaters wheels.

     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2018
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  5. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I don't see a problem with glueing the bogie side frames in place Paul, modern adhesives are very good, I have used super glues and two pack like Araldite for years, nothing has fallen off and they are easy to clean up.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
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  6. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Pete... I knew I could rely on you for a confirmation of product type. :tophat: I was thinking of using a two pack Araldite epoxy to glue the white metals into position, that will give me a better working time than using Roket Cyano (which is good for small parts) and it eliminates the need for getting it spot on first time with literally only seconds to work with. I would feel a shed load better if these bogies had inner frames such as on the Class 24 build... even if it did add a bit on the price I think the build integrity would be better. What is your opinion about the glue on frames versus having an internal bogie frame unit Pete?
     
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  7. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    The bogies are designed the same way as the Co Bo. You can laminate the white metal to the etch brass then construct the centre stretcher but don't add the headstocks. Insert wheel sets by springing the bogies apart then add the headstocks. A quick dab with the iron won't effect the wheels.
     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Steve, funnily enough in the solitude of working at a clients property this morning that same thought entered my head, thanks for confirming this is the way to go.:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
     
  9. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    To be honest I've not built a diesel bogie. However I have built coach bogies, I scratch built the inner frames and epoxied the outer white metal (Wayoh) bogie sides, 8 altogether without a problem. It never crossed my mind to consider soldering them on.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
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  10. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    That's fair - I took out the inner chassis to allow more room for Delrin and motor/gearbox. However if modellers preferance is an inner frame then I'll include this option on all future kits. It doesn't affect the price that much as it happens.
     
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  11. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    This evening I focused on the building the mainframe which is covered in Part 6 of the Class 21 build instructions, the mainframe simply consists of two sides, two centre stretchers, two bogie stretcher which have to be folded, two base flanges and one top unit, effectively what is being made are two parallel I beams with cross bracing. Once the mainframe items are released from their frets and filed clean I soldered the two middle stretchers into the side pieces which when complete will form the web section of mainframe girders.


    Next I used my hold and fold to form the bogie stretchers, it was at this point I ran into a glitch, when the bogie stretchers (part 16) are folded the width is just 10mm but the tab slots on the side web holding part 16 correctly is just 4.5mm wide, not a problem. Just remove the inner tabs on part 16 and align the bogie stretcher using the outer tab mated to the outer slot, I checked the position against the top piece for correct alignment.




    When satisfied the position is correct I soldered the bogie stretcher to the side web on the one remaining tab, at this point I'm just looking to tack solder this item together.


    The next move is to solder the side, middle and bogie stretcher assembly onto the base unit, I started in the centre working outwards ensuring that the side web is seated correctly inside the half etch line. It is at this point the bogie stretcher can be soldered to the side piece proper.

     
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  12. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Doh! :facepalm: Rather basic error that one.
     
  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Now the two base flange lengths are next to be soldered onto the side web after gently bending to shape, this will then create the I beam girder section. It was at this point I encountered a bit of an issue with the bogie stretchers which were obstructing the fitting of the base pieces, the reason is that part 16 when fitted sits above the top of the side piece
    An easy fix this Steve and didn't affect the integrity of the build at all... just needs some lateral thinking.:thumbup: I guess it can be amended on later etches.
     
  14. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    The answer to this was to cut away the obstructing brass on part 16 to allow the base angle flanges to sit down properly on the side webs.



    And the first base angle piece drops in nicely and can be soldered so the whole mainframe unit is exactly as it should be... nice and flat and completely level. I guess the modification I made could be dealt with in different ways had I been aware of what was coming but in the dry assembly this never even occurred to me. Anyway the main thing is everything is as it should be now.
     
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  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Next thing I knew was that my best 45watt Weller iron suddenly went cold... :facepalm: oh dear and the 35watt Wellerwith pointed tip isn't up to the job and the solder station has the wrong tips fitted.:hammer: Only one thing for it and that is get out the 80 watt big boy, its mean and messy but will get me out of a hole until tomorrow when I'll buy a new 45watt iron.


    This picture shows that the mainframe is a pair of shaped girders.


    Now the M3 brass cheese head screws and nuts arrived by post today so a little play was in order just to see how the build is going to look at the next stages, I fixed the mainframe to the body skeleton ... nice fit and straight too.



    And finally the class 21 bodyshell was slipped over the assembly... all in the name of fun. I'll separate all these component assemblies again tomorrow and focus on making the battery box which fits underneath the mainframe and then I'll refocus on building up the bodyshell again.
     
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  16. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Now its starting to look like a loco.:cool:

     
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  17. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Excellent progress York Paul. It really turns into some impressive structure. You can start to see the strength coming into the structure now. Difficult to imagine easily at the beginning. How to' s don't come much better than this. Gold dust kind Sir. :thumbs:
     
  18. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just looking at the last image. The beam on the underside, is there a slight offset in it ?
     
  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Sorry , looking further back I've answered it for myself. There is an offset along it's length.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Just to clarify this area Toto, yes there is an offset in the mainframe beam, now the base angle strip has a half etch line at each end where the offsets are made and the central section which is where the beam becomes deeper has no half etch. So it is very important to start the solder of the base piece at one end and proceed to the other end making sure the web remains located inside the half etch. otherwise you will come adrift when you get to the centre area if the web has not been located properly. :thumbup: Here is a better picture showing the finished item and what I mean.

     
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