I was asked on one of Toto's threads to post the build photos of the M&M Models 4 Shoe Pipe Wagon. I bought this kit because, the price seemed reasonable and it was labelled up as an LMS Pipe wagon. However it wasn't until I received it that I realised that it had in fact been built by BR to an LMS design. Because it ultimately didn't fit with my grouping era I decided that rather than sell the kit on, I would build it to get a picture of what the M&M kits were like and to raise additional modelling funds. The axle guard castings were quite clean looking as were the other castings in the kit. The basic box shape of the body folded up and came together without issue. Then I started on the underframe which also went together without issue. I had some spare MMP D shaped wagon plates so it would have been rude not to use a couple - I seem to recall that there were some whitemetal examples included but they were a bit overscale to my eyes.
I had forgotten that I didn't finish off this thread with the rest of the build photos. As I mentioned on another thread the brakes as supplied didn't fit so I scratch built some replacements. It looks like I also made some safety loops too. I replaced the cast brake cross shaft with a length of copper tube too.
The floor framing looks a bit awkward to get a soldering iron into whilst trying to hold the pieces together. How did you tackle that. Is the positioning of the various short floor frame members critical in any way. I have the same floor framing on my van build and it's my next thing to tackle. I was thinking a 24watt soldering iron with 140 degree solder ....... what's your thoughts ?
Did you solder the underframe with your gas torch Rob? I think that would be the way I would go. Pete.
Hi Gents, I used the microflame for as much as I could but certainly all of the framing that Toto is looking at next. If you are using the iron I would suggest using a bigger/hotter iron and running the solder down from the top of the joint rather than trying to get a smaller iron in the tight spaces. - Plenty of flux, pick up a blob of 140 solder and place it on top of the joint (with the joint vertical) and let the heat, flux and capillary action draw the solder down the joint. This has the added advantage of allowing the bit that get solder spread on it from the iron to be under the body when the underframe is match up to the wagon body.
Thanks Paul, Sorry I have no idea because I sold it after I built it, but I seem to recall it was a reasonable weight due to the brass body and whitemetal fittings.
