Lost the notes I made while doing this build, so I'll just have to wing it. The only modification I made, was to put posts in holding up the platform canopy. The instructions for this model were excellent. Plus using the knowledge I gained from the Signal box build, things went fairly smoothly. The most difficult thing to do was cutting the 2mm board. I used a box cutting knife and it took a long time to cut accurately. I was very surprised how well the down pipes came out. I was very sceptical, and was going to change them, but now very happy with the results. The amazing thing is, how strong these paper, and cardboard buildings are. I personally clear coat the models after I have finished the build, I find that this helps hold the whole model together. Big thumbs up for this model.
Nice build. If you want to weather them, I find the Spectrum range of alcohol based marker pens work really well, especially the warm and cool greys. Running the palest one over the white cut edges really blend them in, and holding the pen on the back lets the colour leech through. Paul
I echo all the replies above ! A few tips for building Scalescenes kits... Box cutting knives aren't too bad for cutting 2mm thick card, but a scalpel with a new blade is best. I usually make four passes when cutting 2mm card, adding a little more pressure as I go. Card really blunts knife blades quickly and if you keep a piece of 400 grit wet and dry paper hand, you can buff up the blade to a nice shape edge fairly easily, extending its life. Another tip is to spray the printed sheets (both sides) prior to building the model, except for the base sheet with all the door/window apertures printed on. the reason is that it protect the paper a little more and avoids any glue leakage spoiling the print. Once the model is complete, I spray the model again at least twice to make sure any cut edges are sealed. This is really important if you are planning on ballasting right up to the base of the model. Paul mentioned the Spectrum pens for weathering. Chalk pastels work really good too. Don't forget to seal the model again if you have applied powders/chalks. Cheers, Gary.
Great build! What's the best stuff to use for spraying / sealing the model? I've tried Humbrol matt acrylic spray and that has left horrible white patches on card models in the past. I've bought some matt clear coat from an art shop at the weekend and will give that a go with a bit of thinners and see how I get on....... I'll test it first on some offcuts. Does anyone else recommend a matt spray for card models? Thanks, Andrew.
I used a matt varnish spray on my paper after printing on both sides then again covering windows when I have finished building the model.
In Australia, I use a clear matt sealer that comes in an aerosol : https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=Boyle Clear Matt Spray&redirectFrom=Any This is a similar product from B&Q : https://www.diy.com/departments/valspar-clear-matt-sealer-spray-0-4l/182969_BQ.prd Don't use a gloss finish, always aim for matt ! Cheers, Gary.
I use a brush on satin clear varnish, thinned with a small amount of water, and add one drop dishwashing liqide, for flow. It's non toxic and dries to a water resistant finish. Usually give three coats, it's call LENI by Boyle. Will take on Gary's advice and give a coat of clear to the prints before assembly. Phil from Australia
I have used a matt spray sealer for artists on mine, but when I did my platform for Lazarus I over sprayed that with matt auto spray to prevent the ballast glue getting at it. If you use that, several thin/light coats are best as a heavy coat sometimes dries shiny. Cheer's, Pete.