Resin Printers - Wash & Cure - Is it Right for Me?

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Jim Freight, Mar 17, 2023.

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  1. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi, I know there is quite some knowledge here regarding these printers so I have a couple of questions.

    1) I have so far been put off by the potentially messy/hazardous side of the process when it comes to the wash and cure stages but I was just viewing a YouTube video titled "Anycubic - Photon Mono + Wash & Cure 2.0 - Unbox and Setup" which makes me wonder otherwise.



    Do you use the "wash & cure" unit, and if so is it any good?

    2) Also is the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K suitable for printing small parts, e.g. for gears and such like for 4mm scale models.

    Jim:)
     
  2. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    I have been considering one of these printer models myself, so will be very interested in the answers to Jim's questions as well.
     
  3. Vinylelpea

    Vinylelpea Full Member

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    3d resins are very smelly and gloves must be worn. I use water based resin that washes up with water, so it's fairly easy to clean everything. I just use a bit of metho for final wash of the vat and fep. Water based resin is still very smelly. I keep my 3d printer in a outside shed, and leave door open when printing. Once printing I only enter the shed to check printing progress. As for curing I live in Australia, so 10mins in the sun does the job. I don't use the curing stations as I personally don't find them necessary.
     
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  4. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Jim,

    I have the older Mono, a Mono X and a Wash and Cure. Is the Wash and Cure any good, I would describe it as essential for the process which can get a bit messy. Gloves and face mask are essential, I also have a pair of the Anycubic filters, which sit inside the printer cover and reduce the smelly nature of the process. The other thing not essential but really useful is a decent sized food box.

    My process which was recommended to me by Paul Lancaster is:
    Printer using the Mono or Mono X
    First wash using IPA in the food box using a soft haired paint brush. This removes a lot of the resin gunk and helps keep the IPA in the Wash and Cure relatively clean. I use used IPA from the Wash and Cure.
    Second wash in the Wash and Cure.
    Then remove the support structure (this could be done post cure)
    Finally back in the W&C to cure the print.

    The mono build plate fits into a W&C 2 so you don't need to remove the print from the build plate to wash it. I usually remove prints before washing but not always. When asking about printers Paul recommended getting a Mono X, I bought a Mono and a couple of months later bought a Mono X. The Mono is great for small parts/wagons etc but ultimately restrictive the Mono X gives you much more flexibility so think about it before buying. Should say I'm printing 7mm wagons etc not 4mm.
     
  5. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Thanks Phil, at times we would get insufficient bright light during the UK summer.
    I seem to have a jargon/terms issue here, please explain what vat, fep, and etho are :scratchchin:

    Jim
     
  6. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Thanks Mossy, you confirm it is certainly not for the feint hearted or the sensitive noses :rolleyes: and from what I hear and see a well ventilated shed/garage is a must to avoid the smell and damage due to any spillages.

    I keep swinging on this, I have somewhere I could do this once I clear some space which is filling up with never going to be useful one day stuff :redface:

    There doesn't seem much difference in price for the two printer sizes, they are still something like a tenth of the price of higher resolution filament printers, when looking at something established with more like industry standard nozzles, the da Vinci although works well uses their own design extruder/nozzle assembly which is 0.4mm only.

    Alternatives which are an enclosed unit with filtration like the Ultimator 2+ Connect would be a £ ouch option, it is supplied with what appears to be (light) industry standard nozzles down to 0.25mm and up to 0.8mm for bulkier less detailed prints, a 0.15mm is available for those daring tinker/tweakers from nozzle manufacturers, but I digress. :hammer:

    Back to resin, couple more questions, which are a bit like "how long is a piece of string" and really depends on how often you use them.

    1) do you leave the resin in the tray on the printer between jobs or is that asking for trouble if it goes off.
    2) similarly do you leave the IPA in the wash & cure while it is still good enough to use.

    Jim :)
     
  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    IPA stays in W&C until I decide it is so dirty it needs changing. It's then decanted into a gallon container and stored to be used in the food container, which by the way gets changed far more often.

    Resin, I tend not to leave it in the vat, it is decanted into a spare bottler via a funnel and filter paper. Leaving it a day or so isn't a problem as long as its a darken room don't let sunlight get to it.

    Another little tip, assuming the mono4K uses the same resin vat as the mono, replacement FEP's from Anycubic are roughly £15 for two. I got fed up coughing that much up so bought a Sovol resin vat £22 from Amazon, their FEP (again from Amazon) is their replacement FEP are far cheaper £18 for 5. so it only needs a short while to cover the cost of the VAT. FEP's need replacing periodically or when damaged. Back to your resin question, the Sovol tank comes with top and bottom covers so you can store resin in the tank and block out completely and day light. I used occasionally used them for a week or so but no longer. I just wish they provided a tank for the Mono X as changing FEP on it is a messy and time consuming job.

    It sound like your almost about to join the black art clan on here. :avatar:
     
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  8. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Thanks Mossy, teetering on the edge, I'd prefer fine resolution with filament printing and specific plastics, rather than resin based, but the equipment cost difference is also very wide, more than 10x more expensive to go the filament route at least when compared to resin based systems, not sure how much my flexible friend will bend!

    Jim :scratchchin:
     
  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    If your looking to just print gears, get a smaller printer.. the one you talk about is like using a sledge hammer size wise to crack the nut.. unless your wanting to do 50 in one print!

    what do you want to do long term?

    the other option is to look for someone else to print the items, I’ve recently put my own works in touch with a local 3D printer as he wanted some adapters for monitor screens for the controllers for a drone. He had asked if I could do it, but knowing what outdoor rigours it would be facing with less than careful hands some times, I suggested looking at someone who could print ABS or similar, thankfully they were 5miles away from HQ so I suggested a 1 to 1 visit and tell them what you need..

    There is also shapeways, and iMaterialise as two big printing firms but be aware of possible import costs now to the UK.

    or ask Mossey:avatar:
     
  10. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Well it's always easier when you can specify what you want to do and then shop for a specific tool, but at the moment, the what I want to do is quite varied.

    Currently I am spending quite a bit of time viewing reviews on YouTube of various machines, then looking up suppliers.

    Long term, I want to design and make a variety of items related to my railway, functional and scenic.

    I have not got the patience to outsource the manufacture elsewhere.

    I certainly look towards smaller components and scenic items for 4mm scale for a second printer, the da Vinci I have is quite good for a range of 1:1 and 1:76 items I am looking to print but I feel restricted to only a 0.4mm nozzle which is a tad limited for finer work.

    Trouble is smaller printers do not necessarily map to being capable of finer details, but then I may just looking at the wrong category of machines :whatever:

    I'll get there, I usually do in the end :headbanger:
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2023
  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    not sure how you mean? Saves on failures and cleaning etc. many times what you get is ready to post. Just means it may be a day or two rather than a few hours.
    The one bit to watch for is minimum tolerances. You may find that when you can print a part that is 0.4mm thick you may find that one of the companies wants it 0.6mm thick so it survives the clean up process.
    Andy
     
  12. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Thanks, that could be crucial, almost defeats the usefulness of getting the item printed for you :scratchchin:
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Sometimes the on line tests (like shapeways provide) are actually a god send..

    Mind you, it still doesn’t mean it will
    Print even if it passes. You can’t always print it to scale as if you did, there may not be the strength in it. choose your material wisely.
    See mossey and Dundee’s comments re crasftsman, ABS or standard resin.
    Andy
     
  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I've tried going down too .25 and its to fragile, the support legs on the S4 Hopper were beefed up from .25 to .35 and that did the trick, so rule of thumb from now .35 as a minimum. There's no point being accurate to scale and the print being impractical to use.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2023
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  15. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Well none of our models especially down to 1:76 can be really that fine, we wouldn't even be able to pick them up without crushing them, even if the prototype material was 1/2 inch thick steel, we'd still crush it like handling aluminum foil. :lol:
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Guys

    My two penneth

    I have 4 resin printers and a filament printer (unused since getting my first resin printer).
    The resolution of the resin printers takes 3D printing to another level for hobbyists, the detail is amazing. Another advantage of resin over filament, is the resin printers print a layer at a time. If you can 16 models on the build plate then it takes the same time to print 16 as 1, whereas a filament printer prints each model layer one at a time so would take 16 times longer to print.
    Unless you are purchasing an RGB based printer for a very good price, then pick a mono printer, they are faster and the screen lasts longer than an RGB screen.
    Printer size kinda depends on what you want to make. O gauge modellers should start with a 9" screen, this will allow you to print a 9ft wheel base wagon

    Resin and washing.

    First up - you have to wear Nitrile gloves - latex are no use the resin can pass through. This is an issue for me as my skin don't like the nitile gloves. To overcome this I use cotton gloves as a liner and buy the next size up Nitrile gloves. I also get the cotton sleeves which have a hole for your thumb to pass through. So togging up sleeve, then cotton gloves and finally the Nitrile gloves.

    Resin and contaminated wash water cannot be put down the drain, they need to be disposed correctly. That covers both the Normal resins - normally washed with IPA, and water washable resins.

    I use a four stages in cleaning - drain off excess resin, first bath, second bath, third bath wash n cure station.

    A drain container - approx 7" x 11" x 3" (180 x 280 x 75mm) food container, this is big enough to stand my build plate in both landscape and portrait directions. The build plate is placed in the container and allowed to drain the excess resin from the print.

    First bath - IPA plus 1" brush used to clean off as mujch of the resin as possible. Normally parts are now removed from the build plate - my wash n cure station is not big enough to take my Mono X build plates.

    Second bath - IPA in a Systema Pickle container - These can be given quite a stir, and the lid prevents leakage. Parts are done in batches.

    Third bath - Anycubic Wash n Cure, the original version, parts are given at least one 6 minute clean. For smaller parts that would not remain in the mesh basket, I use a alternative method. I have an Ultrasonic Cleaner, the small parts are put in a lidded glass jar (Jam jar) filled with IPA - enough to cover the parts and sink the jar onto the Ultrasonic cleaners basket. The liquid in the cleaner will help to keep the IPA heating up.

    Parts are left to dry.

    Any holes that need to be drilled out I tend to do before curing as the resin is more brittle once cured.

    Cleaning fluid treatment / disposal

    Contaminated wash water will need to be taken to the local authourities for disposal.

    IPA on the otherhand can be disposed of by evaporation (leave on the window sill outside) - not the method I use, taken to the local authourity disposal site or treated - the method I use.

    I purchased a water sterilizer - basically boils water, then condenses it back to pure water.
    This has a user settable temp.
    IPA boils at 82.6C. By setting the boiling point to 90C the contaminated soup will heat up to approx 84C, IPA will evaporate and condense in the collection jug. In the heat vessel you will be left with all the uncured residue as a solid in the bottom of the vessel. I now add some water to the soup, so i'm left with a sludge. This can be left out to cure in daylight or under a UV light. Once cured can be disposed of as normal.
    The IPA is clear and ready for use again. There is a lot of lost IPA in the process. And from experience not a job to be done indoors, I now to batches of 5 litres of contaminated IPA and usually get about +3 litres back. I pick a dry day and set up in the back garden, takes about an hour and the fumes are not pleasent.

    Curing
    I tend to cure the models in 2 or 4 min blasts. Try to keep the temp rise of the model to within a few degrees, too big a rise in temp can cause the models to split.

    As a point of interest, both my O scale Highland Railway Timber wagon and Passenger tank loco, have printed without issue as 4mm models, by just rescaling the model by 57% within the slicer program. Mossy and myself have been printing wagon number plates, which are easily read.

    Just as with filament printers you need to select the correct filament or resin for the job. We are now getting a wider variety of resins with unique properties - ABS like resins, Tough resins, high temp resins and flexible resins, helping us overcome some of the issues with brittle parts, or making masters for mould making.

    Paul
     
  17. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    A good few pounds worth of detail there Paul. :worship:

    Thank you for the time you spent to write all that, I am sure that info will also be very useful to other members as well as towards my decision process, filament vs resin.

    Do I take it you do this professionally?

    Certainly from what I see and here that the detail and finish possible with quite modestly priced equipment especially when compared with filament printers of somewhat lower print resolution is absolutely stunning. Forty+ years ago when I did not need glasses let alone an eye glass to see objects 50mm away I would still fit details I could only see close up, as the next decade passed, well at least I know the detail is there even if I cannot easily see it, fast forward to now, oh dear. :oops:

    I work in 1:76 scale, 00 gauge, and very lucky that I still have quite steady hands, well for an hour or so maybe before they get muscle cramps, with sufficient magnification aids I can still build and paint quite small details, however my ability to be clumsy has become noticeably tedious at times, not all the time but I have my moments.

    Whether wearing glasses or not objects move, jump sideways or spill over in a blink of an eye, even at breakfast this morning after my initial read of your detailed reply above, coffee jumps out of my mug across the table, luckily not all of it but enough to warrant scampering out to the kitchen for a cloth before it ran off onto the carpet.

    When I start to downsize my railway I will first trade in all my contemporary stock, and then just run my vintage fleet of almost indestructible Dublo and Trix until I fall into the compost heap and recycle myself :avatar:

    Increasingly I notice detail when something cracks under my fingers :facepalm:

    So, aspects which now have significant influence on my decision process of resin vs filament are mostly age related o_O ...

    1) If I can't see it with basic glasses, It is not worth fitting, this now includes lettering and numbers on rolling stock, my remaining 1977 wagons under construction will only be painted, and lets face it my r-t-r vintage stock has very limited numeric detail as made. My cement works is quite fragile due to all the pipework, handrails and overhead conveyors and requires much care to clean the track, attend to a hesitant loco or troublesome wagon coupling. There was much more detail I could have applied but it would not last long so I restrained myself.

    2) I no longer trust myself with chemicals that when spilled are hazardous to handle unless absolutely necessary around the house or garden, it's bad enough dealing with spillages of modelling paint or super glue :faint:

    3) I am getting into 3D printing at last while I still have enough active brain cells, however I do enjoy the challenge of repairing items especially if they were not meant to be repaired and creating things whether they be of software, hardware or a combination.

    In which case as I do not intend to set up a business to sell my prints, although I would happily upload to Thingiverse or similar if there is any interest from this community in my future projects, otherwise they are just for me, so no point in detailing beyond what I can 'notice'. I believe I can live with the lower detail possible with filament printing and certainly live without all the chemical handing.

    4) Although filament printing technology (I can afford) cannot match the detail and strength of injection moulded plastic components I can at least use more specific materials for different tasks.

    When I bought the da Vinci printer years ago it was one of the first to offer many useful features for a 3 figure sum, and despite it's long hibernation it actually works quite well and is solidly built, it's downside is the proprietory hot end which includes a 0.4mm bore nozzle for which XYZ Printing do not supply an alternative. Materials are limited to ABS and PLA, which was very good then but also limiting now.

    If I can use a much smaller nozzle even 0.2mm (0.15mm is available) for printers using a industry standard nozzles and combine that with more advanced slicing software that can reduce the diameter of the extruded material further then I should be able to print at sufficient resolution for my eyes to be content :whatever:

    The downside is nozzles that small can clog much easier, so it's not all plusses, but I still need some challenges :headbanger:


    After spending much time on YouTube and posing questions on here and getting many useful replies I am going the filament route, my flexible friend is about to get a nasty shock as I go for an education / light industrial Raise3D printer to use alongside my da Vinci.

    SKIVERs rule, Ok! (thanks for that acronym Paul)

    Thanks for all the useful assistance guys, much appreciated, as I progress my 3D thread you will find out whether it was my biggest folly to date or not.

    :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2023
  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Jim,

    We are all amateurs just happy to help where possible. On the dark side of Platform 1, Paul is the Emperor, Andy Sollis is Darth Vader, Rob, myself and others are mere cogs in the great wheel of life. :avatar:
     
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  19. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    As a tooth, I may aspire to be a cog one day :headbanger:
     
  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Jim

    I think we are all on various parts of the multiple learning curves involved in 3D modelling.
    For upgrading the hot end, have a look in thingyverse E3D V6 drop in replacement for da vinci printer and the Replacement Replacement extruder.
    You may also need to test various suppliers of filament to find one that has particulates in the resin that will pass through a 0.15 / 0.2 dia nozzle. Followed by the obliquitory recalibrations to head heights, feed rates and tempretures. We think our extruders are bad, in part of my previous life I was a quality technician with a well known tyre manufacturer, where we used feedback loops to keep the thickness of the product to within 0.1mm. All the more difficult due to shrinkage during cooling, ahh those were the days.

    I agree with you on the chemicals, non of them involved are particularly healthy, and even with great care still worry me. Anyone under the illusion of the harm these resins can do, on the two Mono X printers I have, the phenolic resin handles on the retaining screws for the build plate and one of the vat retaining screws have cracked and fell apart. For those that can't remember phenolic resin, it is a thermoset resin often called Bakeolite, used for mains plugs, bowls etc etc, generally taken to be hard.

    It is not my intension to discourage people from 3D modelling, but a great deal of care is required in the printing process - resin or filament. You can get burns from either chemical or physical.
    However the model design process is definately well worth the learn, and you may get tempted to either print your own, or get them printed by one of the print houses.

    And I get to put all the effort into making the first model, and then can relatively cheaply make and more importantly quickly. If I worked at it I could print off a couple of dozen O gauge wagons in a 24 hour period - I may need to sleep for the next couple of days to recover.

    Oh I forgot, I carried out a major productivity upgrade to my Mono X printers, I purchased a spare build plate for each printer. This allows me to drain the prints into the drainage container (the resin is strained and returned to the in use bottle), fit the second build plate and start the next print.

    Good luck in your adventures into the Dark side oh Padawan :avatar:

    Paul
     
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