Hi On several of the recent 3D printing threads, the issue of resin type selection to suit the application has been raised. This video may give a bit of data to help aid in the decision making process. The author has used Sunlu resin, influenced by these being some of the cheapest resins currently available. Three types used Standard (approx £21/kg), ABS-Like (approx £22/kg) and PA-like (or Nylon like - approx £32/Kg). For me, I currently use Anycubic DLP Craftsman resin for detailed bodied models, and Anycubic ABS like for running gear, coupling hooks, W irons, buffers - basically anything that may be handled or may impact with other items. Paul
As the Sunlu resin was mentioned - I've not tried it yet But hear is a different more empirical review of the Sunlu Standard resin His exposure settings as mentioned in the video were the same settings as he used for Anycubic resins - and you can see from the final prints they are not correct. Here is his take on determining the correct exposure setting. The general principles are well explained. I have a seperate profile in Chitubox for each printer / resin combination. As a side note thicker resins (e.g. DLP Craftsman) normally need a higher print temp whereas thinner resins will print at slightly lower temps. My Craftsman resin wont print at less the 18C and even then I'm chaning it, whereas the ABS like has printed down to 15C. Paul
Paul You are quite correct about needing temps in the high teens when using Craftsman. Kathy Millat recommends warming resin before using regardless of the temperature. Kind regards Geoff
Geoff Paul and myself have both separately evolved and use the same method of warming resin. We pre heat the build plate in hot water, then lower the build plate to home and let the heat equalise between the plate and resin (5 mins sems enough) before starting the print running. Simple but effective.
I know have an additional issue / problem, the M3 Max has an external resin tank, which even if preheated will cool down during a print. So far this ahasn't been an issue as the tank is only auto filled with a set amount of resin every 5 mins - amount and time ajustable from the front panel - another parameter to play around with . Now this is not turning into a Music thread, but worth a look at is - ThermalVATBAND This company produces thermal strip heater / controller that attaches to the outside of the vat (also a version for heating bottles as well). Trying to get info on the onesw required for my Mono X's and M3 Max Paul
Being a pseudo-jock I hope you ordered it from a UK distributor and avoided the extortionate shipping prices from good old yankey doodle land. Of course you did, didn't you?
Nah went full stars and stripes, had issues putting the order in, they have just installed a new security system, and is so good even they don't pass , welcome to our old world. The large version for the M3 Max (TVB-V321) needs the 5A supply, but not supplied in a bundle version. The Mono X uses the TVB-V2. From the few installation videos I watched before buying - there's something new - Looks like the tape covers approx half the vat, in extreme cold conditions you can fit a second band and use a splitter and share a power supply. This will give an easy upgrade if required in the winter and one band cannot maintain the temp. Also ordered up a bottle heater. Paul
Actually, the other way round, my son has been "nipping my heid" for some time about my working environment, particularly working in the fumes from both IPA and the print resin, this will allow the extraction to run all the time, without having to run the radiator and chucking all that heat out of the window. The radiator can now be used as either a foot warmer, or build another insulated box and keep the resin in. Current using an old unpowered fridge to stor my resin in. Will post up a proper thread for the warmers when they arrive. Paul
Paul I got temped and order 2 heating bands and a power splitter, same as yours but from the UK distributor Seven View Hobbies, cost just over £100, postage FREE! Are you going to cough up how much postage from Yankee Doodle Land cost you?
2 x TVB-V2 plus psu (one for each Mono X) 2 x 2 way splitters 2 x Bottle heaters 1 x TVB-V321 for M3 Max 1 x 5A PSU Came to $264.42 or £217 after PayPal conversion. I had several issues during the order process, and they have waved to shipping cost. I went for 2 bottle heaters as the M3 Max has a reserve bottle to keep refilling the vat, so 1 of the splitters for that and the Vat heater, the other to preheat the topup resin for the other printers. I will still use the hot water bath for pre-heating the resin and build plates before printing. I still have the left hand door to buils, this will have three of 9 x 3 vents in the lower part of the door, so the expelair left running and will draw the air diagonally across the cabinet. Paul
Oh and an extra PSU to use with the second splitter to heat the bottle warmer(s). Just had confirmation my order is on its way - wonder if its a world cruise or a flight. A carrier pidgeon may need a very long lead to use them to keep it warm.
Mine arrived early this morning, two power bands and the power supply. The 16" power band is sufficient to go along one long and one short side of the X2 resin vat, the only difficulties being getting past the mounting screw cut out. Then on to test resin heating, using my normal process I prewarmed the build plate using bath hot water and a little boiling water and lowered into the resin where it was left for 5 mins to let the temperatures equalise between the plate and resin. The little tacky thermometer register 24 ish before I powered up the band, from there it to about 10 mins to register 30. A test print is running now. Well at least it works and if it reduces problems will be a neat if slightly expensive solution, though colder temperatures would be a better test.
