An NSR Absolute Block instrument

Finally we got around to some wood cutting!!!




thought rather than photos we could have a video.

John helped with the cutting, it’s his tools. First is cutting an inch off the backs of the two side panels to bring it almost flush at the rear.





Then we measured up and took 71mm off the top. This then brings them to the correct height to make the tapered tongue and grove fit in the top panel.

before we attempted the cuts (which are still to do) I flipped the off cuts and drew out the cut on these and did a trial tun.


Drawn out


and cut.. (yes that is a Triumph TR7 behind)


trial fit. It’s deliberately over size for further trimming if needed.

and finally from the side.

I’ll get some better shots of the reworked parts soon.

Andy

 

Part of the joy of using an original box and cutting down is despite it being taller and deeper, much was still to the same specs as my smaller NSR block. There must have been some standard fitment as I guess.

the side walls have a small rebate in them for a snug fit up to the back panel. As can be seen here. Although we have taken an inch off the back, the overlap here is still the same so no adjustment was needed.



You can see the step in the panel here.


and again proving a point, the hooks are original on my base, yet still match the screws to secure on the inside of the CR box panels.
Moving on whilst I can’t cut wood, I began a little more cleaning on the instrument. I had had a few looks but couldn’t at first see how the needles came off. Once the two securing brackets with a small bearing in had been removed, the needle and the circular fitment to the rear (it’s like an armature with no windings in shape) were still stuck through the large front plate. I’d asked Peter about it, but he wasn’t sure. I thought on a previous inspection it appeared the needes were held on by a circlip, but looking today it’s actually a very small bolt and washer in one. A gentle twist with some small needle nosed pliers and it spun away and the pointer dropped off allowing it all to come away.


I also removed the solenoid for the latching of the pointer to TRAIN ON LINE. Otherwise the current state of the needle would swing it to LINE BLOCKED.



These items are now being gently cleaned before refitting.

however before they both go back on, I will do a scan of the front so we can try and create details for transfers to replace the damaged markings.. hopefully this may help mossy??

 

The second needle pointer has been removed and a clean up commenced. I tried Rob’s suggestion of White Vinegar.. think I may need to buy some more. Had better results with this suggestion, although it’s slightly more messy.


I’ve also took a flat bed scan of the front but the file at 400dpi is too big to add on here sadly.
It has been pointed out though that the font for the text for the up and down lines is different to other models. It appears I have a slightly more modern text on mine.
So it’s a case now of not only creating artwork for the 3 panels to have the recreated but also the lettering for the up and down. (That said, plan was to paint strip it all anyway and start afresh- although myself, only the W in DOWN looks narrower. The rest looks the same to me but just in a slightly closer location to the needle centres.)

 

Today we have cut the top tapers to fit into the top… it’s all starting to come together.





These were test fit photos.. there was a little more taken off one of the front uprights so it matched the side.

sadly I must have made an error when cutting one of the sides as it’s very loose. Never mind, the front panel when secured will make it square and strong as will the screw down from the top panel..

we have noted that the bottom front panel is too shallow for the NSR block. In the next photo I have reduced the length of the original CR part to fit the new width. Just to keep it square for now. The top edge should meet the bottom of the arch sections but clearly is short.


It needs around 5mm. The top also needs making to match. And then refit the trim which has been removed. One part to repair as it had a split in it, so it’s being glued and clamped as we speak (this was the one where the tack had gone the wrong side of the wood). The other is the front trim, which oddly was already in two parts, so it’s just a cut to make here again to trim it down to size to fit.

more progress soon.

andy

 

Gormo.
I went and bought some shellac from the shop
- tried it on one of the old pieces which had been cleaned back. Gave it 6 coats and it looked about right. May need more.. but couldn’t decide it best wiped on with a cotton cloth or brushed?
What’s your thoughts ??

andy

 

Polish between layers? Or polish at the end?

 

What with?
Wax? Furniture polish?? What do you suggest please?

 

It’s not even been stripped yet (only the top panel.) Plan is to shellac it, giving it a few coats to gain the dark original colour.

I’ve been trying to get the panels right to fit first, then clean them up and reassemble.

 

All noted and taken on board..
No wax and no aerosol polishes will be used.
However, some bits need to be taken back as the CR box sections don’t match (looks like they have been wood painted at some stage)

there is also colour variation in the bottom original parts through wear and tare. (It’s amazing the colour difference between inside and outside too, so it’s suggests it’s been used in a box that had good sunlight!