BR Standard Class 4 Loco Build

Now the main water intake funnel also needed some modifications since there was no way I was going to drill a 0.9mm hole down each side of the casting to take the scoop stays. Instead I removed the unwanted white metal form and replaced it with more of the hollow micro tube soldering two short sections into place, one on each side of the scoop tunnel, then inserted nickel wire forming the support stay rods for the scoop. The two thin flats in parallel fixed to the water collector shoe are the drop bars which raise or lower when water is needed to be taken on board on the move.

And a picture of the scoop in the lowered position.

Finally now I'm off to get this assembly soldered on underneath the tender frame... a couple more pics later tonight. Thanks everyone for looking in on this build.

 

Yes indeed Daniel they do and when you add in the costs and value of kits / materials involved it becomes frightening. |Any chance of some pictures of you boxcar project please ?
York Paul

 

Well that's one fiddly bit done, I think a large part of the "fiddle" is down to rough castings that for all intent and purpose are lop sided so no matter how much I tried I couldn't get a balanced appearance to the scoop assembly as I set it up in the frames for soldering. Anyway I'm reasonably happy and since the most that will ever be seen is a side on profile I don't think its worth anymore messing with.

And a view from the other angle.

 

A side on view now with the sub frame sitting on track, I think maybe for other Scorpio builds I will more likely want to replace some of the poorer castings with more exacting ones as Steve suggested earlier. Dreaming on I'd quite like to do the Class 2 Mickey Mouse kit when it comes out. So the final phase on the tender sub frame is to part paint around the axle supports then I can do a final fit of the wheels add the brake rigging and brake hangers then paint the sub frame before moving on to the tender body... looks like I'm going to start rivet counting with the embossing press over the next few days or so.

 

Thanks Pete, I had to look twice to see where you meant as well and empathize with the frustration when something moves out of true, maybe I am too pedantic and worry too much over this kind of thing happening after all it is hand built to a greater extent and not something constructed in a factory using computer controlled functioning tools. Anyway nice picture of your Andrew Barclay build, is this one from Agenoria then Pete ?
Paul

 

Wow Pete that's a lovely loco I'll go have find your build thread and have a perusal through.

 

So last evening I turned attention to the front bogie, the instructions in the Scorpio kit are quite vague and to be fair it doesn't need much working out what to do as long as the bogie frame spacing is set correctly. To do this Scorpio suggest cutting two lengths of 1.5mm rod (provided in the kit) at 24mm lengths and soldering into the frame sides as the start point, I found inner wheel clearances could be better achieved without binding and thus risk of shorting if this length was reduced to 23.7mm and checking widths with the calipers confirmed this correct. After the usual checking for squareness and fitting and refitting wheelsets I decided to scratch a completely new bogie pivoting box from scrap etches as the offering provided in the kit made no sense whatsoever and looked for all the world like a brass Red Cross sign. Now I'll revisit the bogie pivot later after the main frames have been constructed to see if any springing is needed to keep the bogie on the rails and also if there is a need to elongate the pivot hole to allow for good clearance through tighter radius curves.

And just for good measure here is another shot of the tea mug.

 

Toto I just wondered if the title of this thread could be changed to read BR Standard Class 4 loco build?

If not then it doesn't matter.

 

Thanks Toto think it describes the thread better.

 

Thanks again Rob ... could I find the edit tool could I heck

 

Well this evening I started some preparation work on the main frames, the compensation beam pivot hole was drilled out to accept the brass pivot stud using a 2.4mm drill bit and axleways scribed for elongating the bearing travel with the beam swing. One important marking up job had to be done prior to filing the holes out, I used the existing bearing holes on one frame side to fit the driving wheels to scribe an outer flange mark so that sprung pick ups could be fitted. From the wheel centre line I marked and punched a mark 1.5mm inwards of the outer flange then taped the both frame sides together using gas tape.

All holes for the sprung pick up sleeves were drilled out so both frames had identical hole positions, I'm going to locate the pick ups behind the brake hangers so that the plastic flange of the sprung pick up is hidden from view, because of the position of the compensation beam next to the brake hanger on the rear driving wheel set I drilled the pick up hole in a different place on the frame up under where the cab will be.

 

Then removing the tape and reaming out the holes and filing away all burrs I built up the sprung pick ups and tested them for clearance. The next job will be to elongate the axleways on the main frame to accept movement of the compensation beam, once this is done the beam and its pivot stud can be permanently located.

Anyway that will be tomorrow nights job and then the frames will have to wait for the new jig to arrive before going any further.

 

After opening the axleway holes on the main frame of the centre and rear driving wheels by 0.5mm in the longitudinal I set the beam arrangement dry using the small brass pivot stud checking for alignment.

The next stage was to add a fillet of paper (I used a junk mail flyer advertising Spec Savers ) between the beam and main frame as clearance and to stop solder accidentally seeping onto the beam and seizing it solid.