Class 24 build... oh no not another Stoke engine.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by York Paul, Jul 11, 2018.

  1. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Earlier on today I started putting together the next set of sub-assemblies which are the bogie equalizing beams, these roughly resemble an I beam with oblong cut outs down the centre. There are four of these and I've just completed the first one, the others are in various stages of construction. So here are the three so far, note there is a tiny triangular piece at each end on the main beam piece, these will be removed and soldered to the beam as they form a support for the primary springs. A bit later on I'm form the damper brackets which will go on the back of this beam but need to mark their location against the bogie side frame unit... more about that part of the build as we get there later on.

     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2018
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  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Here is the first completed equalizing beam fresh from being cleaned up, my rule shows just how small some of the supporting components are and of course the obligatory sealed bag awaits all suitable marked for parts identification when the time comes.

     
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  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    So these next few pictures of the equilizing beam construction are mainly for the benefit of members wishing to build this same loco, having soldered the top rib to the beam I then fashioned the lower rib to shape and tweaked it to ensure the pieces met nicely along the half etch slot underside of the rib.


    Before soldering the rib it may be wise to butt the rib end up firstly on the beam face, I used an engineers square to get the correct longitudinal alignment of the both pieces together.


    Then with a micro clip holding the fluxed rib in place I ripped along the seam with a 40 Watt chisel tip.


    Now the tiny triangular primary spring brackets can be placed into their slotted holes, I found the best way to keep these pieces true was to pre tin them firstly then press into place dry holding their position with the fine edge of an old Stanley blade. It was a case of a quick in out with a very hot running iron not dissimilar in going for an appointment at the Health Centre or Clinic whichever maybe the case...:lol::whatever:. My Atten 907 solder station fitted with a fine pencil tip performed admirably here and the result was a 90 degree fit which now only needed cleaning up.


    And here is another completed beam folks :drums: which means I'm now half way finished on this stage of the sub assemblies build. Photographed against my black marble base stone to prove the beams are not twisted or warped which thankfully they are not. This way of working can pretty much be applied to most of the other bogie etch segments where fine box structures need to be made forming fabrications and structures. I am using 145 degree solder on everything and have not had heat leaking onto already located pieces, a heat sink is essential along with a bowl of water to dunk hot pieces in.

     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2018
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  4. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Finally I've worked my way through Part 1 of a list of making much of the sub assemblies, the outstanding items yet to be made are the cab steps and water filler steps... I'll get back to these later but for now was eager to see the next step of the build shaping up.


    Today the 3' 9" wheelset packs arrived and these will need to have a ring of twelve 2mm holes drilled into the disc faces... so that makes 96 holes in total :facepalm: I'm still not sure whether to fit motors and delrin chains on each bogie or just the one. Has anyone got an opinion as to the advantages or disadvantages apart from the increase in traction.

     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
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  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Now then I have started forming the bogie side parts as per Part 2 of the kits build instructions. Now the bogie front face etch has a few very fine points and these can be weak spots so delicacy and extreme care are the order of the day. A second pointer is to double check the alignment of pieces before soldering, I had to undo one piece because I noticed I'd soldered it 05mm out of alignment. The top piece has to be curved above what will be the axlebox position and the front face needs to be folded to make the extrusion in four places, on the next picture the orange dots indicate the check points to watch for ensuring the correct alignment and the blue spots show where if this is properly done both etches at their respective ends will align correctly. Solder these items on the inside edges, at this point this component is still quite delicate and will not achieve full strength until the remaining pieces are added to complete the fabrication as a unit.

     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
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  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Wish I could advise York Paul. Unfortunately it would be sheer guess work and opinion in my case but to be honest, I like the belt and braces approach which the twin drives will provide. Maybe it could be as simple as seeing how much of a problem the install proves to be. Try running with one first maybe. Would it be possible to retro fit the second if performance was lacking with one. If not ........ two it would be for me.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks for these indication marks York Paul. These will be very handy in the future. This is exactly where the value comes into having someone else blaze the trail comes in. All these little pointers mapped out throughout a trial build are invaluable. For me, these are " gateway " points that should be checked and passed before continuing by anybody following this build whilst constructing their own version of the kit.

    These bogies are common to a few of Steve's kits I think so the above will prove very handy. Thanks for the excellent guidance.

    Toto
     
  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm not sure this bogie can be retro fitted with delrins because once the outer bogie frame is built and the pivot bolster fitted the inner bogie frame containing motor and drives will be trapped in. I'm in half a mind to add both motors and delrins which will double the cost but potentially will deliver a damn good locomotive capable of running anywhere and pulling a good load. Now the next issue I have is where can you get delrin chains and cogs from. PRNRP prices are way over the top.
     
  9. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Well this bogie will certainly make all the production run 24's and 25's, so I guess once a couple have been built the whole process becomes nicely familiar. As you know I intend to make the 24/1, 25/1 and 25/3 in time. I'd like to do a MacRat if that Sulzer version becomes available in the future. Now we will have to see.
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hmmmm..... I think that's where I bought mine from but I think the likes of Roxey mouldings , tower models or Eileen empirium may bear fruit. If I find them in my travels I'll tip you the wink.

    Personally, I think you are making the correct decision. A few more sheckles but will return the favour in performance.

    Toto
     
  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I forgot ...... Try the easibuild website. They do DMU's in kit form and I'm sure they do Delrin drives ..... I may be wrong but worth a go.

    Toto
     
  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    You are correct Toto, I honestly cannot see the point in spending time making such a good kit then factoring in the additionals only to skimp on the cost of another 1833 motor/gearing and delrin set for another sixty or eighty quid or so.
     
  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm sure I looked at Easybuild the other day and couldn't see delrins for sale
     
  14. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Try swiftsixteen.co.uk I just seen Delrin chain and sprockets on there £10.00 a set. Don't know if that's good or bad.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  15. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just checked the above against PRMRP and if I am comparing apples with apples £10.00 is very good against the £15.00 that PRMRP are asking. :thumbs:
     
  16. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Right sorted :thumbup: cheers Toto two sets bought and page bookmarked for reference. Thanks for that,:tophat:
     
  17. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    No worries. I know I have seen other suppliers somewhere before. I'll post them up as I come across them. It may be worth starting some kind of index off with products and suppliers for ease of reference..... need to think on how best to do that but that's for another thread.

    Cheers for now
    Toto:thumbs:
     
  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    That is a very good idea and can offer another angle to the forum, I realise such lists are available on the web if you know where to look and also in various mags if you subscribe but I'm a bit lazy like that when it comes to searching for something.
     
  19. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Rob if I may take you up on that, however I can bring a wheel set along to Thirsk on the 29th to show you... would I still need to make a jig do you think? Each hole is 2mm dia of 18.5mm centres so presumably that equals each hole centre is located at 9.25mm from axle/wheel centre.
     

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