All wheel pickup for locomotives

Yes, I've done a few of mine, not too difficult and there are several different ways of doing it, depending on available space. On tender loco's, I've used a couple of Veroboard copper stripboards glued across the chassis, copper strips cut centrally to form 2 connections, and 2 lengths of brass wire soldered down the length of the chassis onto these strips to form two 'busbars'. You can then solder on phosphor-bronze pickup wire (Eileens Emporium/Hobby Holidays stock this) to bear on the backs of the wheels, then wire from the tender to the loco pickups. The only slight drawback is that the tender and loco are permanently joined, unless you use a small 2 pin plug & socket which can be glued under the tender. Alternatively, Alan Gibson does 'plunger pickups' which you may be able to fit to the tender chassis.
When it comes to adding extra pickups to a loco, I've never attempted to add pickups to a trailing truck, but leading bogies can sometimes be fitted using a similar method to the tender, or by supergluing on phosphor-bronze strips to the bogie frame, bearing on the wheel backs once again. Due the the lightness of most leading bogies though, you'll need to use decoder wire (very thin and light) or similar to link to the driving wheel pickups or you could have problems with the bogie derailing on curves. Basically, it's worth experimenting on a "Suck it and see" basis to find out what works on individual loco's, you've nothing to lose, and everything to gain, and other members may well have other useful suggestions you could try. Below is a pic showing use of 'plunger pickups' on my recently built "GT3" tender.
Keith.

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This pic shows how I made a frame to glue under a tender chassis on a recent kit build, using the stripboard and brass wire method outlined. You can see the 'whiskers' of phosphor-bronze wire which will bear onto the backs of the tender wheels.

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.....and here you can see the frame glued in place under the chassis, with the pickup wires bearing onto the tender wheel backs. Two wires were then taken from tender to the loco driving wheel pickups, resulting in loco and tender being permanently coupled, hopefully you get the idea of what I mean. All of this assumes that your loco/tender wheels are the insulated type, ie, not electrically connected to each other via an axle.
Keith.

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A good few of the later kits often have the option of cutting out the frame to fit hornblocks to create suspension, some older kits can be modified if you're careful, much easier on 7mm stuff than 4mm but it depends on how experienced as a chassis builder you are as it's not really recommended for a first build. Most modern kits usually have hornblock cutouts half-etched into the side frames which makes it easier as the marking out is already done for you.
Keith.