Class 24 build... oh no not another Stoke engine.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by York Paul, Jul 11, 2018.

  1. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Well as folk here may know I've bought an etch Class 24 kit from our latest sponsor Steve Beattie and today it arrived in the post along with a couple of Stater's wagon kits which I find difficult to resist. I really have way too many wagons than is good for me :avatar:... well that's what SWMBO keeps telling me. Anyway I digress, so in a word Steve's kit is superb in every way, its well designed, the etch is a good thickness and most importantly the instructions are comprehensive and easy to understand, these are all the signs that go towards an enjoyable loco building experience.

    So the loco I have decided to reincarnate is Stoke's 5D Sulzer Type 2 number D5018 in original loco green with small yellow warning panels... I'm sure you've all seen the picture posted on here. :avatar:Now I've been asked to offer a progressive account of the build so who am I to disagree with a directive from the top. Anyway here are the pictures of the contents unwrapped from out of the blue box. Firstly here's some of the body and frame etches.




    Now here are some of the bogie etches.


    Some white metal items, wire and the SKF bearing cover etches.


    The resin cast pieces and some 3D printed items which make up the cab interior and fuel tanks.


    The white metal cab roof pieces and a few other bits and bobs.

     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
  2. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Bring it on. :thumbs:
     
  3. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Now for the instructions, first a check list of what you get, this is important for two reasons, 1) it helps the seller pack all the right bits and 2) it helps the buyer check the contents on arrival. So don't bin this piece of paper as unwanted... put your own tick marks against the packers and you have peace of mind... much of the contents are tiny and easily lost if not kept safe if sealed bags.


    The kit comes with a twenty page instruction manual covering the bogie build, the body and frame build is a downloadable file which I already have.


    What really took my attention was the concise and clear nature of the instructions accompanied with easy to figure out diagrams, this is always a good sign in buying a kit because it says the designer has taken time to consider the builder. After all a builder shouldn't have to finish off the job of the design and pay for the privilege too... anyway 'nuff said about that topic of debate. :cool:

    So here are a couple of pictures of what I mean, now how good are these diagrams. :tophat::tophat::tophat:



    So that's it for now, I'm off to familiarize myself with the instructions, diagrams and the components. My best advice is to keep everything safe in sealed bags and only cut items from the etches as needed.:D
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
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  4. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    I just printed off the body and chassis build instructions and thought I'd share just how well these have been authored, here is a facsimile of what you get, the component list, the etch and castings map and the progressive coloured drawings. So that's my bedtime reading for the next few days.

     
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  5. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Go boy go
     
  6. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Let me read through the instructions first but I've still got the 4MT on the go and its creeping up to the time when it can see some paint... black paint then grime paint...:). From what I've read so far I think I'll start building up the bogies because once the fiddly stuff is out the way I can then gauge the correct buffing height and adjust as necessary when I put the main frame together. I know the bodyshell is the sexy bit but save the best till last as they say. Now Toto I've got buffers on order and need to order in wheelsets, motors and gearing.
     
  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    You've got his attention, but a trick I've learned is he is easily distracted - just aim him at ebay, he can't resist and you get thinking time :avatar:

    Looking forward to this build, as if I am to get a diesel in O then the 24/25 are prime candidates, I know, 26's or 29's, but for a 29 i'd have to have a siding to park it in awaiting being towed away :giggle:

    Paul
     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Cheers Dundee Paul but I've got to finish the 4MT first because I'm not falling into the trap of having unfinished projects everywhere. With the 4MT I'm at a stage where major body components can be soldered together as it all now all lines up as it should. The 24 is going to be an enjoyable build but not one to be rushed and I've also ordered a 25. You should get one of these kits because I think you'll be impressed and enthused to kit make at the next level... not that you arn't already of course :avatar:, me personally I'd have to really be tempted to buy a NBL MAN kit and you're probably correct a scrap line is the best place for them. I'm not scathing the 29 fans.
     
  9. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Will be watching with interest - best advice - go slowly. My kits are original and are not built along the lines of the old RJH ones...:thumbup:
     
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  10. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    another great thread awaits, I'm bating my breath :thumbup::thumbup:

    ian vt
     
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  11. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Cheers Steve will do, now I'm going to make a form to shape parts 19 and 24 into the correct U profile before I start, it will make a handy little tool particularly as bogie etches are the same for both classes of loco. So that's this evenings work along with a bit more on the 4MT.
     
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  12. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Thanks Ian, I am happy to hear you enjoy my build threads, the 4MT takes priority at the moment ... I think it will more than likely come together all at once. I'm really looking forward to building the 24 as this will be my first 7mm diesel build and somehow think it won't be my last. Another kit on the way is the Britannia from Scorpio, Pat Ennis said he would get it posted this week.
     
  13. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Keep us posted on your former York Paul. Ill be interested to see how this is employed and the benefit of developing it.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    I'm going to fashion them by laminating layers of Plasticard then gently creating the profile which can be taken against the etch parts, it will mean all the etch pieces will shape to the same profile and hopefully fit into the other etch piece for soldering. There are two different curved profiles ... so two different forms. When I'm done I'll post it up to you Toto and maybe Dundee Paul could see about printing some... just a thought.
     
  15. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hey ..... great idea ...... keep him busy. :avatar:
     
  16. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Paul,

    Are you going to use rolling bars to roll the etch and use the former to check the shape against as you roll it?
     
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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Hi Rob, These etch pieces are tiny... literally the etch wraps around an etch measuring 4mm x 4.5mm, so this evening I made a tiny hand held tool which can be supported in a vice also. Now I do need to buy a set of mini rolling bars because some of the roof panels require a curvature profile, also I could do with a set anyway. :)
     
  18. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    This evening I made this little former from laminates of white Plasticard, the tool is a hand or vice held item which assists in creating a profile for a tiny etch piece which has to slip over another tiny etch piece for soldering. The tool is a handy size measuring 4.5 cm x 3 cm and has an alignment stop to place the etch against thus ensuring the curveatures are always formed in the correct place every time. So here it is.

    The picture shows the edge profile on the top face and the micro clip is attached to the hand held extension the top edge of which acts as the alignment stopper.


    The former is also placed into my Proxxon vice using the lower tab (as seen in the previous photo) of the tool


    And here the tiny etch piece is having its curvature fashioned over the former. To give some idea of size the thickness of the former is just 4mm and the height from the alignment stop to the top edge is 4.5mm.

     
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  19. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Now here is the etches I'm working with, the main fret from the start point for the bogie build.


    And the micrometer with the etch piece turned in the fret for convenience.


    Finally here is the proof it all works, the two pieces soldered together and placed into a marked sealed bag for safety. Only another seven to go and then onto making another eight pieces with a slightly different profile... that means making another former tool.

     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    And finally to give an idea of just how tiny these components are here is the completed bogie item against a twenty pence coin, anyway that's it for the moment... I'll make up the other seven and then the next eight of a slightly different profile before moving onto the next step in the build.

     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
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