Class 27 From kit to completion.

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by York Paul, Jan 8, 2019.

  1. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    I just noticed 27 005 has the straight sided footsteps not the slanted one's so you'll need the update etch anyway.....I'll get onto that tomorrow.
     
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  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Ok then and thanks Steve... one aspect I had noticed was the many 27's modified with sideways sliding cab windows also had the secondman side droplights replaced to match as well. 27001 being another example.
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Paul

    Paul 26 here, Steve has sent me the updated files for the cab roof / headcode box, I will print up the new version at the weekend to send to yourself and Steve for test fitting and revised whitemetal casting.

    Paul
     
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  4. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    That's very nice, I'll let you know when they arrive:thumbs:
    Paul 27 :avatar:
     
  5. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    :facepalm:
     
  6. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    OK Wirework for replacement/extra parts sorted. Should be with the etching people Monday.
     
  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Ok so I don't intend to bombard our forum continually with heaps of pictures showing nondescript bits of loco but this ones are quite important as they represent the foundation stones for starting this loco kit. There are various sub assemblies which need dealing with firstly and to avoid confusion between Class 26 and Class 27 variants this next bit is important, now the chassis mainframe (part 1) is the starting point once sub assemblies are made, make sure this item is located ready for soldering on a flat stone and the correct way up. The correct way up is to have the half etch circumference edge line facing upwards. I fitted the buffer beam first, the bends were made using a pair of flat nose pliers positioned over the weakest point which is the buffer hole otherwise if you form this in a hold and fold you risk bending the front part of the etch by the buffer point. The picture shows the detail. Now the cross beam sub assemblies with their wraps are of three different types (Class 27 only) these items are parts 8 and 9 which is the only beam which hasn't a curved end, parts 14 and 15 which is shallower in depth and has a thinner wrap, this item goes at the end on Class 27 only. Finally there are five etches parts 23 and 24 which have curved wraps along with the thinner one used on the Class 27.


    This picture shows where sub assembly part 14 and 15 with thinner wrap goes, note the two slots close together on the right hand side, the outer slot takes part 14 and 15 (Class 27 only), the other slots are for the wider wrap beams (parts 23 and 24) and the cross beam without curved wraps (parts 8 and 9) is located in the fourth pair of slots from the left hand side.


    Ensure that solder does not block the draw hook and buffer openings but there is sufficient to hold the beam solid as this will add strength to the etch.


    Now part 2 consist of eighty eight small brackets which have to be laminated together, I found the best way to do this was to keep the parts on the fret and tin the inner faces but avoid getting tin to flow into the tiny slot of each piece.


    Then correctly align both frets together using croc grips checking to ensure they sit flat over each other, I used one of my black coloured marble flat stones as a visuall background to help get this right. Once satisfied I used my trusty Proxon micro flame to sweat the two frets together. The parts can be then be removed from the fret with a piercing saw... much easier than individually soldering each pair together forty four times.

     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019
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  8. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A good idea for the sweating there Yorkie. I'm a bit thick and would not have realised that advantage there. The micro flame also makes light work of the job as well. :thumbs: takes a lot of work out of the build.

    Toto:tophat:
     
  9. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Well to be honest Toto I just couldn't see how I could replicate an action 44 times with any real degree of accuracy... I've probably saved an extra two evenings work also not to mention retaining my sanity.
     
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  10. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'd agree there Yorkie. I must remember to use the same technique, saves an element of soul destroying work. :thumbs:
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
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  11. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Just ordered the new version 1833 motors for what will be 27005...so Delrin sets from Swift Sixteen and gearsets at 20:1 from Roxey Mouldings still to get then its stand by your beds and all hands on the pump for another epic diesel build. :thumbs::avatar:
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Here is how I have decided to form the outer faces of the mainframe, I'm posting this for the benefit of folk who have or who intend to build this loco. So once you separate the laminated Part 2 items from their fret a little tidy up is needed in the half housing notches on both Part 2 and the long edge beam Part 26 in order to make a comfortable square fit, at this stage don't mess with Part 25 the thin outer overlay as you run the risk of breaking it. Now there is also a Part 3 which are tiny triangle shapes but without the leg extension that fits into the beam, these tiny pieces are positioned in the third notch in from the ends just where the bogie stretcher beam fits (see kit instruction manual Figure 2.0) and also in the centre where a cross beam fowls the fitting point... more on this later with pics so don't worry if I've lost you. Now I didn't fabricate the bogie stretcher in its entirety what I did was solder one cross side piece Part 22 to each outer end position on the mainframe, this is because it is easier to locate Part 26 when dressed with Parts 2 into position along the half etch grove of the mainframe, Once both sides are treated then the bogie stretcher can be added and the tiny Part 3 pieces gently located in place.


    Here is how the bogie stretcher will look when finally fitted.


    And here you can see I have made a start on installing the laminated Part 2 pieces leaving the third half housing notch free for Part 3 to be added later.

     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019
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  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    now there are four units which comprise of Parts 4, 5, 6 and 7. Part 7 is hugely delecate so this is how I've started to fabricate this item. Carefully snip Part 7 from the fret but DON'T clean and trim this up because it will break, instead leave on any pieces of the fret and use these as holding levers in the solder process... see picture below. Start by tack soldering at the mid point where the tab and slot are.


    Once this is done gently form the outer rim shape of Part 7 around Part 4 using the fret legs as a positioning device, I held this tiny piece in position using a lollipop stick before soldering up.


    Finally, NOW you can clean the excess fret tabs away with a needle file because the fabrication has now gained some strength but please take care not to twist the newly formed outer edge (Part 7) out of alignment.


    That's all for now folks, next upload will be when the mainframe fabrication is complete and we move into the body frame skeleton build.
     
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  14. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Some really useful aids there Yorkie. These little triangular fillet prices could be a real PITA I think. However ..... sent to try. :avatar: I have not read the above in conjunction with the instructions yet but I will as it will be easier to follow. I think I will do 2 copies of the instructions and over write one set with modifications. Any tips added at the appropriate juncture in the build process can only help. It might even be better still if there are any images that could be added to illustrate any of these additional points of instruction.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Are these the loops the bogies sit in, to stop them coming away from the chassis (on the real thing)??
     
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  16. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Pass ..... over to those in the know. :avatar:
     
  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I don't have time right now cos its late to go into details but I've come up with a better way around fixing Part 2 pieces into the long side piece Part 26, which makes for a much flatter visual fit... otherwise it boarders on being too fiddly.
     
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  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Not sure yet Andy, they seem to be fixed to the side mainframe directly in front of the bogie stretcher beam... so I assume this bracket may have something to do with the bogies.
     
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  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    If it’s the square bit here, yes. There is a pin from the bogie sits in here, it stops the bogie coming off in the event of a detail.

    B54B3E3F-8D38-46DF-B6FE-6D5D2FF79E44.jpeg
     
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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    That's the one Andy... very fiddly but quite do-able with good light and a mag.:thumbs:
     
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