Class 27 From kit to completion.

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by York Paul, Jan 8, 2019.

  1. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    All I am going to do is snip away the excess which means I loose the outside set of five bolts on one side of the keeps, otherwise what would the time frame be for you to get me a set of modified etches ? Considering that we now have a Class 26 build on the books too I shall need double quantities. Shall I sent you a shopping list of all etch amendments needed ?
     
  2. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Best thing to do is snip the top part and rejoin it. The rivets are a feature.

    When you're happy there's nothing else I've managed to goof I'll compare notes and show on here the ammended parts....
     
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  3. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Fantastic problem solving guys :thumbs:
     
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  4. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Thanks but I'd rather there weren't problems in the first place. I was so carefull on that one - or thought I was.... :(
     
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  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Steve, the man who never made a mistake never made anything. These things happen...

    When I was modifying my signal box design for Paul, I came across 3 errors ! All now corrected. Wouldn’t have shown in the original print but caused issues when the printing method was changed.
     
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  6. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I very much appreciate your dedication to design but if I may say without causing issue you are always better with a proof reader and right now this test build is doing just that, my concern is that these issues are in the public domain for all to read. However having said that what we as a team are doing is showing just what effort and input is involved in getting a kit to market, if I may be so bold as to say currently the spotlight of attention is focused on me now to deliver a great end result. Even authors of books have proof readers to debug because very often an independent pair of eyes is what is needed. So onwards and upwards we go eliminating the niggles because ultimately this road test is an integral stage of the process. :thumbup: As for snipping Part 53 I think that won't work too good... I'm going to use my 4mm scale anvil embosser and press five new rivet heads in fine scale, but as I suggested the wirework needs altering to suit for production batches.

     
  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I wouldn't worry about the snags. That is the whole purpose of the build. Just make sure all issues are resolved going forward before releasing to the general public otherwise you will deservedly take threir scorn. Sounds fair. :thumbs:

    Keep it in mind .... this is a development kit and you are proving it's credibility. Identifying issues and building them out prior to release. There is not many would be so brave. Credit worthy i'd say.
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    And when all is said and done, many mainstream manufacturers will display an EP to press and public , yet admit, it’s not the final version, this or that needs tweaking etc. Accurascale? Recently did just this with their O scale HTO wagon.. they were not happy with the coupling and hook being underweight. They proudly posted the photos, but referred back to the “makers” to beef it up.

    Don’t worry Steve, were all here to support you, not let you fail.
     
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  9. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    That's ok guys I appreciate the feedback. What will happen is I'll do a new etch with the ammended parts on it and send that out to all of you who already have the kit. This will also allow me to sell things like footsteps as an accesory item like I do with the grills.
     
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  10. Timbersurf

    Timbersurf

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    Steve, as a professional designer of bespoke machines, we all make little "boo boo's" and rely on the builders/installers to iron out the kinks in collusion with design, we call it commissioning! For production manufacturing, it is best practice to make a prototype/sample, to prove the robustness of design, as I have said before, this current arrangement of getting an hexpert to test build it, is fantastic :tophat:.

    As for the public, as an outsider, I may be put off ordering one just yet, if I found this thread, but would be confident to order one once it has been showcased on here, as a proven and tested 'good' kit, rather than look elsewhere at kits that have no credentials!
    :cheers:

    If I wanted a particular engine, my first port of call would be to ask on forums how hard/well a manufacturers kit is to make.
     
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  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    As I have said before, the fact that we have someone who is openly developing a product in such a public manner and demonstrating that any potential issues are being ironed out is a very brave move. I'd like to think that it will speak volumes in terms of the credibility of the reworked kit on completion.

    It's great to see the overall development taking shape and makes a very interesting thread.

    Toto
     
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  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    So onwards with the bogie outer side frames, as usual I fabricate the first one of any new design to familiarise myself with process and once satisfied I set up a production line to do the others. Here the first frame has had wraps fitted except for the axle keep ones which need a little more thought to get right but now the lifting lugs. There is a choice of two sorts, Part 61 a single eyelet and Part 60 which is a double eyelet, I'm using the former as 27005 had and still has the single type, however as bogies were interchangeable at overhaul it is entirely possible some locos ran with both sorts. My advice is to consult photos of your loco depicted in the time period of your choosing.

    Now here is a little tip I'm sharing, Part 60 pieces are located in pairs set 1mm apart and there are two pairs to each side, so there is every chance it can go wrong as I discovered the first time... this is what I did once I'd refined the technique. Locate the first one remembering to place the strengthening ring faces outwards, hold this piece in place with a piece of spring wire... I used an old broach reamer minus its plastic grip to hold the tiny Part 60 in position, once soldered it was a matter of treating the second one the same once satisfied everything aligned properly, see Fig 7.6 of Part 7 in the kit instructions.


    The next step will be to add in the back frame face Part 51 thus closing this section up once the axle keep wraps are fitted. Remember you saw this technique first here on Platform 1. ;)
     
  13. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Before you close the back up don't forget to put some scrap brass behind the big holes to imitate an equalising beam....:thumbs:
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Oops I missed that... I'll have to solder some brass rod in from behind now.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Pretty much one outer side frame is now finished bar for the irons protecting the primary springs and the axle keep guides which I'll deal with when fitting in the new resin 3D printed items, all these bits will go together once the whole outer frame is fabricated and tested to the inner frame. So having soldered the faux imitation stretchers to the back of the outer frame I ensured that the underside which is handed (Part 27 Part 27a) was formed at the end to meet the profile of Parts 33 side pieces before soldering. That concludes the first fix on the outer bogie side frame for now and focus will turn to the fabricating headstocks and the other three side frames, hopefully by somewhere next week we should have a couple of bogies ready in their raw form.

     
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  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A nice clean build there. A take it you have been in there with the fibre pencil already. :avatar:

    Your 27 bits will be put in with the 26 kit and new 26 casts when packaging up for postage tomorrow. :thumbs: they are all looking very good. I'm sure you'll approve. :thumbs:
     
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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Nah I've worn me fibre pencil out on all these other loco builds. :avatar:

    Great stuff and thanks Dundee and Toto, I'll let you know when the package arrives and put up a few pictures too, with any luck I should have got one bogie complete by mid week and so we can all share an inaugural peek at how these new bits look on the brass frame. :tophat:Things can all be taken from there once the shinnies arrive.:thumbs:
     
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  18. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    B6793E34-2B65-450E-AC51-DFB3A8FD9970.jpeg BF423E02-D8DB-43C7-B243-F4A923FBFBA3.jpeg Got these from Terry. I’ve asked for some detailed bogie and rear of the buffer beam photos, but won’t be till next week.
     
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  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Great images. :thumbs:
     
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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Superb pics thanks for posting them Andy... oh bugger looks like we have to get a set of standard oval buffers for this build.:scratchchin: Those large head Oleo ones in the kit just won't do this time... looks like I'm going to have to start building Class 20's :avatar:
     

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