Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Rob Pulham, Nov 1, 2017.
That bar just keeps getting higher - need to see if Amazon sell modellers pole vaults to give a chance
Just as an addendum to this I have just picked up another J79 kit from a dealer for a reasonable price and I was most surprised to find that in amongst all the bits - (it was advertised as being not in its original box and without wheels/motor/gearbox) a set of cast wheels and a fold up gear box and gear set, plus some very nice cast hornguides/blocks. I will need to add sprung buffers and I may well replace the Safety valve trumpet with a cast one from Gladiator like the one featured on this build. I only need two more for full set
Well done Rob, nice when that happens... I see the topic has come round to hornblocks again
Further to my post above.
The wheels look quite nice apart from the fact that they have had the spoked cut for insulation and it's been done quite crudely, requiring some filling to make them presentable.
What I am looking for is recommendations as to what might be the best filler to use? I was intending to use milliput but thought it worth asking the question. It's worth mentioning from the outset that both Chris and I are quite susceptible to spirit based products so I would be looking for something without much of a smell.
Sadly modelling ceases to be pleasure when it makes you ill with the smell
I'd say there are several options here, both solvent and non-solvent based. There are various types of 'No-Nails' adhesives which should do what you want, including several Evo-stik ones in a range called "Sticks like Sh*t" (Honest, that's the name!). They're intended for various building trade applications such as fixing wood or UPVC skirtings/fascia boards either to themselves or other medium, and come in a 'Mastic gun tube' type container. In my working life, I often used one called "Pink Grip" which I found excellent for a variety of uses, although not tried it for the use you need. Hope this might be of help.
To be honest Rob if I were you I would go for the 24hr two pack epoxy glue for strength and adhesion. If you used it upwind and with a mask you will probably be ok. It is a chemical reaction that sets it so you could leave it outdoors then bring it in for final hardening - it sets harder the warmer it gets - and any vapours should have evaporated by then.
I had a very satisfying session on Friday afternoon finishing of fitting the pickups and getting the J79 for a run out at SHildon on Saturday. After a couple of minor hiccups including a crank pin bush and a wheel retaining stud coming undone she ran successfully in both directions. I do need to look at my springing of the centre axle though as there didn't seem to be any movement at all.
I took along a couple of items of rolling stock for a run out too - Connoisseur Midland Milk van and a Dragon S&D Horsebox.
Very nice little runner. Now ....... The class 24 I seen thunder through the second video ....... What's the story with that ?
... its running light engine back to Cockshute for refueling Toto
or in Toto's case pre flight checks, and a decent run up for the high jump.
Rob is that DC or DCC and do you have a flywheel or stay alive fitted.
Other than that it belongs to one of the guys I have no idea, sorry.
At the minute it's DC, no flywheel.
Can you, for the technically bereft ( me ) explain the significance of the flywheel comment in your last post. Ill be the thick one who asks the question although I suspect the answer will benefit / educate many.
I'd describe a flywheel as the mechanical equivalent of a 'stay-alive', as the momentum of a rotating flywheel will carry the locomotive a short way up the track if (for example) dirty track causes a split second loss of electrical contact resulting in the motor ceasing to drive for a short time. It would also help maintain motion on slight inclines.
It's just as Keith describes, the analogue equivalent of a stay alive..
So a flywheel could be used as an option on a DCC kit rather than a bank of capacitors. ( not just DC kits )
Yes, if you have the room and a motor with a second shaft. There are lots of debates about the rights and wrongs of it but there are those that use them and it works.
Many of the Heljan 4mm loco's use one or more flywheels, and you still have the option of (on DCC at least) a'stay-alive' fitted decoder......two bites at the cherry!