Disraeli Gears

Discussion in 'Strictly Inglenooks' started by Tony Davis, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Very impressive change of location, of course, two sets of buildings and backscenes and you have two layouts

    Paul
     
  2. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Thanks Paul.
     
  3. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Anthony just catching up
    Some nice additions to the look of the layout
    The buildings look great and you have to be impressed when you do something yourself and the Gormo inspired back scene, very nice.:thumbs:
     
  4. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Really impressed with the way you're developing the layout Anthony ... keep an eye on Paul he'll have you building lots of layouts at the same time ... he does that

    Ian
     
  5. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Thanks Chris & Ian,

    I just couldn't get the "factory" version of Disraeli-Gears straight in my head, it just never seemed right. Then, on playing with the software that Gormo featured, I I realised that the railway on my doorstep would be the best one to base a layout on. I will build a larger, more accurate version in the future but this little layout will serve as a "schoolroom" for learning how to model
     
  6. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Haven't done a lot for what now seems like an age, I was diagnosed with an illness the cure for which is worse than the symptoms of the illness! The extreme tiredness associated with the meds has limited my interest in mostly everything but I have managed to put together a preliminary build of the Wisbech & Upwell depot office. It is scratch built using Scalescenes papers. I will be rebuilding it with more precision in the future and I am not happy with the ridge tiles in particular as they don't stand out as prominently as the originals.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  7. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    And another view;

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Anthony

    Sorry to hear you not doing too well and hope you're better soon.

    For ridge tiles, I have used spaggetti as a former, then used silver tissue paper to represent lead flashing, but ypu could use brick paper instead.

    [​IMG]

    Paul
     
  9. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    That looks good Paul, thanks for the tip, I will give that a try.
     
  10. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    That little Wisbech shed looks great, Pauls suggestion for the ridge tiles is spot on, plus you could also use ally food tray flattened and cut into strips laid over the spaghetti which would give a bit more thickness to the tiles.
    Pete.
     
  11. Gary

    Gary Staff Member Administrator Golden Goat 2018

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    Or you could double up the thickness of the ridge capping... :thumbup:

    Cheers, Gary.

    ps. The shed looks good to me. :thumbs:
     
  12. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Thanks guys, the idea of the tin foil plus the spaghetti former sounds good, the prototype has quite prominent, separate ridge tiles so those tips seem worth a try.
     
  13. Echidna

    Echidna Full Member

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    Hello Anthony,

    Using the neodymium magnets is preferable to the Kadee type as it allows for more adjustment in location and it is a lot neater and easier to install.

    Also use actual Kadees as they are metal, the plastic copies lack the mass for continual shunting that an Inglenook presupposes.

    Two alternative methods of uncoupling a is to use the Rix " h " shaped uncoupler or use a bamboo or plastic skewer to open the jaws . The skewer will not work with plastic look alike couplings.

    Lance Mindheim who has published a number of articles in Kalmbach's Model Railroader and is owner of The Shelf Layouts company ( www.shelflayouts.com ) and who specializes in small shelf switching / shunting layouts set in Florida ( CSX ) also cuts off the Kadee tails and uses a skewer only.

    You could also consider using a cassette to change over trains at the single line entry, thereby reducing handling of the actual train.

    Also with the Kadees when uncoupling you need to reverse and then move forward to allow the jaws under magnetic uncoupling control to engage for pushing , so when you do your measuring for your sidings allow enough room for this manoeuvre to take place . Also bear in mind that the wagons are not meant to touch the buffer stop ( in real life hitting the buffers can cause a lot of damage even at very low speeds ) . Also be aware that there needs to be sufficient clearance between adjacent sidings to ensure that wagons stopped on an adjacent siding are not clipped by movements on adjacent lines .

    If you can access some Model Railroader magazine with Lance's articles his illustrations will show you what to avoid .

    I think the Inglenook is an excellent shunting layout providing you are aware of potential difficulties.

    Looking good, so best wishes,

    Regards, Echidna
     
  14. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Well, for various reasons, Disraeli Gears is no more. It has morphed into a plank, details of which I will place in the relevant forum. Thanks to all for the suggestions and support.

    Tony
     
  15. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking forward to seeing it develop Anthony. Good to see you back on and posting.

    welcome to the new forum.

    cheers

    toto
     
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