Electronics Tutorial Anyone?

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by redpiperbob, Jul 31, 2018.

  1. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Before we start on the point motors I thought you might like to see a mock up of the layout based on the drawings in the previous post.
    One thing I forgot to mention is there are many ways to wire the same scenario I have just used one.

    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
    SMR CHRIS and jakesdad13 like this.
  2. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    And here is a view inside the switch box

    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
  3. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Now for the point motors

    The ones here are the Gaugemaster GMC-PM10 (seep).

    Here are a couple of pictures of the PM10’s
    These solenoids are reliable and easy to fit and very easy to electrically connect.
    For those that don’t know how a solenoid works here is a brief description
    If we apply the correct voltage between A and B the iron plunger inside the coil of wire

    will be attracted to that coil. Now if we have two coils on the one plunger as in this picture.
    If we apply a voltage to A and C the plunger will move to the left.

    If we apply a voltage to B and C the plunger will move to the right.

    This is how the point motors work.



    In the above picture the two black arrows are the coils and the blue arrow is the plunger.



    Now to get the solenoid plunger to move positively we need to give the coils a quick surge of current. We cannot leave the current on as this would burnout the coil wiring. To do this we need a different kind if switch then the single pole on/off type we used to connect to the track.

    There are many ways of giving this short sharp blast of current, probe and buttons, passing contact switches or press to make button switches. The one we will use here is the passing contact switch. There are many different switches we will use a center biased switch this is a switch that is sprung loaded to the middle and can be pressed either way to momentarily connect to either of two contacts

    The other thing we need to give that last of current is a Capacitor discharge unit (CDU), this unit is feed from a 12 to 16 volt power supply and when activated sends out a short pulse of high current.

    The following is a wiring diagram of one point motor connected to a CDU.

    Here are the connections on the point motor


    Here are the connections to the CDU
    The two blue arrows are the PSU connections
    The red arrow is the connection to Z on the passing switch
    The black arrow is the connection to the C connection of the point motor.
    And here is the diagram to all three points.
     
  4. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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  5. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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  6. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Hi Bob
    All good stuff and easily understood.
    Only bit that is not clear to me is that are the coach lights permanently on as the DCC track is always 'live'?
    Or have I missed something?
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  7. TimberSurf

    TimberSurf Full Member

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    Pete
    Simply put, yes.

    But that's probably prototypical anyway.
    There are a few options:-
    Small switch on the underside
    A magnetic latching reed relay under the roof
    An LDR circuit to turn it off if its light
    Park in a siding and isolate the siding from DCC (
    Fit a cheap decoder in the coaches for ultimate control! (bottom of page)
    Switch via a remote
    Feed from the loco decoder aux via interconnecting wiring (yuck!:eek:)
     
  8. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Thanks Bob
    Bit late at night to try and get my head around all this electricity stuff.
    Will look at your suggestions in the morning
    OR
    I may just leave the lights on!!!
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  9. TimberSurf

    TimberSurf Full Member

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    My name is not Bob, but as I am usurping his thread, I am happy for Bob to take the credit! :avatar:
     
  10. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    My apologies Timbersurf :(:( Hope there is no damage done!
    I thought I was replying to Bob.
    Did not check the thread properly.
    Pete
     
  11. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Pete
    If you go to post 27 and read from there you will see the little board I make up for my coach lighting.
    If you need more help please do not hesitate to let me know either here or by PM
    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
  12. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Hi Bob
    Yes, got all that.
    Now looking for motion sensors with a time delay.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  13. TimberSurf

    TimberSurf Full Member

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    I know of one packaged with a battery, but if you can find one for DCC, I will be very interested.
     
  14. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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  15. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Hi Bob
    Only problem with these that I can see is the working voltage, 100-240V AC.
    At least it shows that there is 'stuff' out there.
    Thanks for the help.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  16. TimberSurf

    TimberSurf Full Member

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    I don't see how a PIR would work?
    I think what your after would be a motion/tilt sensor like this combined with an off delay timer like this. The problem is that the two would be bulky. As I said before TrainTech do a battery version, I don't think anyone has come up with a proprietary sensor/timer for DCC!
     
  17. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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  18. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Pete
    Why do you want a delay from the time the sensor is hit.
    it would be easy enough to set up a delay in the Arduino code.
    sorry Pete I was typing when you were I thought you were talking bout the turntable. are you looking for a stay alive system or a delay to switch on the coach lights.
    be seeing you
    Bob
     
  19. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Hi Bob
    I was just thinking that your design is fine whilst travelling along the track but when the coaches are parked up, (fiddle yard or a siding), I would like them to go off.
    The reason for the time delay is if the coach is in a station I would not want them to turn off.
    Maybe I am being optimistic about this!
    The link I sent you says it has a small stay alive on the board. Larger ones available.
    It's not a huge deal. I just thought it would be easier than this with the amount of electronic gimmickry around.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  20. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Pete I have done that on my coaches by inserting a latching reed switch in the circuit.
    You just wave a magnet over the coach to switch on or off.
    be seeing you
    Bob
     

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