Episode 105 18 The Gormo 3 Link Coupling System

G`day Folks,
Sorry for the late reply.......I have been dealing with a case of the flu for 2 weeks now and have not been inclined to do much at all.
Beeetleton MPD.......there is some slight reaction with the under track magnets wherein you can see the chains attracted to them if the chains are down. There is a slight pull towards them but that`s all. If I go all out with this system, the track magnets will come out anyway.....no big deal.
Thanks for all the positive comments........I have come to realize though that the challenge with this system will be adding it to locos. Wagons are relatively simple to convert, however locating a magnet on the loco in the right location is not so easy. Each loco will be a challenge as they are all different in the ways that the chassis locks into the bodies.

Tony I`ve now realized that the painted track you were seeing in the video was not of my own hand. I think you may be referring to the track on my branch line which in fact was done by Gary`s late friend Murray. Murrays layout has been incorporated into GCJ as it was a near perfect fit and saved it from being scrapped. Gary may be able to assist with info about the painting method for that particular part of the layout as I would only be guessing on how it was done.
Gormo

 

Thanks for the suggestions..........it may be possible to fit magnets to the NEM`s but I must say I`m not sure at this stage.
Each loco will be different and the mind set I have is to standardize all hooks and links, therefore this means determining set heights and distances for all fittings on rolling stock otherwise it will be just a hotch potch.
As I`ve mentioned before, the wagons are not too much trouble but the the locos vary quite a bit. I think a height gauge may be of value here......more thought required and testing of course. I am 75% there I think. I can couple, uncouple and shunt consistently with what I`ve thrown together already and I`ve worked out what works and what doesn`t. It`s time to clear the mess and pair down the parts and methods of construction and formulate a simple, concise plan for conversion to this system.
One annoying little feature I`ve found is that not all manufacturers conform to a set height for buffers......surprise, surprise.!!!!!!.......however it does not seem to have any adverse effect on performance.
Now on an ethical note here.......it has been suggested to me that I should patent this idea. I have given this serious thought and there are two factors here. One is the cost of going down such a route.....which is quite high, although not out of the question.....and the other is my own philosophy of sharing what I work out in Gormo`s Shed. I did not start out in this hobby to turn it into a business........I did that once years ago, and when my hobby became a business it killed the hobby for me and I`ve never gone back to it.......so I think I`ve answered the question in my own mind.
I will share the results of this exercise freely with my mates in the hobby and if someone decides to go commercial with it......well that`s my bad luck.
To my mind this hobby thrives on people sharing information and techniques on forums such as this and in the magazines from the trade. I like this hobby and I like the people it attracts and I like the fact that they are willing to advise and share and help where possible and I hope this ideal situation continues long into the future. ...........So there you have it.........when the system is working and clear in my mind, I will post a full description on these hallowed pages.
I rest my case your honour......
Gormo

 

Thanks for the back up Guys.........much appreciated....
Managed to get some suitable chain (second attempt ) today from Spotlight ( an Australian manchester and haberdashery chain ). The chain I am using is used in making jewelery and has an iron core. My first purchase of chain was from China. The description of the chain matched exactly what I was looking for and it was as cheap as chips. The links were supposed to be 4mm long, however when my parcel arrived I discovered the links were only about 2mm.....maybe even smaller....Crikey!!!!.....I got sucked in there, but actually it will make very good model chain for cranes or pulleys or for securing loads, .....so no big deal.....put it down to experience and it cost me a buck fifty....so who cares.????

So I decided to give China the flick and look locally........Spotlight chain ( made in China ) is $ 3.95 per metre which makes approx. 66 couplings which is about 6 cents per coupling plus a couple of other bits which in the end fits out a wagon for peanuts. The Spotlight chain is as close to perfect as I expect to get, so as you can imagine, I`m quite happy with this one.

I also acquired some jewelery making pliers today, and they have made quite a difference to working with small chain and bending wire. I can now make really good wire fittings for securing the chain to the wagon. So folks, a couple of positive steps forward today and a couple of steps closer to the final solution.
Chris I will definitely keep you in the loop and actually O Gauge may be even easier if one can get suitable parts.?

Gormo

 

OK Chris........I`m with you now..
I discovered something else yesterday that may be helpful. The system can be used in two different ways.
If the chain is set in it`s retaining hook hard up against the buffer beam, it works as I have shown at the start of this thread. This means the chain has to be lifted to the opposite wagon to couple and it means that the chain has to be pushed down away from the opposite wagon to uncouple. This method allows uncoupled wagons to be pushed up a siding. I have even uncoupled whilst the train is on the move.....Fly Shunting....I think that`s right..
Anyway ....the other method requires a bit more tolerance towards the look of the system because method two once again looks at the chain, however this time setting it approx 2 to 3mm off the buffer beam. The effect this has results in automatic coupling. Once the opposite wagons buffers make contact magnetic attraction draws the chain to the hook. Once the train moves forward the chain slides up the hook and connects properly. Of course you lose the ability to push uncoupled wagons, because they will automatically connect, however this method may appeal to some folks. The wagons still have to be manually uncoupled with this method. It is a compromise once again but does give semi automatic operation....????. That said... I think it could be a bit of a pain to find the sweet spot consistently as you do get variation in magnet strength even though the rating is set as a standard. My own preference is still the original method described, as I like the ability to push uncoupled wagons.
Gormo

 

OK Folks,
I`ve cracked it...!!!!
Yes I have successfully tweaked the system to the point where it is plug and play, to use a term from a totally different field.
I have been testing and adjusting since the last update. Trying different parts and positions, dealing with frustration at times, just when you think you`ve got it......it buggers up.????
I guess the core of it is understanding the clearances and the movements involved in the parts, to the point where you know what to do to make it work.
The bugbear all the way, has been pushing wagons, not pulling. If it were just pulling, it would be child`s play.
Anyway......at the moment I am putting together a presentation which will describe in depth how to build this system and the logic and ideas behind it that allow it to work.
I will start a new thread for this one..........it`s like clearing the work bench and making a fresh start.......so it will be the next Gormo`s Shed. I know this is unusual to have two Sheds in a row on the same subject, but I think this will be worthwhile and may start a lot of folks off on new journey with couplings.
Gormo

 

Here we are guys.......started a new thread....
http://platform1mrc.com/p1mrc/index.php?threads/episode-106-18-the-gormo-3-link-coupling-pt-ii.3057/
All will be revealed through a comprehensive video
Gormo