G`day Folks, Welcome once again to Gormo`s Shed. This week we are doing a tutorial about converting the Model Railway Scenery 1930`s Boot Factory back scene. http://www.modelrailwayscenery.com/2016/04/1930s-factory-backscene-element-bx006-oo4mm176/ I have built it to suit a lift out section that will bridge the doorway to my railway room, however the same method could be employed to add it to your back scene. This method is, I feel, slightly different from the standard approach, in that I have used a home laminator to create the glazing layer. Another point of difference is using the actual material contained in the down load to create perspective at one end of the building. So enjoy the tutorial folks.. Low Relief Boot Factory on YouTube http://www.clickGormo
Dear Gormo, I have just watched your video on the Low Relief Boot Factory and I think it is a brilliant result, well done. My query is in relation to glueing the next layer on top of the laminated layer. You mentioned the use of PVA glue ( as in Selley's Aquadhere ) . I am surprised that a wood and paper glue would adhere to laminated plastic , so is it a particular type of PVA ( I only recently found out that PVAs come in a variety of formulations ) that you have used or does the laminate have a course surface to aid the PBA to stick ? However you achieved this I think it is a mighty impressive result and a potential game changer in building construction. Best wishes and regards, Echidna
I agree, a brilliant result Gormo. I like the way you managed the perspective on the end as well. reaaly terrific stuff. cheers Toto
Thank you Echidna, Toto & Ron, Echidna....the PVA used was bog standard Craft Glue from Bunnings at $ 1.00 a bottle. Even though it says Craft Glue, it looks and smells and performs like PVA. It contains a list as long as your arm of ingredients that it`s probably best not to know about. It states on the label that it is for use on Paper, Fabric, Leather and Wood. It also states that it is not suitable for use on Glass, Plastic and Steel. I read all that after I used it!!!!....I just try things as I go along. If it works that`s good. If it doesn`t work or fails later on due to poor choice of materials, I`ll work out something else. But at the moment it`s stuck in place like mud to a blanket. I have also used this method before with my control panels, and taken comfort in the thought that extra adhesion is gained through the switches being screwed down to it, however no signs of anything letting go at this stage. I guess I just use dumb logic in that nobody told me it wouldn`t work, so I did it.!!! I have a back up plan though which involves more work. I`m basically lazy so I went the other way first. If you print your glazing layer to good quality thin card, available from Office Works, and then laminate, you can cut through the lamination around each window and then peel the rest away just leaving the windows glazed. You can also do this on the back of the sheet, however on the back you can peel the whole laminated layer away. The card method would be superior because it would give you guaranteed surfaces for gluing. If you print on A4 paper however and peel the laminate away, it will take layers of the paper with it and therefore is not successful. I hope this has been of some use. http://www.clickGormo
