As promised, now I've completed fitting, here follows a "How-to" for anyone contemplating same. Off with the body for starters, this is held by 2 small lugs on each side, so just easing the loco sides apart frees the chassis from the body. As on many Heljan loco's, the best place to fit a speaker is the 'fuel tank' moulding between the bogies. This again is held by 4 small lugs, and gentle prising with a screwdriver will free it from the chassis underside. The PC board is held by the usual 2 rubber lugs, and is easily separated by easing the lugs apart, there being sufficient spare wires to allow it to be moved over to one side of the chassis after unplugging the motor power connector. Removal of the motor itself, (necessary because of the need to drill a hole through the chassis into the 'fuel tank' area below for the speaker connection) is not quite so straightforward as on other Heljan models, as there are no slots at the motors base to allow it to be prised upwards. Instead, I made a 'cradle' under the motors shaft, between it and the flywheels, using a thin insulated wire, and lifting the motor out, disengaging the cardan shafts as I lifted. Once out, the hole can be drilled as below. Attached files
As with most of the Heljan diesels, the 'fuel tank' splits into 4 parts, 2 outers and 2 inners. I fitted the largest speaker I could get into the space, this being a 30x25x 6mm deep 8 ohm one supplied (as was the Zimo decoder) by Youchoos, and this made it necessary to cut the 'fuel tank' sections to get the speaker in. After cutting, I decided to glue the sections together rather than their normal push fit, for added strength, and fixed the speaker in position using 'White Tac', and later black painting any exposed white areas. Using black 'Tac' would avoid the need to paint, but I only had white to hand. This is the speaker and 'fuel tank' before fixing. Attached files
And the speaker now fixed into the 'fuel tank', and clipped back onto the chassis underside. Attached files
With the speaker now fitted, the motor is replaced, making sure the cardan shafts engage as you push the motor down into position, ensuring the speaker wires are positioned away from the flywheel. Since the motor terminals are at the same end, it's easy to fix the speaker wires behind one motor connecting lug, out of harms way. Once the motor is back in position, then the PCB can be refitted, and motor connection plug inserted. Attached files
At this stage, I fit cab lighting, using SMD LED's as I've previously shown, so I won't go over that again, but here's the body with cab lighting installed and ready for the connections to be soldered to the 8 pin decoder plug. Attached files
Now it's time to remove the DC plug, connect the DCC sound decoder, soldering the speaker connections and heat shrink sleeving them. A "Stay-Alive" capacitor and connections for it to the decoder (Zimo MX645) are supplied, but as the Heljans have all-wheel pickups, I've not felt it necessary to use "Stay-Alive" facility, so insulated the wires. Finally, I soldered the cab lighting wires direct to the decoders 8 pin plug, refitting the body, then black painting the 'White Tac' on the underside as below. Attached files
Last, but not least, it's onto the rolling road for decoder setup and testing. All's well, so that's another loco for the 'stable'! I've also just scored a second Heljan Class 33 for £58 DCC fitted, but unfortunately (for me!) it's in BR Blue, and I model the 'Green' era, but 'hey-ho', it's off with the body and strip everything off it, a quick rub down, and it's presently sitting with primer coats hardening ready for it's new green coat. At least it'll give me time to save up for another sound decoder! Keith. Attached files
You're welcome Paul. This is my second Class 33, now in primer ready (when I have time!) for some green paint. Attached files
.......and this is (hopefully) the tool that's gonna apply said paint! Nothing fancy, it's a Draper, and cost me all of 15 Quid. Wether it'll be money well spent, or maybe I should've bought the Iwata I was considering, remains to be seen, although to be honest, I don't do much in the way of major repaints. Anyway, the money I was going to spend on the Iwata has now been spent on another loco today, since I was at the Great Central Railway Model Event. Further details on that shortly! Keith. Attached files
I'll be watching this with interest for the results. I bought this one for £27 via Amazon, but Toto and I found the version without the interchangeable cups for about £15 on ebay. I have been impressed with the results, fingers crossed your equally impressed with your gun. Paul
I'm hoping that the 'pistol grip' will be easier to use than the other type. Arthritic fingers don't take too kindly to the top mounted trigger, and I find the side feed arrangement means I can see better where I'm pointing the tool. I have top feed, side feed and siphon feed types (all 'Tenner' specials) with the top trigger, so hoping the pistol grip will be more comfortable to use. Keith.
Nice one Keith, let us know how you get on. I used to buy a lot of Draper and Stanley tools when I was a sparky. Good tools. cheers toto
At the moment I am fitting sound to my Heljan Class 33 using your excellent guide to get me through it. Can I ask what glue you used to put the fuel tank back together with ?? Cheers, Gary.
Hi Gary. Where I'm unsure about what type of plastic needs sticking, I tend to use "UHU Universal" clear glue (in the yellow tube and box) as It seems to stick the types that Poly glue doesn't, and as I recall, it was "UHU" I used to stick the tank together as it looked and felt more like a kind of nylon rather than plastic. "UHU" does tend to be a bit 'stringy' if you're not careful, though I guess you could use a superglue if you prefer. Incidentally, DC Kits (Legomanbiffo) now do complete replacement fuel tanks which have or will accept one of their bass reflex speakers for a better sound. When I did my 33, I used a Zimo decoder and speaker, but it's nice to have a choice. I recall a few months ago, you asked me about the Lima class 33, but I assume you went for the Heljan instead....probably a better decision. Although the Lima version is quite well detailed, the Heljan's construction, weight, power and build quality is streets ahead of the Lima, so I doubt you'll regret going for the Heljan instead. Keith.
I have 'cheated' with all four of my sound-fitted class 33s, in not drilling holes in the chassis, but merely running the speaker wires inside the gap in the chassis for one of the bogies, keeping the wires tight to the chassis and clearly inboard of the bogie side frames, so the wires cannot restrict the bogie swing. In total, I have nine of Heljan's class 33s in various guises and liveries, so you could say I am a fan of them.
Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. I'll have a go with super glue and if that doesn't work, I'll use Tarzan Grip, which sounds very similar to what you described UHU Universal. Cheers, Gary.
Contrary to popular belief, superglue doesn't stick everything, there are some types of material, perhaps more along the lines of nylon (but I'm no chemist!) that it just sits on the surface of, but doesn't soak in or bond. I guess it's a case of "Suck it (or stick it!) and see! Keith.
