Horby 2HAL EMU.

Discussion in 'Hornby RTR' started by Keith M, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Now that Hattons are seemingly clearing stocks of the 2HAL at a realistic price of £62, I decided I'd have one, which arrived this lunchtime. They are nothing like as well specified as Bachmann EMU's are, no internal lighting or route indicator board illumination, and whilst the motor coach is quite weighty at the motor end, it's very light at the other so needs weight there to balance things up, and the trailing coach is very light, so weight there needs beefing up!. I have made a start by running in, fitting and programming a decoder, and added weight in the form of lead flashing strips to both coaches, some internal painting ready for passenger figures, and begun a lighting install, but holidays are close, so nothing more will get done until nearer the end of the month, when I'll probably start a "How-To" on my 'Workbench' thread.
    Keith.
     
  2. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Whilst I'm away on holiday and have a bit more 'thinking time' (so no actual modelling), I've been considering the possibilities of illuminating the headcode box at each end of the EMU. As standard from Hornby, there is no option to do this, so not because I can, but because I just might be able to, I've ordered Warm White and Red SMD LED's from "Bright Components" (other suppliers are available!) with the idea of soldering these to a small stripboard and fitting this behind the drilled out headcode area between the drivers windows. The intention is then to use the white and yellow decoder wires to switch between white and red LED's, dependant on direction of the EMU so that I can have lit headcodes. As the decoder is a 4 function one, I can then use the green wire to switch coach and/or cab lighting and hopefully the purple wire for flickering 3rd rail pickup shoe 'sparking' with a bit of decoder reprogramming. I've no idea if this is 'do-able' or if anyone has already done this, but I'll have a crack at it anyway, as it can't hurt to try and if it all works, it'll be a bonus, and something to aim for on my other EMU's......nothing ventured, nothing gained!
    Keith.
     
  3. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    Hi Keith. I like the idea of the illuminated headcodes, but on these older units using stencils over opal glass, they didn't use red tail end indications in the headcodes. As standard, red oil lamps were used at the tail end of these trains.

    You could still arrange the white / red illuminations, but hang an oil lamp on each end and only illuminate it as red at the tail end (perhaps using a fibre optic).

    I bought quite a few of the Southern liveried 2 BIL units from Kernow models some time ago when they had them for less than £60, and used the chassis to motorise various resin kits I was/am building ('Tin' 2 HAL, Bulleid-style 2 HAP, and Bulleid 4 SUB).

    I may re-use the SR BIL bodies later as unpowered units, mounted on the chassis left over from the resin kits.
     
  4. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    That's useful info Jeff, as I didn't know about the tail lamps. That will make it easier still, as I was trying to work out how I might fit perhaps 2 of each colour SMD LED's into such a small space to get something approaching an even illumination of the panel. Now I'll only need a couple of Warm White ones in each panel, and I already have some 3mm LED's converted into 'oil lamps', which I can use. I'm expecting delivery of the SMD's in the next few days, all I'll need will be the time to sort it........so many projects, so little time!!!:avatar:

    Keith.
     
  5. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    I haven't tried this, but my suggestion would be to use some thin white plastic card in the headcode apertures, and illuminate them from behind for the forward direction. A long time ago, I bought some stencil headcodes in etched brass - I think I got some from Blacksmith Models and some from Roxey Mouldings, but I may be wrong on one or both suppliers.

    The actual illumination on the real things was through opal glass but used incandescent bulbs. I think there were only four bulbs involved at each end, but photos of the headcode boxes minus their glasses are few and far between!
     

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