Lazarus? a resurrected layout from a few years ago

Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by jakesdad13, Jan 4, 2017.

  1. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Just inspected the bit of track I've ballasted and used Seel on, still tacky, mind you the shed is cold and a bit damp from all the rain we had yesterday, I have put the heater back on, so I will check again later.

    Pete.
     
  2. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    It certainly chucked it down yesterday!! Small leak in the shed roof somewhere but can't find it!! :confused:
     
  3. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Ron wrote:
    You can guarantee it will be someplace that will be a b*^^er to reach:evil:.

    Right, I checked the test piece that I had ballasted and it had set firm, so I have given a few sections on the layout some ballasting and gluing in place, hopefully it won't take as long to dry :twitch:.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have only gone this far as standing bent over for any length of time is painful in my back and knee joints, I still need to find a way of masking the tiebars and the wire in tubes to prevent it all getting glued up solid.

    Pete.
     
  4. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Would 'Maskol' or similar do it, Pete?
    Keith.
     
  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Or just some good old masking tape itself maybe.
     
  6. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm thinking of slipping some plastic over the operating wire and the tube end, a piece of card over that and ballast over the lot, and just use glue sparingly, fingers crossed ;).

    Pete.
     
  7. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Pete,

    That ballasting seems to be working out well.

    I`ve found even with the diluted PVA method, it`s best to leave it alone for a couple of days until it dries right out......even in our dry climate.

    How would you go using drinking straws to cover your cables / tubes. They could even be split along their length so you could slip them over what`s already in place.????

    http://www.click:tophat:Gormo
     
  8. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Pete, coming along nicely. I like the piece of plastic between the base board join to allow you to ballast right up to the joint with out glueing the boards together :thumbs:
    Kim
     
  9. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    The glacial build of "Lazarus" continues, I have done some more ballasting (still a little left to do) and glued it down this morning. I read some where, I think on one of Garys posts, about using isopropyl alcohol as a wetting agent for ballasting, so I mixed some 50x50 with water and sprayed the ballast before apply ing the "Seel" glue, worked a treat! I just hope I've not glued up the pointwork :eek::eek:.
    I will finish off the ballasting this afternoon, glue it and take some piccy's.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  10. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Well the ballast I did this morning has dried and the points still work :eek:, any way I have done the rest, just need it to dry then I can clean the rail tops and have a pl- er test :lol:.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Last bits.

    [​IMG]

    I'm going to used sieved soil for the rest of the ground cover, but thats got to wait a little, I am going to build an end loading dock on the left siding and until its in place I can't do anymore.
    I have decided to build the scalescenes goods shed and scratch build the station building useing their brick paper so every thing matches, plus I reckon it will be quicker than trying to cover my existing goods shed and station in brick paper.

    Any way thats for next time, cheer's, Pete.
     
  11. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Looking good Pete, well done mate :thumbs::thumbs:
     
  12. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Just ordered the goods shed from scalescenes, now to get some good quality printer paper, any suggestions anyone?

    Pete.
     
  13. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    John Wiffen recommends 80gsm paper, the quality would be up to you. Personally I would look for a ultra white pack of paper. Anything thicker, say 120gsm will put the model out in places.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  14. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Gary, I am very much an amateur working with card kits and I want to try and do as good a job as other lads on here, all advice is very welcome :thumbs:.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  15. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    If you can get yourself some 1mm and 2mm thick grey board or mount board, that would be ideal. Or, you could simply use cereal box card laminated together. Don't glue the printed sheets to the glossy image side of the card, keep the glossy image to the inside.

    Seal the prints with a matt sealer before assembly. I recommend doing both sides of the print outs. When the model is complete, seal again.

    Have plenty of sharp blades available for your knife/scapel.

    Another thing I recommend is to print out the pages twice. You just never know when you may cut one incorrectly or accidentally cut the window bars and door openings !

    To stop the print/card from curling/warping, place some weights (books, records, bricks, anything really) on top of the glued printed sheets and allow 12-24 hours curing time.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  16. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Gary :thumbup:, excellent advice, I think I may swop the printer cartridges before starting, don't want to run out of ink halfway through.

    Pete.
     
  17. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I was a bit bored this morning and decided to put Lazarus back up and try and do some more work on it. I hadn't realised it was 18+ months since doing any work on it :eek: until I looked for the thread.
    Anyhoo, its back up and I will give the track a clean and see if it still runs, fingers crossed!
    I have bought a "Petite Properties" station building for it and I'm going to clad it in Scalescenes brick paper plus build the Scalescenes goods shed I bought ages ago and use the new printed windows I've bought for it, however, the printer ink I ordered two weeks ago hasn't arrived, and I have had a refund from them! trouble is the refund is to PayPal and they won't release it until the end of the flippin' week :bleep6::bleep6::bleep6::bleep6::bleep6: Any way I will keep the updates coming.

    Cheer's for now, Pete.
     
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  18. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    All looks good stuff.. :scratchchin:
     
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  19. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Been an age since my last post on here. Truth be told I hit a buffer (pun intended) with the fiddle yard. The original fiddle for the O 16.5 wouldn't work so I re built it but once again it didn't look right. The plan was to make it a cassette yard but as there are two lines, the station road and the run round, close together entering the fiddle so I couldn't use single cassettes. Any way, today I have decided to go down the traverser route. It will be a very rough job but hopefully it should work. I have made it 4 roads wide and it over hangs the fiddle board by about 5-6 inches. At the moment I've got it weighted down gluing some cork to it. I will take some piccy's in the morning.
    Fingers crossed...............

    Pete.
     
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  20. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Right, so I have fitted the track to the fiddle, soldered the ends to some copper clad and wired the tracks. The next job is to connect the tracks to a plug, and fit a socket for same.
    The fiddle is more of a 4 road cassette than a traverser and is manually set by the mark 1 eye ball. :avatar:

    IMG_2067.JPG

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    IMG_2070.JPG

    I'm of to Kettering on Saturday to the O gauge show so hopefully I will be able to pick up the plug and socket to finish the wiring up.
    Then when all that is done fit some 4mm ply round the edges to keep the stock from falling off and fit some handles to help move it around.
    I may even ballast the track near to the joint :scratchchin:.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
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