Let there be light

Discussion in 'Hints & Tips' started by Ron, May 12, 2017.

  1. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    I was conscience that the engine shed of Sheringbourne was very poorly lit as the main striplight in the shed was over the workbench and not central.
    I purchesed a meter long LED (240v) strip light (from Screwfix) and decided to mount it over engine shed end of the layout. I drilled a hole in the corner baseboard for the lead but didn't like the bare lead being so blatent so using some old thick wallpaper I decided to cover the lead and form a curve into that cornerI then painted it 'Sky' colour to blend in with the backscene an fitted the lesd down to a socket.[​IMG]

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    Any wrinckles will disappear when the paint is dry.
    CheersRon
     
  2. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Sweet :thumbup:, looks great well done.
    Pete.
     
  3. Dave C

    Dave C Full Member

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    I made mention on my layout post that I was commencing a re-build following a house move but wanted to get the lighting right, so I'm using Ron’s original thread as the title seemed very appropriate, and hopefully I can add something to the content.

    I was never happy with the lighting in the layouts previous location - shadows making picking detail out difficult. I took some advice from a friend who is a keen amateur photographer, and Gormo gave me a heads up on his lighting too. My friend advised to use daylight equivalent lighting - daylight is around 6000kelvin, so I went for some 300mm square surface mounted LED light panels I bought two to try, plus a small 2' LED 6000k batten fitting because of a potential shadow being made by a dormer window.

    I can’t get into the loft space - the hatch is tiny, there is only about 4' max headroom anyway and 70% of the ceiling is on the slope anyway, so it is all surface mounted, and each light is controlled by an individual ceiling mounted switch, all of which are controlled by the normal light switch as the 'master'. The one on the roof slope is controlled by an infra red fob switch which will take 30amps! Makes a nice solid click when operated - not bad for £8.50.

    So if all I want is the fluorescent I just have that on. And if they prove to be too bright I can always switch individual ones off or cover some of the panel up with card (having dimmable LED lighting was going to be too costly when compared with a cereal packet!). Having taken some test photos I've now ordered a 3rd 300mm unit to go over the far end of the layout. Nothing is permanent and it will be easy to move unit’s around as necessary. The panels were only £15 each including p and p.

    The picture shows the ceiling with everything switched on - it’s like being in a dental surgery!

    Remeber this is all temporary until the layout is all back together and I've tried taking trial videos and photos.

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    Andy_Sollis and jakesdad13 like this.

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