Some great extension work going on there Toto, looking forward to seeing the C&W buildings also. York Paul
Hi York Paul, still at the early design stage with the C & W works buildings. I'll be able to get some firm dimensions when I start laying the track down. Also a rummage at York for some potential building materials. It'll give me something to look for when i'm there. cheers toto
Well it's now Wednesday ( early am ) and that's the back of the week broken. At mumsies tonight for my dinner. ( stovies ) and Lulu takes me to my training classes on Thursday night so it will be Friday night at the earliest before I get back to the baseboard build. However, one good shift at it will see the ends of baseboard one complete and hopefully baseboard two well on its way if not finished. They don't take long. I'll drill some cable routes through the ends and fit the alignment dowels. The plan has been hatched. Cheers Toto
Thanks Paul. They are good videos. I've seen them before but this will save me having to find them again.
looking good for more baseboard progress for tomorrow night. Just back from my training classes. Lulu said I done well tonight. cheers toto
Well it's Friday night, all domestics are done and it's shed time. I'm off to start baseboard no 2 and put the finishing touches to baseboard no 1. I'll bang up a photo or two later. Have fun. Cheers Toto
Job done. the two baseboards complete ........ the two sides cut and assembled ....... onto the top they go ........ on with the two ends ........... two baseboards complete. Tomorrow I will fit the engineers locating dowels, drill through the two sets of boards to make cable runs and bore out 3 x 10mm holes for fastening bolts. Then ....... the real fun begins . cheers for now Toto
I am thinking of using DAS Clay for the floor and forecourt area of the wagon works and possibly a single engine shed to give a concrete effect or maybe a cobbled effect. Not 100% sure which. I already have the clay that I bought some time ago, still sealed in the original packaging so it should be ok. my first question ( possibly already answered but looking for further opinion ) is what to stick it to the plywood with. After speaking with Gormo, he reckons neat PVA which I thought about as well. Gary may be able to answer this as I am sure he has used this in the past, possibly on Industry Lane ( which I am about to go and check ). I am also aware of the potential for shrinkage and cracking issues so I will build in where possible for the shrinkage and the cracking can be minimised by filling with a thin clay sludge. Some cracking is almost desirable to give a bit of a crazing effect in places so you almost want it to a degree. the thing with using this material is that you really need to make sure that your track is 100% tested and reliable as once its down, it would be a swine to have to take it up again. Similarly with any electrical track feeds etc. In fact, if I do go down this route, I will double up on electrical droppers on areas of track which are encased with the clay. belt and braces I think they call it. I will be giving the baseboards an initial all over coating of brown emulsion as done previously on Luib Bridge ( MK1 ) and then laying the track / points etc. I'll also give the rails a coating of rust and general weathering prior to laying the concrete. I don't want the concrete too uniform as I would like it to be aged and a bit shot through in places with nature reclaiming small areas where it would have been susceptible to giving way. more as it develops cheers toto
Just ordered up a single lane engine shed with built in water tower from L Cut creative so the separate water tower will come out. Picked up coal skaithes as well. The shed can be airbrushed but not sure how the mortar courses will be applied. It may be a case of once the brick colour goes on, let it dry, a coat of varnish and once dried, dry brush the mortar courses in wiping away from the raised brick work ...... or summit like that. cheers toto
Two ways you can go about painting brickwork.. 1. Paint the whole surface a mortar colour and then dry brush the brick in various brick shades. 2. Paint the whole surface in a mottled brick colour and allow two days solid drying. Perhaps in your winter, leave it dry for a few more days, maybe even a week. After completely drying, wash over a mortar colour and wipe the brick surface clean with a clean clothe. Don't use paper towel, the fibres will stick. Also, make sure there are no glue runs once you have pieced the kit together, as these will show up under the paint quite clearly. A light sand with 1200 grit paper (wet & dry) will remove any errant glue marks. Cheers, Gary.
Thanks for that Gary. Good point about the glue as well. Not so easy to keep it clear of glue due to the interlocking nature of the parts. I guess it's a case of wiping it clear as you go and then an overall sanding to take the last of the residue away once the kit dries out before painting etc. Cheers Toto
If the parts of the kit are interlocking, apply only a small amount of glue to the adjoining surfaces towards the back. Let this cure then using a paint brush, wipe a bead of glue up behind the joint where it is unseen. Cheers, Gary.