M & M Models BR Plywood Vans ( with corrugated vented ends ).

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Oct 26, 2018.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I think I get it. However, sketches are good. :avatar:
     
  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    This is what I mean ... in a very basic form.


    The red is the left side central longitudinal channel, the blue are the left upper and lower centre out riggers, the green is ONE of the small joiner channels which connect the two central longitudinals together as a spine, the yellow are the left side buffer strengtheners. Build two sub assemblies in this jig and all you need do is transpose one unit and solder it to the other... and you have the inner framework which you can add solebars and headstocks to.:thumbs:
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looks pretty straight forward. :thumbs:
     
  4. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    You don't need all those fancy jigs if you purchased some Parkside kits... :avatar::avatar:

    So, I'm guessing the new RSU is getting a work out ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    It will be Gary. These floor assemblies will fit in very well with its use I think, tacking them in place prior to running more thorough fillets of solder with the conventional iron.

    I'll update later.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Well,

    i hit the shed hours ago and progress is slow. positive .... but slow. I started soldering the various C channels together that go to make up the floor and after about the 4th attempt i finally got something that can just about pass as decent.

    here we are ......


    and it is square ......


    and the spacing is correct to take the axle guard and spring mouldings.


    about 1mm either side to play with ......


    its not the best but i am generally happy to use it in the build in the knowledge that it should not trip me up further down the road. i hate these fechin things but going on the basis that the above is only half the floor support and I also have circa another 20 or so wagons from this range with the same floor arrangement ........ I had better start to love them. :avatar:

    It is very slow progress but I really can't afford to try and rush it along as I just dont have the skills to take that chance and I do want a finished model at the end of it.

    Hopefully the other half later then join them together and solder it up to the underside of the van body to complete the body / floor chassis.

    In fact ..... ive just looked at the destructions as I type and its not even half way there. :facepalm: there is another section to go bang slap in the middle of the assembly but they advise you to install that in conjunction with the white metal brake cylinder ...... jesus harry H ........ they are now throwing white metal into the mix ........ what chance do I stand ........ :avatar:

    cheers

    toto
     
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  7. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Don't get too 'Hung up' about it Toto, it'll all come together in due course. Are you going to complete the basic frame then do a run of your other wagon underframes, as it often makes sense to get a bit of a 'production line' going to get them out of the way? It can be a bit boring maybe, but once you get into the swing of it, you'll rattle them off fairly quickly, then it's a job you're not fond of out of the way, and onto more enjoyable stuff. If you have any oddments of brass and white metal, do a few practice runs to get the feel of either gas torch or resistance solder unit, whichever you choose to use, then it'll feel a lot less intimidating and more pleasurable. You really need to get to grips with it so you're comfortable with your soldering, no good thinking "Oh Gawd, not another one" each time you start a new wagon or kit, or you'll never get them finished.
    Keith.
     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Learning to solder is a bit like learning to swim or ride a bike... once you get the hang of it there will be no stopping. My advice is Araldite in place those white metal fittings until you feel good enough the tickle them with low melt on a pointed iron tip, remeber your wagon chassis frame has to have a perpendicular inner face on the solebar and the whole assembly must not rock on a flat stone so all planes have to be true or your axle guards will sit looking like a hare with broken legs and simple de rail at every low spot or curve in the track. Right now you look as if you are off to a flying start Toto :tophat::thumbup:
     
  9. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    With all those in the stash, you had best get used to soldering white metal - there are a lot more whitemetal underframe fittings on the M&M wagons when compared to, say Jim's kits. Which is what accounts for the lower price - additional etches are more expensive than cast white metal.
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Keith,

    It is my intention after completing this one to get a production line going. The bodies are quite easy so as you say, probably best to get the underframes out the way first then you are on easy street for a while. I may jump back onto my RSU again and try to perfect the use of that as it will be easier to get the bit in to tack parts first rather than using the normal soldering iron. I'll be going on to the other half of this underframe possibly tonight so will try it out.

    The underframe feels quite solid but there is a very slight rock in it. Barely noticeable but it is there. As York Paul said though, this could amplify itself through the rest of the build. I'll need to have another look at that. It's maybe as a result of over working the piece.

    Once the underframe are out the way there is not much left in the way of brass. The roof will be the next challenge as it will need to be formed. Then we are on to the white metal. However, one thing at a time.

    I need to walk the mutt but should be back on the case later tonight.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  11. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    So, I'm guessing that you and Rob can't swim or ride a bike because both of your soldering skills are excellent ! :tophat:

    I remember the first time I picked up a soldering iron... All I knew was that it was good for burning fingers and creating large metallic boulders on my track ! :facepalm:

    You guys who have vast experience in building these kits are held in high esteem in my book as you produce great work, continuously ! :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Toto,

    Don't be frightened of giving it a little twist to straighten it, if it's only a small rock. You may be surprised at how little you might need to get it flat.
     
  13. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    It is very slight. I think between a slight twist as you say and when the part is soldered to the underside of the floor, it would straighten anyway. It really is minor.
    As I said, I had to do it a couple of times to get a decent result as I know how critical it is to get these things straight otherwise any errors just multiply through the model. I tend to be my own best critic. Not a bad thing really.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Well I'm certainly no good riding a bike... but gee Gary thanks for the compliment that is mighty kind of you mate :thumbs:... I'm sure Rob will also join me in saying we do what we do because we derive great pleasure from our respective model making gendres.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
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