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O Gauge 0-4-0 Industrial Tank Locomotive Kit

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Jun 10, 2016.

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  1. Jan 21, 2018 #41
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    it is under way .....
    [​IMG]

    out the wrapper and after a bit of a clean up round the edges etc ...... we're into it.
    [​IMG]

    still requires a bit cleaning up but I wanted to get at least a couple of the frets together so I kept going ...
    [​IMG]

    still messy but I'll start cleaning it back and going back over the solder ....
    [​IMG]

    and another before stopping for the night ......
    [​IMG]

    I am going to exchange the current tip for a 3mm chisel tip when I restart again as it may help drag the solder down the brass a bit.
    and there is where I left off
    [​IMG]

    cheers
    toto
     
  2. Jan 21, 2018 #42
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Whooo hoooo he's off :tophat:
     
  3. Jan 21, 2018 #43
    ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    :thumbup::facepalm::thumbup::thumbup:
     
  4. Jan 21, 2018 #44
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Yes it's off the mark. I think the 3 mm chisel tip will come into play on the next session. It will help to spread the heat that wee bit further and assist the flow a bit better. The smaller tip is my preference but probably more suitable for mallet parts. It's trying to find a happy medium. The 6 mm is too big and clumsy for me and I end up with solder everywhere.

    These valances are awkward to get right. I'll be glad when they are out of the way. I may have also soldered the buffer beam the wrong way up. Apparently there is a very slight difference between the buffer hole and the top and bottom of the beam. Just noticed that. What a start.

    I wouldn't mind but the buffer beam is pretty well bang on where it is. Could be my first step backwards of many. :facepalm:

    Never mind

    Toto
     
  5. Jan 21, 2018 #45
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Toto - take one of the buffer stops and insert it into the buffer beam, the base of the buffer should be flush with the bottom of the buffer beam.

    If it is the wrong way up, complete the valances and other buffer beam, then remove the wrong one and refit. He's me sounding like I know what I'm doing :whatever: :avatar:

    Paul
     
  6. Jan 22, 2018 #46
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Probably a good idea though as when the other valances are in place, I can just turn it around and butt it up. :thumbs:

    Shall be done.:avatar: good fix.
     
  7. Jan 22, 2018 #47
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    From the look of the solder on the valences you may need a hotter iron, if you are soldering them on the glass panel it may be the glass is acting as a big heat sink. If you can get a piece of 18mm good quality ply, just an off cut big enough to build your biggest kit on, it won't drag the heat out of the joint quite as much.
    Tack the valance, or any other long joint, in 3 or 4 points, front, back and centre, then join the tacks together by moving the iron back and forth along the joint.

    You've made a start mate, well done. Don't get disheartened over mistakes, we've all done them, sort it and crack on :thumbs:.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  8. Jan 22, 2018 #48
    Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I agree with Pete, although you have an aversion to the bigger bit, the blobby soldering is a result of not having enough heat when you need it.

    It's not so much about maximum temperature but the iron's ability to recover and keep applying a set amount of heat. Although I hear what Pete is saying about the possibility of the sheet of glass being a heat sink, I too solder on a similar sheet of glass but my iron/tip is big enough to sustain the heat and get it into the joint quickly.

    Although as you say the bigger tip will spread the solder a bit further than just the joint, it will also spread it thinner making it easier to remove than the thicker blobs.
     
  9. Jan 22, 2018 #49
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks guys. Never thought of the glass. I'll remove that and up the tip size to the 3 mm as I intended.

    :thumbs:
     
  10. Jan 22, 2018 #50
    Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Toto wrote:
    The problem is that ideally you need the glass to ensure that it's flat and square where it should be -I would try with the bigger tip before removing the glass to see how you get on.
     
  11. Jan 22, 2018 #51
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Ok no worries. :thumbs:
     
  12. Jan 22, 2018 #52
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    The main reason for suggesting the 18mm ply is I have some that I've been using for years, it is flat and square, and do'esn't suck the heat out of the iron.
    Every modeller has their own favourite way of doing things, you will find what suits you mate.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  13. Jan 22, 2018 #53
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I've used a piece a 18mm mdf, started off in pristine condition now has quite a few burn marks, but the footplate is very flat.

    Paul
     
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