Hi, Looking at the area on the tie bar where the actuator pin should go through there doesn't seem to be a hole that goes all the way through. Daft question number one. I uppose its just a case of drilling one. ie there ain't nothing in the plastic thats going to be damaged. doesn't look like it to me. Not so daft question number two, I take it the links get cut out if modifying for DCC as you do for OO scale The destruction would point to that but I thought I'd ask the question of anyone who has already done it. Far to expensive to mess up. cheers toto
Hi sol, Maybe a wise move. I've caused havoc with the odd set of OO gauge points but wouldn't want to dig deep again for O gauge. Good to hear from you. Hope all is well with you and the layout. Any more buildings been created lately ? Cheers Toto
Always something to keep you going Sol. Hope the track changes haven't caused to much upheaval. Cheers for now. Toto
Toto I will see if I have a unused Peco point and will photo and mark up what I do with them. now where did I put it. It's in one of those safe places
Ahhhhh ...... Safe places, I've got loads of them. I think I see the links that need removed but I'd rather confirm it. Cheers Chris.
Couple of good youtube videos regarding wiring Peco O gauge points. I'll post them up seprartely. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbPAt-i0oYk Cheers, Gary.
Way to go Gary, There`s always a solution online these days Toto. Easy when you know what to do I would think .?? http://www.clickGormo
I'm impressed with the builting micro switch - just think Toto thats an extra set of contacts for you to play with, interlocking signals, mimic displays mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Nice find on the video's Gary. Paul
paul_l wrote: Does this mean you are offering Toto a complete system to run it all ?? As for the links/videos, thank you. As Gormo aluded to, the solutions are out there on line ! Cheers, Gary.
Gary, I don't think I'll get much choice in the decision process, if his flounderness wants it, then between the sad eyes, pettid lip, and pathetic wimpers it'll probably happen I just try and frighten him every now and then ..... As for the complete system, he has it in his hands - an NCE PowerCab / ProCab, everything else is just addons Paul
Like the videos Gary. I like these micro switches as well. Very handy little things. Petted lip indeed ........ Just tantrums that's all.
Not sure if the 1st video made it clear, but the micro-switch and micro-switch housing are all Peco products. Microswitch - PL33 : http://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-102884/peco-pl-33-enclosed-micro-switch Micro-switch housing - PL19 : http://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-102983/peco-pl-19-microswitch-housing-for-sl-e970bh Cheers, Gary.
Thanks Gary, I wasn't sure at first but caught onto it eventually. These could be handy little switches in many ways actually. You could use them to trigger of all sorts. Cheers Toto
SMR CHRIS wrote: Spare Point found photos below maked up and zoomed in on the links Peco point links for trouble free opperation no electrical week points if it is done this way. Cut the factory links in the first photo and use the tail wire for powering the frog Add links, Like marked in the second photo to provide positive contact this stops the reliance on friction contact at the blades Then you can use a micro switch under the cover at the front of the point to change frog polarity or point switch or a tam valley frog ducer if running DCC for ultimate trouble free opperation no short posibility even if you forget to change the point This will work for DC as well as DCC you will never have a loco stall on the point due to intermittent blade contact. Attached files
Hi Chris, Thanks for confirming that. Not a lot different from OO scale just the links positioned slightly differently. I can follow that no problem. Cheers
