Paul's Nellie

Hi Rob - I had looked at the tanks, not just for ballast but also as a possible locations for the decoder and stayalive.

Todays mission should I accept it is the chassis (as if I have a choice).

Out with the reamer, and open the axle holes for the bushes in both the chassis and the motor mount.

The chassis is then folded in to shape - I also loose fitted the axle bushes and axles to help hold the whole chassis square as I soldered it together - if the axles move freely then the chassis should be square.



Now the most delicate operation to date - reaming out the motor bearing hole in the motor mount. I don't know about the Mashima 1833, but the Canon DN22 motor has very little clearance between the outside edge of the motor bearing and the fastening screws. So again out with the reamer and .....


This a really snug fit, and looking at the screw holes there is probably an allowance for vertical adjustment for meshing, I'm not making the hole any bigger just yet.

Tomorrows task is to fit the motor to the gearbox, and the motor gearbox assembly to the chassis.
Mount the body on to the chassis and adjust the motor / gbox assy to clear the body then tag the motor mount to one side of the chassis. Remove the motor and complete the soldering of the motor mount to the chassis.

Time for a good nights sleep - maybe

Paul

 

Euston we have a problem

Although the pitch of the motor mount holes matches the inner Canon motor holes, these ones aren't tapped

So the options are to drill new holes in the motor mount or tap the other holes. The first option is probably the one I will go with. But just in case, I've ordered up a set of small Taps, including an M2.

I also have a Roxey Moulding motor mount which may not be suitable at all for the Canon motor.
Maybe I have found the ideal candidate for my first machining exercise when I've sussed out how to program it .

Paul

 

Hi Toto

On checking the 3 Canon motors I have - the top and bottom holes are tapped M2, the two center holes - which align with the motor mount are not tapped.



The central bush is 9.95mm dia (nominal 10mm) against the Mashima 5.98mm dia (nominal 6mm).

Although I have ordered up M2 taps, I don't really fancy the idea of running a tap in to an assembled motor. As the kits motor mount is quite high, I decided to make up a drilling jig for the top and bottom holes.



I 3D printed it to be 24mm wide to fit snugly between the chassis frames, the 2.2mm dia holes on 15mm centers and a 9.95mm dia center spigot to go through the motor mount hole,



Now just have to find a 2mm drill to make the holes.

Good news is the plunger pickups have arrived.

Paul

 

Slaters ordered Sat arrived Wed.

C&L ordered and paid for 15th Dec. STILL waiting order status is processing and has been since the 15th Dec, they don't answer their contact forms or the phone.

One very brassed off customer

Paul

 

Cheers Pete

I will look at them, I'm just happy when I saw the bank transfer only method of payment I cut my order down from almost £200 to £43. phew.

And by not getting any confirmation from them of receipt of payment, I'll be too late to get the bank to do anything about it.

Back to the loco, I'll post a couple of pics later, I've gone off piste again, and turned the motor the other way up, boy do you get more room.

Paul

 

Ok .... so what have I been pontificating on this time ?

Well, Jim's excellent kit is designed to use the Mashima 1833 motor, but these are like hen's teeth to get hold of, my previous posts have shown how I modified the motor mount to take the Canon motor.

The next step is to tack solder the motor mount into position, remove the motor and run proper seams to locate the motor mount into position - simples, well it was until I used screws at 90 degrees to the original position.

This is how the motor is supposed to be mounted



and the well thought out design has cut outs in the frame spacers to allow access to the mounting screws



Unfortunately my mounting screws are blocked by the spacer and the axle

Luckily my dremel got put away somewhere safe just before xmas, and if it stays that safe it my appear on next years Santa's wish list, so I tried spinning the motor mount round, and got ......



Putting in the brake hanger wire gave the mount something to rest on while I fitted the body



There's clearance of a couple of mm at the top of the motor and I can get access to the mounting screws



And there is plenty of space to fit the decoder and stay alive in front of the motor .



I can see the motor is close to the backhead, but all is good



Any thoughts or anything I may have missed before I get the soldering iron out of its holster.

Paul

 

Well that's the way I went



It's been running under power 30 min in each direction for over 3 hours, motor cool and running quite smoothly.

One consequence of mounting it this way, I will need to model the bottom half of the backhead, to allow for motor clearance the lower part of the backhead is missing from the casting.



there's always something else

Paul