There doesn't appear to be a forum regarding trackwork, so I've put this in here. I bought two of these at the end of January, but have only just got around to taking them out of their packaging. First thing I noticed is that there is no closure rail, the switch rail joins straight on to the frog. Now you might think the two small section of rail between the end of the switch rails and the small plastic part of the frog are the closure rails, but nope... the way Peco have wired it, they're part of the frog. The other thing to note is that there is no factory fitted frog wire. Unless you want to try and solder to the small factory fitted link wires within the frog (I'd probably end up breaking them), the only way I can see of attaching a wire to be able to switch the frog and not rely totally on the point blades, is to cut the webbing somewhere similar to the area circled below to solder a new wire on. I was just wondering if anyone else had come across these and knew of a different way of doing it. Ed
Ed, I always treated the Y points the same as any other. Link the outside running rails to the switch rails (remove a bit of webbing and use a small piece of brass rod to connect, or wire). Remove both small wires at the switch rail end, twist together to form a dropper, this then becomes the frog wire, and then don't forget to fit 2x insulated rail joiners to the centre two frog rails.Does that help you?Kim
Sorry Kim, no. The bit of rail your talking about is what I would call the closure rail. The bit that goes between the moving part of the switch rail and the frog. It doesn't exist in this particular version of the Y point. I've emailed Peco and I'll post their reply when I get it. Ed
I've just had a reply from A. Beard at Peco, and I quote: "You are correct that the small radius Y point is different as compared with our standard l/h and r/h points. This is the current design of this type of point. Due to the different type of point blades and tiebar used in the small Y point there is no requirement to cut rails/wires, but you can add an auxiliary switch as a 'belt and braces' type arrangement to power the frog polarity if you wish, the wiring being the same as shown on the instruction sheet." There is an offer to phone them with any further questions, but basically they expect you to solder a wire to the minute wires they have linking the parts of the frog, as per the instructions. Think I'll cut a bit of the webbing. Ed
Hi Ed I think a track section is a great idea, I'll mention it to Toto and see what could be done. Paul
Sounds fine with me. I have a set of these in code 75 so I'm interested as to how this pans out. We can create a dedicated rail section. If you can give us a n evening or so to get it done. It won't take long. I'd probably solder as you have indicated Ed but I'll bet someone has a better solution. Cheers Toto Ps if we get the rail section going, we can have a bit for hand built track as well. Cover all eventualities.
Hi Ed, thanks for the suggestion, as you can see I've created a permanent way section and moved your post in. cheers toto
Code 75 small wye is even simpler and includes the frog polarity wire. I only soldered on additional bus wires, + & -, then installed them on the layout like any other electrofrog point. Cheers, Gary.
Trust me to find something that isn't covered in existing forum subjects, you haven't been up and running long and I've already broken it . I've cut the webbing, soldered a (white) wire to part of the frog and routed it along the already hollow sleeper. (Please ignore the two large white mains cables in the background, but I was having trouble yesterday trying to find somewhere to take a picture, as it was too sunny!..................................................... yes, you did read it right, it was TOO SUNNY. Was having problems with shadows and camera focus on my cheap second hand FinePix ) Begs the question, why on earth do Peco provide a frog wire on Code 75 and not Code 100. Ed
