Just ordered up a scroll saw. I'll post the usual pictures when it arrives. I'm going to be tempting a few buildings very soon and some will have a fair few openings for Windows and doors. I think I am going to be trying them in thin ply so I'm hoping the scroll saw will prove its worth in trying to keep things heat. Cheers for now Toto.
Depending on the ply thickness, I've used a Stanley knife for straight cuts. The 3mm ply I'm building my Wheeldon workshop with cuts really well. Glueing the flippin' thing together is another matter . Pete.
Very useful tool a scroll saw, the longer you have it the more tasks you can find for it. Almost bought a Scheppach one, but hadn't heard of the brand and not many places in Aus sells them. Ended up buying the Hare and Forbes brand one, bit dearer but had an extra 2" reach on the arm. Pretty sure the Scheppach has the ability to use pinless blades, this is important if you want to do really fine work with spiral blades that cut in all directions, not just forwards, this is where the spiral saw comes into its own. Using pin blades can restrict you in choice of blades and you need a bigger hole cut to get the pins through if you are making windows etc. Cheers Tony
Hi Pete, I've used a Stanley knife in the past but it does not really give the kind of clean cuts around Windows and doors. I want a nice flat finish for wrapping paper around etc. A little finish with a bit abrasive paper is fine but no more than that. Hopefully it will do the job and make it quicker as well.
sweet - it even has an attachment to blow the cigarette smoke in to your eyes, to give you an excuse for not following the lines Nice looking piece of kit, even with speed control. What type of blades does it use ? Paul
HI Toto would you say the scroll saw - is a good buy ??? I have in the next few weeks - to make up some station buildings in o gauge using 1/4 ply, my main question -does it stay on the drawn lines /straight line - thanks regards Dave
That looks the biz mate, I have one, an el-cheapo version, like you say they are noisy! mine also vibrates enough to shake out your fillings. Pete.
Hi Dave. If I'm being honest, I bought it to scroll out window apertures etc on smaller projects, buildings and the like but I think a smaller one would be better. I think I have greater control with my jigsaw. The blade is too bendy if you start going off courses. Ok the smarter amongst us may say ........ Well don't Go off course but ....... The jury is out mate. I'd recommend having a good scout about at smaller models that may be on the market. Perhaps one of proxxons scroll saws. More expensive but I think would do a better job. Either that or one of these palm size jigsaws possibly. I think they'd be more useful. Let me know what you go for. Cheers Toto
The variable speed will help to cut down the vibration, making it easier to control, and in the case of perspex keep the heat down. You could fix a fence to the table to help you keep straight lines. As ever practice, practice and more practice. MDF and hardboard may be better materials to start off on, as plywood and other wood products have grain and that can tent to pull the blade off track. Paul
thanks guys - will still look around then -- I use a scheppach saw with aluminium track for base boards - fantastic bit of kit - so I thought ???/// and that's when the trouble started --ha ha regards Dave
Cutting perspex is never easy, too fast a speed and the cut 'welds' itself closed after the blade passes because of the heat generated, too slow a cut and the material just jumps around making it hard to cut to a line. Keith.
Aww - you shouldn't have told him that until after he's tried, and then said "I could have told you that !" Paul
A fence is definitely a good idea for straight cuts as the blades on scroll saws can bend and flex quite easily, so it`s easy to move off line. http://www.clickGormo
Another trick would be to half cut through the line with a sharp knife, then the scroll saw blade should follow the cut, might be worth a practice on a bit of scrap ply. Pete.
Keith M wrote: A skip-tooth blade might do the job, in the distant past I used one on a 30" band saw to cut thick stuff. If they are not available for scroll saws then you might take out the tip of every other tooth with a Dremel disc, but I suppose that unlike a band saw there are only a comparatively small number of teeth in play to mess about with. Just thinking, perhaps Google 'skip blades' for ideas? Doug
Good idea with the knife Pete. Hi Doug. I have heard of skip blades before. I will look them up. Nice to hear from you again. Hope all is well. Cheers Toto
