Shunting Puzzle Plank

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by ed, Nov 12, 2016.

  1. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Lookin` Good Ed,
    As the lads are saying, you won`t see the slot in the wrong place once the track and scenery goes on.
    I have been caught out with subtle differences in point design too. What appears to be the same is not necessarily so.
    http://www.click:tophat:Gormo
     
  2. ed

    ed Full Member

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    To make the slots, I've been drilling four 3mm holes in a row and then joining them up with a Stanley knife and filing to shape.

    Don't trust my trackwork positioning to be accurate enough to drill one hole :lol:

    I then like to paint the wood where I've cut the slot and it's waiting for paint to dry that takes the time.

    Next job is to get some droppers soldered and the track stuck down.

    Until I get power to the track and I know the puzzle will work, I can't really do anything on scenery etc. and I've still got to take a decision on couplings. Kadee, or small tension lock with staple.

    Either way the wagons I'm going to use will need new couplings.

    Ed
     
  3. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Sounds if your getting on with it Ed! I painted my plank with brown emulsion before I laid any track, that covered up pencil lines, point holes etc and a good basic colour to start work on. (that's the Hinchcliffe plank!)
    CheersRon
     
  4. ed

    ed Full Member

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    It's just painted with white primer/undercoat at present Ron, more to protect the wood than anything else.

    I did think about a coat of emulsion on the top, but all we had lying around were light colours used on the walls.

    I'll just have to paint around the track when I get as far as some sort of scenery,.

    Ed
     
  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Ed

    I usually drill a fine hole (approx 1mm) at each end of the tie bar, and through tie bar hole at each end of the point throw. Then joint the holes with a line and use a dremel with a dental burr to cut the slot roughly 2mm past each of the tie bar hole holes from the underside. As my baseboard top is 6mm ply, with 5mm foam insulation for underlay, I use the dremel until I reach the 5mm foam, and finish off with a scalpel and stiff piece of wire.

    Paul
     
  6. ed

    ed Full Member

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    Couple of rather dark pictures from last week (sunset is a bit early this time of year).

    All track down

    [​IMG]

    and wiring done.

    [​IMG]

    With a view to using what I already have and not buying too much, I thought about GEM Mercontrol for controlling the points.

    Although I had enough levers and wire I didn't have enough PTFE tubing, so I've used some stiff garden wire, screw eyes and beads left over from previous testing on Latton Fields.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Choc block 'inards' connect the wire to bent paper clips through the tie bar, which should allow for any future adjustment.

    (I know the point control wire looks very near the bus wires but believe me it isn't, it's just the camera angle.)

    Just wondering how cheaply I can do this, as so far I've only bought:

    Wood and Screws (Wickes) £15.77
    Folding Table (Argos) for legs (I already had one) £7.99
    Rail joiners, as I'd run out (eBay) £2.90
    Two points as I needed one, and one I already had broke (eBay) £13.50
    I was going to use the Gaugemaster Model D from the garage to power this, but as I had some Amazon vouchers left from a recent birthday so I've bought a Gaugemaster Combi for an additional £11.21.

    Wiring was all left overs from Latton Fields.

    Loco(s) and wagons, redundant items from Latton Fields.

    Total so far, £51.37.

    Can I get the puzzle working and a bit of scenery done for less than £100 :scratchchin:

    Ed
     
  7. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    You'll have trains running before you know it Ed. Have you got a time frame on this build ??

    That last comment "Can I get the puzzle working and a bit of scenery done for less than £100..?", sounds like a great idea for a competition...?? The Under £100 Layout ! ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  8. ed

    ed Full Member

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    No time frame Gary, just something to work on while it's too cold in the garage.

    I have some plans for Latton Filelds, but it'll have to wait until the warmer weather next year.

    Problem with making something like this a competition is, it rather depends what anyone already has left 'in stock' from previous projects.

    Ed
     
  9. ed

    ed Full Member

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    I decided before Christmas that I would need some additional motive power for the puzzle plank as the 0-4-0s I have, just wont run through the insulfrog points without stalling at the sort of low speeds required.

    I already have a Bachmann J72 which I had (eventually) chipped for DCC operation, but with the change of theme on Latton Fields I un-DCCed it and screwed some Kadees on in place of the tension locks.

    (sorry about dark pictures)

    [​IMG]

    I had a search around that well know auction site for some more 0-6-0s, which with more wheels and pickups aren't a problem through the insulfrog points and managed to win ...

    [​IMG]

    Needs a clean and Kadees fitting but it's the older Hornby J13 version based on the jinty chassis (ol' reliable), not the newer J52 which has traction tyres, and it sort of sticks to a LNER theme.

    I also found this........

    [​IMG]

    What a beauty, don't think it's ever been run apart from testing. Geared brilliantly for shunting, runs really slow even at full power.

    Of course that got me interested in a bit of history.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wemyss_Private_Railway

    Fascinating stuff.

    Since I didn't really need more than 1 loco I'm not including these in my £100 budget for the plank.

    My game, my rules,................ and I don't care :lol:

    Well, it is Christmas.

    Ed
     
  10. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Ed you have made great progress
    Stock looks just right for shunting
    I do have a liking for the Austerity tanks or J94's a no nonsense loco. :thumbs:
    Looking forward to more updates

    http://www.click
     
  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Nice eclectic selection of loco's in the correct shade of green as well - what more could you ask for :avatar:
     
  12. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    That`s coming along nicely Ed,

    A good solution with the manual points. It reminds me a bit of Murray`s layout control system. Murray was Gary`s friend and I now have part of his railway.

    I like the idea of a fixed price limit build. As the guys are saying it would be a good theme for a competition and would encourage recycling and innovation.

    http://www.click :tophat:Gormo
     
  13. ed

    ed Full Member

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    Been mainly playing with Kadees over Christmas.

    I’ve used #5s for the wagons and although the draft boxes stick out a bit, they’re cheap and work pretty well.

    The Bachmann J72 has #18s fitted by drilling a hole through the coupling and reusing the original screws.

    The Hornby Austerity (J94) has a #18 on the front and a #19 on the back using the same method.

    Tried both the Kadee 321 and rows of 5 x 3mm Cube Neodymium magnets.

    Don’t know how everyone seems to get 3mm cube magnets to operate when flush with the sleepers but mine are N35 and won’t operate the couplings without a thin strip of styrene underneath to raise them slightly.

    The J94 must have deeper flanges than the J72 as it’s wheels kept catching on the now raised cube magnets, but didn’t have a problem with the Kadee 321.

    Finally the penny dropped that although the top of the Kadee 321 magnet is 0.4mm above the rail top on code 100 rail, it’s only 13mm wide.

    I could have altered the back to back on the J94, but doubted my ability to move the wheels by a fraction of a millimetre after taking it all apart.

    The answer was to shorten the row of magnets by getting some 2mm x 3mm x 3mm Neodymium magnets.

    Three 3mm cubes plus two 2mm cubes is 13mm, same as the width of the Kadee 321.

    Couplings appear to be working ok and the wheels don’t catch the magnets.

    [​IMG]

    Bit messy, but I've glued and removed magnets quite a few times between these sleepers.

    Bit of ballast, lick of paint, it'll do :avatar:

    Kadee 321 down the other end.

    [​IMG]

    Bit of foam against the axle of a van to act as a brake.

    [​IMG]

    Old coins no longer legal tender, acting as temporary weights.

    [​IMG]

    I already had some Kadees in stock, so if I say add £10 to the cost of the plank it's now around £70.

    Don't think I'll manage scenery as well for less than the target though.

    Ed
     
  14. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Have you set the height of the tails on the Kadees correctly ? I found that with some of my stock, I had to bend them down slightly, whereas other stock sit too low and catch on the chairs... :oops:

    Edit..., (thanks Ed)

    Google Kadee or Kadee Couplers, click on couplers then scroll down to NEM 362 Couplers. Here it will show you the required tail height above rail level.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  15. ed

    ed Full Member

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    I could bend the trip pins down Gary, but then they would hit the Kadee 321 magnet.

    I am using both, but if everyone that has swapped to Neodymium cubes has bent the trip pins down, it would explain why it wont work at sleeper height for me.

    Alternatively, some people may have used N52 magnets.

    Ed

    Edit: PS that link don't work:avatar:

    but I know the document your talking about.
     
  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A bit of trial and error Ed but it will be worth it, especially on a layout like that. Think of the play ......erm .......testing potential. Keep the updates coming good Sir.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  17. ed

    ed Full Member

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    Made a slightly tidier job of the next one.

    [​IMG]

    Ed
     
  18. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    As long as it works Ed, that's the main thing! :)
     
  19. ed

    ed Full Member

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    Fiddly job though Ron.

    I did try just four 3mm x 3mm x 3mm cubes to give a 12mm wide magnet and the trip pins don't quite work properly.

    The Kadee magnet is 13mm wide, so it's probably the minimum width that will work.

    I still think Gary's vertical version is probably much easier to install.

    Ed
     
  20. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looks fine to me Ed. sounds like you've got the optimum settings worked out as well.

    Good work kind Sir

    Toto
     

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