Steve Beattie kit NBL Class 21 build

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by York Paul, Aug 17, 2018.

  1. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Great to see the 21 progressing again York Paul. It does look a very snug fit. Looking forward to seeing what you do with the marker lights.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  2. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Well the plan is twofold, basically I'd like to install clear and red directional marker lights using Nano LED's as I think this will enhance the loco greatly... I'm not confirmed at the moment about lighting the discs and the arrangement for DCC conversion, let me think on a bit on that front. So the plan is to drill through the marker positions and insert 2mm brass micro tube which will be soldered to a back plate and then located behind the resin piece to stop light bleed through. The 2mm micro tube will stand proud by 0.25mm over the front face of the blunt nose to represent the lamp bezel and the globe will be made with a drop of clear embedding resin, the nano's should fit nicely inside and out of the way of the drivers cab desk when that is fitted. That's the plan anyway... fingers crossed.:thumbs:
     
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  3. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'll look forward to seeing it develop York Paul. Sounds good.

    Toto
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Paul, they do look good, all down to Steve's excellent 3D files.

    To secure them the concensus seems to be either superglue, or epoxy. As for painting, the usual primers will be fine.

    Looking forward to seeing this with a coat of paint.

    Paul
     
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  5. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Thanks Paul, that's what makes these kits in the design is that Steve's meticulous research sets a high bench standard. I'll go with epoxy with a keyed in brass contact area. Once these noses are in position I can put the handrail inserts on which will strengthen the cab sides and then I can add in the buffer headstock. At that point we will be cooking on gas as far as the bodyshell goes.
     
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  6. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Just a couple of close ups of the motor mount assembly as Kimbo asks how I do this, pictures hopefully show how I made a floating base for this particular loco which employs a whitemetal frame laminated with an etched brass inner one.



    This weekend will see work recommence on the new nose castings being fitted, my apologies for absence to all who may have been following this build but I have been extremely busy on planning and starting a new house refurb project which we want to turn round in time for a Spring sale.
     
  7. Gary

    Gary Will the real Gary please stand up... Staff Member Administrator

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    Now that is collective modelling. Well done to all involved. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    So back to the build after giving some serious thought as to the best way forward working with the resin prints which is new material for me, in the end I decided to just provide the marker lights and omit the headcode disc lamps as being just too complex and involved right now. I drilled the resin nose end lamp positions to 1.7mm dia which then gave me the corresponding points for drilling on a brass back plate which would have two tiny lengths of micro tube fitted to take the LEDs, the micro tube has an internal bore of 0.6mm. The picture also shows a nano LED with a couple of 3mm offcuts of silicone wire insulation, the newly scratched brass back plate (not included in the kit) and the as yet unfettled resin cab desk casting which I can drill into the back of to give clearance for the marker lighting points.


    Here is the brass back plate which acts as a baffle to prevent light "bleed through" from the resin nose print, I used Roket glue to fix the tiny silicone LED carrier and the micro tube has been soldered in from behind. I think the external diameter of the micro tube is about 1.6mm... so its all very minute stuff.

     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2018 at 7:40 PM
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  9. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    The backplate fits snugly inside the moulded inner edge profile of the resin print, if it overlapped then the nose could not align with the cab window etch properly, also the tiny nano LED which is just 1mm in size can be seen fitted inside the silicone sleeve, room for this can be accommodated by drilling into the rear of the resin cab desk casting where ample depth is available. The brass back plate is held in position by the micro tube extension pieces, it is removable from the nose casting in case I ever need to replace the LEDs.


    Just a quick test to see if the new resin print fits the cab sides... and it does nicely so cheers to Steve Beattie for his superb design work :thumbs:. this is the incomplete number two cab end of this model, I've yet to finish the roof profile and add in gutters and roof banding.


    And finally the front face of the new resin print (a big thank you here to Paul_L for this) with the brass micro tube profiled on its end to resemble the marker lamp cases, Later on in this build I shall drop in some clear embeding resin to create the glass bowl effect. so now its waiting for the Roket glue on these two items to dry and then having soldered in the inset hand rails (adding strength to the cab sides) I shall then finally glue these nose ends in place and shape up the buffer shroud.

     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2018 at 9:24 PM
  10. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    What a build. So impressive. Great thinking and quality modifications which I'm sure when finished shall provide a first class model of the original. Delighted to see it progressing again.

    :thumbs:
     
  11. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    Thanks Toto, this one has probably been stopped a bit too long, anyway main thing is I know this mod will work properly so its just a case of carrying on with building up the bodyshell now and dressing the bogies prior to primer painting. :thumbs:
     
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  12. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Bring it on Sir :thumbs:
     
  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Must admit I'd have painted the nose with a matt black undercoat, before gluing the lights in place.

    I have some Grey & Clear resin to try, the Grey is opaque so should stop light passing through (this may also effect cure times as the uv light cant pass through), the clear may get tried for a Cab front & roof, if I paint the outside, and light up the resin then the lamps and cab interior should illuminate - worth a try at least.

    Very impressive grasshopper

    Paul
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Full Member

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    LEDs are not fitted as yet and the actual brass baffle plate is removable too, I tend to think a coat of primer should only be applied when the whole bodyshell is dressed. The baffle plate is necessary to hold the micro tubes in position which define the lamp case bezels within the apertures of the resin nose print.
     
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