Talerddig - micro layout

I'm sure there'll be plenty more questions about wiring and electrics to come!

I set myself up a circle of track yesterday to run in some locos and to reacquaint myself with soldering wires to track.

Finally, just to prove the run round loop is big enough...



Matt

 

Last boring post I hope!

I've got the plan to where I'm reasonably satisfied with positioning of the points. Although it's a very simple trackplan, the small space means it's taken quite a bit of juggling to get things in the right place. A quick mock up using flex track to give an impression of the overall plan:



And a Google-earth style shot to put it in context with the board and backscene:



Matt

 

Hi both,

I'm using the rival package - "cr@prail" (©) which is specifically designed to provide old skool results with wobbly lines.

In all seriousness, I only have a phone for all internet/computer access - I don't have a PC - hence having to do it the old fashioned way.

Matt

 

It would definitely make things easier, especially given the limited space which means limited room for error!

One day I will own a PC and printer...!

If I can get the track laid and not ruin things I'm going to award myself the "golden cup for tracklaying" award (totally worthless and totally unrecognised across the world!) for laying track in dodgy conditions!

Matt

 

By the way, if anyone else wants to use cr@prail (©), it's totally free to use!

 

Quick question:

My layout to fiddle yard scenic break will be the ubiquitous overbridge using Wills plate girder sections.

I am planning on my platform and station building being of brick construction. Do you think the bridge pillars/walls would also have been brick or could they be something else e.g stone?

Thanks

Matt

 

Thanks again Gary for your continued interest and information. I think I'lI go for stone for a bit of variation.

As a break from fiddling with track, cork and paper, I took some time today to continue working on my Lima CCT.

I've replaced all of the door grab handles with 0.33 wire and I've also added grab handles to the ends as per the prototype. Fiddly but worth the effort in my opinion.

I've also added couplings and removed the moulded seams from the buffers and bufferbeams.

Just needs reglazing and paintjob now to complete. Still not totally convinced with the South Eastern Finecast flushglazing but equally not sure if I can be bothered cutting my own.



Matt

 

Hopefully this illustrates my point with the SE Finecast flushglazing - quick and easy (compared to cutting it from clear plastic) but not totally convincing.



It's the top of the window that gives it away in my opinion. You'll notice I've simulated the door windows as being open to try and bring a bit of "life" to the model.

Matt

 

That's exactly it Paul - the curved edges catch the light in a way that just doesn't look right.

I wanted to use the Lazerglaze set for this but can't find anywhere that stocks it.

Matt

 

Good suggestion - I don't have any glue n glaze but I was thinking of using Klear and flooding the edges of the window and seeing what happens...

 

I have an unopened bottle and one three quarters full...not boasting or anything

 

Hi all,

Could someone explain, in language that a novice like myself can understand, what the purpose is of the circled wires on the underside of a Peco electrofrog point are?

I've read the instructions, looked online and watched various YouTube videos and am still non the wiser.

Also what are the benefits of leaving them alone compared to doing something with them?

Thanks

Matt