gormo wrote: Hi Gormo, the 3mm mdf isn,t so hard to cut, if you mark out the opening you want, then drill some holes in the opening but leaving a bit of material between the hole and where you,ve marked the opening then join the holes up, that will leave you with a ragged hole that you can open up to where you want it, use a very sharp blade and take small amounts out and the job will be a guddun, its like cutting stiff card once you,ve got the middle out. Pete.
Foam board is really good for our hobby but for some reason it can sometimes be a bu&%er to get a square cut through it, try and use a scalpel type blade rather than a stanley type and take more time cutting, 2or 3 passes with the knife, try and keep the blade vertical, I find if I stand right over the work piece, look down both eyes open and keep an equal view of the blade, ( try it you will see what I mean ) , I get a nice square cut, most of the time, anyway. Cheers, Pete. Ps, nearly forgot, it can take contact adhesive if you keep it away from the foam core, for fixing plasticard to it.
Just before going to bed I laid the track and left overnight to set. Usually I dont use the fishplates for electrical connections, but until the boards are split so I can pass the wires through to connect to the correct block section, they will have to do (I have put solder into the joint). I now need to fit the back wall, but before that all the widow apertures need to be cut and the inner brick paper added. Done, now the sills The row of headers from the Red brick paper was cut off, then scored on the underside to allow it to be bent. Then cut to length with 1 brick beyond the window aperture. For the red brick paper I went round the edges with the Spectrum Noir BG4 from the warm grey set. Same repeated for the white painted brick, but used the IG4 pen from the cool greys set. A center butress to cover the join between the two sections, was formed by wrapping brick paper round a 15mm wide piece of card (recycled mince pie box), selecting a section of brick paper that matched the walls. Windows were made up from sicky labels, then the two halves glued together and allowed to dry - damn, I forgot to varnish it before sticking on the windows, I'll just have to be carefull Paul
Hi Paul, looking the bee's knee's. would it be easy enough to build out the header rows and window sills by gluing some thin card behind them in order to give a bit depth to them. just a thought. I may try this on my warehouse build when I make a start to it. cheers toto.
As if by magic the glue has dried, and looks like this Inner wall outer wall and a couple of test fits I have cut the inner loading bays on the front wall, just need to mark out where the red and white bricks will be. The track will be getting cobble stones fitted. Plus an inner platform. Paul
Hi Toto Wrapping around card is the recommended method for most of the Scalescene kits. I just find it looks a bit too deep, that and its a PITA trying to wrap the paper round it, so I used 180gsm paper this time for a test, and I quite happy with it. Paul
The scalpel has had a rest this evening, I had to go into the loft and brought a few goodies down stairs. Viccy Rd has had a couple of wayward visitors Now to put them away so I don't get distracted Paul
This is looking very good Paul. It's amazing how quickly a few buildings and knocking off the retaining walls can transform the layout. Those visitors you have. have travelled far and wide to get to Victoria Road ! Now, I think you need an Aussie loco to grace Victoria Road ! Cheers, Gary.
Really nice locos there Paul. I think I can see where you are going with the next layout. I would be with a couple of stunners like that. great stuff. cheers toto
Slow progress, but made the windows for the top floor front. I cheated (of course), I did try and use the Scalescene factory window sheet, but my printer / printable acetate sheet combo didn't produce very good results - the blacks were a transparent grey, and at approx 80p per sheet I wasn't going to play around. So I made the windows out of sticky labels, but cut them with my KnK Zing, cutter - about time it earned its keep. The window was designed using the "Make the Cut" software, and is made of three layers The label is placed on the cutting mat, and then cut. Before removing from the mat, I colour the label using Spectrum Noir pens TB3 blue, then while still wet, IG4 cool grey this gives a blending of the colours. Assembly is straight forward 1st layer - frame plus bars is stuck to acetate sheet The overlay is then laid over the 1st layer. Then turned over and the second overlay applied to the under side. Then any further stainging added as required. Paul
Lovely work Paul, makes me want to get back into some scalescenes builds! Following along. Keep it coming. cheers Marty PS... love the loading/unloading shed... unique and therefore sooo much better.
Windows look great from the KnK Zing cutter. Have you considered doing on-offs for members here ?? I know that I would be interested in a few sheets. Cheers, Gary.
Hi Gary What are you needing ? ----------------------- Started to apply the brick base layers for the front outside wall When dry I will put concrete lintels above the loading bays - again from the Scalescene TX05 painted brick sheet. Note, Scalescene have revamped several of their brickpapers, before the brick paper was a single sheet with a row of headers along one edge, and sills, lintels etc along the other. The new revamped versions have 4 sheets within the pdf file, 1. a full sheet of bricks, 2. a sheet with strips of coping, lintels and sills, and two 35mm strips opf stretcher bond for chineys. 3. a sheet of Arches and 4. a sheet of cutting templates for the arches - great value. The two loading bays will have woodern kick boards. For these I used a coffee stirrer, given a coat of Humbrol Dark Brown Enamel wash, left for a few minutes (however long it took for me to get past those infernal child proof lids), then wiped off with Humbrol enamel thinners. The one in the middle is there t5o show before and after. I think the rough texture of the stirrer also helps. Paul
Boy does this seem to be taking ages What time was available today seems to have been spent making surrounds and buttresses for the front of the building (still got the rear wall to do ), oh and the final panel to make the front the same size as the rear. Just have to make another panel, to complete the left hand side, then give it a coat of varnish before glazing. Oh well back to making ledges ..... Paul
Paul, That`s a top job on those windows and the build is coming along nicely. That`s the trouble with a scratch build .....everything has to be made and it takes a long time.....but you finish up with something unique. http://www.click Gormo
Beautiful so far Paul. To be totally honest, I was and still am to some extent, a hardcore styrene scratchbuilder. Then I found Scalescenes and I must admit that they are very versatile kits. I must have 10 or 12 kits and about 20 different textures etc from the Scratchbuilders yard. With all this, anything is possible ! Cheers, Gary. ps. Gormo, you got to get your self a kit and have a go !
Cheers guy's Gormo, I'm with Gary here, get yourself one of the free downloads - the weighbridge / coal office is a good one as well and available in several finishes, and have a go. Warning they are addictive, and after building a couple, delusions of granduer can follow where get idea's to build inner city areas - damn, wish I'd seen that warning. 1st job done coat of varnish applied, now watching paint dry Paul