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jakesdad13
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This is my introduction to my "O" gauge industrial shunting layout (or plank), Wheeldon Mill, it is loosely based on the steel works near Chesterfield Derbyshire in the UK called Stanton and Staveley Coal and Iron works, now just a distant memory, Wheeldon is a real place though it never played a role in the production of iron or steel it did have a railway running through it, the Great Central loop that closed in the `60s and very little now remains.The layout is 11ft6ins long by 2ft deep, trackwork is peco and points a mixture of peco copper clad and C&L, thats the basics I will go into more detail later in the thread as it develops.Just one photo to start as I think I may have to re-size my photos before uploading, this is the left hand end all track work will be infilled eventually after magnets and re-wiring for DCC.



Cheers for now, Pete.    

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Hi Pete,

What rolling stock will you be running on the layout ?

Cheers

Toto

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Hi Pete,

I'm looking forward to your thread as I have recently purchased a Lima set, consisting of a 4F with wagons, then I purchased a Lima Class 33. The only track I have is the circle that came with the set...
This thread, will be very inspiring to a new modeller of O gauge. :thumbsup:

Cheers, Gary.

jakesdad13
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Hi Tom, thanks for the interest, I have three 040 steam shunters,and two diesel shunters, it will be freight only mostly open wagons, I may have to build a few more as I only have around a dozen or so mind you I have been thinking of painting and lettering the sides differently so I can turn them round and it looks like a different wagon, we will see.

Hi Gary, I hope I can live up to your expectations, its going to be a long build, luckily I have got a good start on it, the track is down I have wired it but I need to make sure its ok for DCC as at the moment its a DC layout, I have read some where that all I need to do is switch on all the sections and I am good to go but with my luck I will burn the whole layout down to the ground! Some of the buildings are well on the way but need finishing, I still haven,t decided where the right hand end of the layout is heading I have a few ideas bouncing around in my head.The locos I have are one finished and running with DCC sound, one nearly complete, my Andrew Barclay, a kit for an 0-4-0 Peckett, a Lima diesel shunter I have Anglicised and an old 03 diesel shunter kit I bought then found only half of it was there,I have got some of the parts to scratch build the chassis though so not too bad.

I will try and find a couple of photos of the real Staveley works to give an idea of what I am trying to achieve.

By for now, Pete.        

jakesdad13
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Here are a few photos of Staveley works just after closure and while being demolished, apologies for the picture qualities they are photos of photos but should give an idea of the effects I will aim for.








If I can get the grubby run down feel of the site I will be chuffed to bits :giggle: time will tell.

Cheers, Pete. 

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Pete...

If I can make a little suggestion... why don't you leave it all wired up as DC with all sections switchable... then... where the two main DC wires enter the layout, wire these to a DPDT switch and have the other two legs wired to your DCC feed - Result: a switchable either or layout and all that needs doing is a DPDT switch... all you'd need to do to get it to DCC is throw the DPDT and ensure all isolated sections are switched to live... saves all the work and you get a better end result... jobs a good 'un.....

jakesdad13
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Cheers Mike, I will give it a go, anything for an easier life thats my motto!

Pete.

jakesdad13
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A couple or so pics of the overall set up of the layout.


sorry about the messy workshop!
looking toward the sector plate under the bridge.


the track leads from the sector plate behind the buildings to a two road fiddle.


thats it for now I,ve got to get dinner on.
Cheers, Pete.

Keith M
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Nice one Pete, watching this one with interest as Wife worked at Staveley works many many moons ago!
Keith.

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Hi pete

good stuff. I like the ballasting. well compacted between the sleepers. looks well worn and settled in.

these prototype buildings will keep you busy. great opportunities there though. keep us updated.

cheers

toto

jakesdad13
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As part of the foundry I have started to build a small iron smelter, it will mostly be inside another building I have yet to start but I couldn,t help but put detail into it that probably will not be visible, anyway here,s a couple of photo,s  of how far I am up to now.


as you can see it,s nothing fancy, I did try and roll a cone for the top without success so I have cut down an old funnel which seems to have done the trick, I did enjoy emptying the body of the smelter.


The frame is built from plastic I beams with decking made from layers of card with Slaters chequer plate plasticard glued on.


The brick work around the base is from photos and film I have seen.This shows where it will be positioned (roughly) when it is finished and in place.

On the building next to it I have made a (non working) sliding door, I will show a couple of pic,s how I did that in a later post.
I have clad the body of the smelter in plasticard that I scored sheets of riveted iron, with the rivets pressed out from behind.

To get it to roll round the tube I very carefully rolled it so as not to crack it on the scored sections, stuffed it inside a second tube, filled that with boiling water and left it for a few seconds before tipping it out and refilling with cold water, when I took it out it remained curled and is on the tube as shown without any adhesive, I will stick it in place eventually as a belt and braces fix.  

Anyway thats it for now, cheers back later.   Pete.

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Coming on a treat. I think you've done this before.:avatar:

Keep us posted.

Cheers

Toto

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Now that looks really Interesting Pete ! a nice and unique scratch build. I know its such a hardship emptying the raw materials but someone has to do it  :thumbs:
   Cheers
       Matt

Gary
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Fantastic scratchbuilding. Very hot water comes in handy for bending styrene sheet. I used this method for bending handrails on my cement silo. :thumbsup:

Looking forward to the rest of this build, Keep up the great work.

Cheers, Gary.

jakesdad13
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Thank,s for the kind comment Gary, :thumbsup:.

I had a trip to a toy and train fair at Doncaster last week not expecting much in the way of O gauge, I was quite wrong as I managed to pick up a couple of ready built wagons, and if i had been a bit more flush I would have had several more as well as locos, any way these are them, unfortunately I am going to have to ruin the finish on them as they are out of era they have been very well built and I was able to buy them for less than the kit prices.




Thats it for now cheers all, Pete.

mattc6911
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Always nice when that happens pete, you go not expecting much and come away with some great buys :thumbs:

Cheers

   Matt

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Hi Pete,

will that mean losing the decals with the tare weight etc. Maybe you can get replacements once you have reliveried it. It looks in very good nick. Let us know how you get on with it.

cheers

toto

Gary
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Very nice kits Pete, I'm jealous...! :twitch:

Recently I came across a site that sell O gauge models at reasonable prices, so I bookmarked the page, but cannot access it now. Built and painted vent vans for £20 - £25.00 each, open wagons from £15.00 ! They had a range of Parkside Dundas, Slaters, etc etc...
The site is wagonandcarriage.co.uk , but all I get now is a message : 'The website can not be found'. :x:

Cheers, Gary.


jakesdad13
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Hi guys I will be removing all the decals and re-painting it as BR W region new transfers and then heavily distress the whole wagon before weathering it, maybe as internal use only, not sure yet.

I know what you mean Gary, it is bl@@dy infuriating, by the way, loved the videos, lots of handy ideas mate :thumbsup:.

Cheers, Pete. 

Gary
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I'll just keep watching out for that elusive O gauge bargain...! :whatever:
Thanks for your nice comments regarding weathering. :thumbsup:

Cheers, Gary.

SMR CHRIS
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Great start to your model railway like the sector head shunt with the release down the back of the layout gives plenty of extra storage area.

I admire your buildings. A Very industrial works look comming through :thumbs:
Buildings are one area I don't enjoy doing in the scenic's for some reason

Any chance of some photos of the locos on the layout?

jakesdad13
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Hi Chris, at the moment I only have two locos for Wheeldon that are usable, an 040 Hudswell Clarke.




I also have a Lima 040 diesel shunter that I have Anglisized and repainted, I still want to do some more detailing to yet and fit a dcc chip.




I also have an Andrew Barclay 040 shunter that I am scratch building, still got quite a way to go with that yet.


I also have a kit for an 040 Peckett to build and a part built 03 diesel shunter to finish when funds allow.

Cheers, Pete.  

SMR CHRIS
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Hi thanks for the photos they look great
Really like the Hudswell Clark and your scratch build loco is comming on nicely will be a great addition for shunting :thumbs:

I see the coupling bar on the Diesel are you using sprat and winkel.
I use those on my BR rolling stock and so does my dad on his O scale layout, I find they are really quite effective with the magnets and the delay action.
A lot easier than the scale Knuckle coupler's I use on the Ozzy stock
http://www.click

jakesdad13
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Sorry for the delay in my reply Chris, yes I am going for Spratt and Winkle couplings mainly because I have a load of them from an abandoned project from years ago, originally it was to be 3 link but I rebuilt the scenics and afterwards realised I could no longer reach over the buildings to uncouple, I have converted a couple of wagons that took me ages but I will speed up as I get better at them :whatever:.

Cheers, Pete. 

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jakesdad13 wrote:
Sorry for the delay in my reply Chris, yes I am going for Spratt and Winkle couplings mainly because I have a load of them from an abandoned project from years ago, originally it was to be 3 link but I rebuilt the scenics and afterwards realised I could no longer reach over the buildings to uncouple, I have converted a couple of wagons that took me ages but I will speed up as I get better at them :whatever:.Cheers, Pete. 

:thumbs::thumbs:

http://www.click

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Hi guys, for Sprat & Winkle's what would I need to control them. Only having 2 wagons - both with 3 links fitted, and a loco with a cow catcher at each end, now is the time for me to decide which way to go.

Paul

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Fascinating build Pete and modeling at its best!

Ian

Last edited on 20 Apr 2016 08:14 by ianvolvo46

jakesdad13
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Hi Paul, the Spratt and Winkles use magnets under the rail head, they are a little like tension locks but upside down, I have fitted mine with chain links in iron and they are drawn to the magnets which pull down the coupling hooks, you back off the wagons a fraction the couplings uncouple, by pushing forward again you have delayed uncoupling, so one magnet can work on a fan of sidings, I will put some pics up to show what I mean,




the forward facing curved hook jobby on top of the coupling go,s under the bar on the next wagon and prevents the wagons recoupling, you can then push the wagon to where it needs to go then just back off jobs a guddun.

Hope this helps, cheers, Pete.  

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Going back to Gary's post on 4th January (#18), in case you haven't found it since...

http://wagonandcarriage.co.uk/

and my general thoughts are, everything is big Pete.


Ed

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The bigger the better I say !
http://www.click :tophat:Gormo

jakesdad13
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gormo wrote: The bigger the better I say !
http://www.click :tophat:Gormo



The dark side is strong here Skywalker!

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Thanks Pete, looks simple enough even I could manage them :whatever:

Paul

jakesdad13
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Hi Paul, they look simple but it took me 2 hours to do those 2 wagons, though to be fair once I have got the hang of them it should be a lot quicker :headbanger::headbanger::headbanger:.

Pete.

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I only have two wagons, by the time I get another one I'd have forgotten how it was done :mutley2:

Paul

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jakesdad13 wrote:
The layout is 11ft6ins long by 2ft deep, trackwork is peco and points a mixture of peco copper clad and C&L, thats the basics I will go into more detail later in the thread as it develops.
 


Hi Pete, any chance we can have your take on building your points :thumbs: I'm feeling the need to take the plunge into track building. http://www.click

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Hi Kim, I think the best way to start point building would be using a kit, all the components will be included, plus you will need some gauges, I reckon for a starter kit I would go for copper clad sleepers, such as SMP in 4mm or Marcways in 7mm, a simple left or right hand point to get a handle on what is involved, a couple of good straight edges are important, what scale are you wanting to build them in? personally I like the larger gaps in 7mm for getting the soldering iron in, also with marcways kits they come with a ready to lay cast frog section, ( or at least they did ), then when you have cut your teeth on that, you can try something a little more complex, maybe a 3way or a crossing, before going for more difficult stuff like slips or bespoke points. There are tutorials on youtube if you look for them, some are better than others. A decent 40watt iron will be useful, medium melt solder and acid flux, giving it a good wash after all soldering sessions.
I hope I have been of some help mate, no doubt many other members will chip in and fill in any gaps I may have left, there are some seriously skilled track builders on here.  Any questions just ask, when I started I just read up on the subject and I made a few mistakes on the way, at least with soldered trackwork a little heat and you can start again.

Cheers for now, Pete. 

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Thanks Pete, I've actually got. Basic Marcway kit from a job lot I bought ages ago. I will dig it out after the show and perhaps do a "Watch Kim stuff it up" topic :mutley2:

jakesdad13
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Hi Kim, nice flat work surface, tape the plan down, some double sided, preferably clear, tape to fix the sleepers to the plan and you are set, cut and number the sleepers and file the ends square, the copper clad is supposedly pre fluxed but I prefer to use my own acid flux, mind you there are non acidic fluxes available that are supposed to be good, not tried them though, mark on the plan where not to solder clearly between the sleepers, just solder the odd one or two along the rail until you are happy its in line where you want it and then solder the rest, get some decent gauges they are important. Clean the rail underneath before soldering and don,t breathe the fumes, I have a small fan at the end of the bench when I am soldering.
Read the instructions and have fun.

Cheers, Pete.  

jakesdad13
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I hadn't realised it is over a year since posting anything on Wheeldon, though to be fair I haven't had anything to report :whatever:. Anyway, I had to put it away last year as it was taking up so much room in an over full shed, but now, after some sorting out and chucking stuff away I have gained some space. 
The first thing I have done is knock up a second pair of legs for one of the end boards so it is free standing for working on, (I still need to be able to get SWMBO's mobility scooter in.) During the past few months I have been thinking on how to improve the operation and have decided that it needs a new building at the left hand end beside the, disused, canal wharf, I saw at Doncaster show on an O gauge layout just the type of building I wanted, it was huge, at the front was an opening for incoming goods and inside at the rear there are fiddle roads that the operator could swap loads for outgoing wagons. Any way, just a few pic's to show you what I have done today.

First the new legs. Before.




After.





Now I've got it on its feet I need to get the end trackwork sorted, the wagon turn table has to come out and the buffers removed.





Buffers, turntable and track removed and ground work scraped off ready for re laying new track.





Thats as far as I have got at the moment, I need to cut a circle of ply to fill the hole, I don't have any small off cuts so I have glued two pieces of 4mm together and I'm just waiting for the glue to dry.

In the long term I am hoping to build a 4th board to go on the left hand end incorporating a traverser so I can run through trains, however that will make the layout bigger than the shed so we'll have to see.

Cheer's for now, Pete.  

 

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Good to see things moving again Pete.:thumbs:

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Hi Pete, look forward to seeing some more progress. Did you get any photos of the building you want to build?
Kim

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Looking good Pete. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
Why don't you just turn the wagon turntable upside down and glue back into position...?? :scratchchin:

Cheers, Gary.


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Thanks Toto :thumbsup:.
Hi Kim, its not based on a prototype and the one at Doncaster I didn't take a photo of sorry.
Hi Gary, I wanted to keep the turntable in case I decided to use it for something else, I have found inspiration for a layout in smaller things than that :giggle:.

Anyway I have knocked up a card building to see how it sits and it looks just as I imagined it, really chuffed, it also gave me an idea on how to build the real thing from the top down, it was a PITA to build from the base up. Some pics of what it looks like.












Well thats it so far, its back to domestic duties now. Hopefully I can get back into it this week after I've fetched some thin ply for the carcase.

Cheers for now, Pete.     

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Hi Pete,

It looks like a very domineering building with plenty of presence. Will you be doing lights under the canopy etc.


Toto

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:thumbs: well done Pete, may have been a PITA but it looks just right. Glad your going to use ply , definitely the way to go. The rear roof panel could be removable or hinged, to allow access to the large roof space, this could then be used to store wagons loads to fill your wagons with.:scratchchin:
Keep up the good work.
Kim

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Nice size building Pete. It will look great once you complete the actual model. Will it be corrugated iron or masonry ??

Cheers, Gary.

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The building will be clad in corrugated card to look like corrugated iron, there will be a 4ft ish brick base below. I don't intend to fit lights to the underpass, there will however be disused hoists on that side for the canal wharf. One idea I have had, as the interior is visible, is to put a photo of an industrial interior on a wall that lifts to swop and fit loads to wagons. Because there won't be enough head room for it to slide up, I may make it hinge to swing up, not sure yet, more thinking required ;).  Some lighting will be required as it will be dark in side and I also want to include some effects like welding, and if I can think of a safe way to do it, sparks from grinding, maybe a black card with some holes in it and a flashing bright yellow light behind, in the background :scratchchin:.

Much to consider :headbanger:

Cheer's, Pete.    

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Kimbo wrote: :thumbs: well done Pete, may have been a PITA but it looks just right. Glad your going to use ply , definitely the way to go. The rear roof panel could be removable or hinged, to allow access to the large roof space, this could then be used to store wagons loads to fill your wagons with.:scratchchin:
Keep up the good work.
Kim


Thank's Kim, just gone back and given the photo's a coat of looking at, and I think I may be able to make the roof space accessible without loosing any strength in the construction, it will also help in wiring lights and space for electronic doohickeys :thumbs:.

Pete. 

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Hi Pete,
with regards to the grinder sparks, I'm sure that there are fibre optic lights like a rope light that you can get that may simulate the effect that you want. Might be worth a troll on flea bay.
If I come across them ....... I'll give you a shout.
cheers
toto

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Nice one Toto, I hadn't thought of that :thumbs::thumbs:

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Made a start on my new building by cutting out the end walls, roof and one front and the rear wall out of ply, also started on the windows, I like to make my own using microstrip, unfortunately I have run out of the size I need so have had to order some more. It won't arrive until mid week so they will take a back seat for a few days.




The brass ones above are some I had in stock, I may use them later.
The windows I have started making and the openings for them in the front wall.







Cheer's, Pete. 

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My microstrip has arrived, plus I have found some corrugated card to clad the finished building with, unfortunately its aimed at kids crafts:whatever:, you will see what I mean. Also stocked up with more ply and some 8mm square to reinforce the corners.







I have finished making the windows.




First one painted, it took almost as long to paint as make, I had to knock off before I started chewing the carpet..........




It don't look too bad, photos are cruel at showing faults but once in place and the three foot rules in play it will look alright. I will make a start on the others tonight when SWMBO is at bingo with her mum.

Cheer's for now, Pete. 

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The windows look good Pete. Where did you get the kids corrugated. Bet it was a lot cheaper than our usual suppliers charge.

Cheers

Toto

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The window looks great and the corrugated card will certainly be easier to cut than styrene. I use the same gauge of card to replicate corrugated asbestos in OO. Keep up the good work. :thumbs:

Cheers, Gary.

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Toto wrote: The windows look good Pete. Where did you get the kids corrugated. Bet it was a lot cheaper than our usual suppliers charge.

Cheers

Toto


Hi Toto, it certainly is a lot cheaper than styrene etc, 10 A4 sheets for £3 from Hobbycraft.
http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/corrugated-coloured-paper-a4-10-pack/606490/1000


Cheers Gary, I have just one window left to paint, they are taking around 40 minutes each to do and give me cramp in my fingers as well as back ache :headbanger: just one left to do then they can be glued in. Once thats done the assembling of the building can start, its going to be a gaudy until I get it painted but it should look fine finished. 
I have been looking at methods of making the entrance door open and close, I want it to slide up and down, if I can get some, I have been looking at a geared rack that can be run with an electric motor I've saved from an old video recorder I had, in sliders, its in my head at the mo', hopefully I can get it to work ;).

Cheer's, Pete.  


Just tried the link, it went to hobbycraft but not to the page. If you click on kids, then paper its there.

Last edited on 4 Aug 2017 16:24 by jakesdad13

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Thanks for the link Pete.

Looking forward to seeing how the door works out. I am thinking of rising cage doors for my coal drop so ..... I'll leave you to be the trail blazer. :avatar:

Cheers

Toto

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Here is a direct link to the corrugated card Pete uses :

http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/corrugated-coloured-paper-a4-10-pack/606490-1000

Cheers, Gary.

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Great work Pete, this is going to be one impressive building. :thumbsup: Kim

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Thanks Kim. Well I had some time to play with today as I am mostly ready for next weeks steam rally at Lincoln, so I have had a play around with a working opening door to the building. I had thought about a rack and pinion system but then I saw what Max south oz on YMRC had done with his shed and thought, that looks easier, then this morning I picked up my copy of Railway Modeller and there is an article on a gauge 1 industrial micro layout and lo and behold he'd done more or less exactly what I wanted to do so I applied the KISS principal (Keep It Simple Stupid) and I've copied it. 
He has a sliding roller shutter door, but it doesn't roll, just go's up and down driven by an electric motor driving a shaft with string wound round it connected to the top of the door.
This will be my version. First I've scribed some plasticard to look like roller shutters.



Because of the danger of it curling I have fixed a length of plastruct I beam behind it, also it will give me an anchor point for the string.



The motor and gears I already had in my "that should come in useful box", and have wired it to a double pole switch so it will go up and down, its only temporary as I really need one with a centre off position.





I need to take a trip into town in the morning to pick up some plastruct channel to make the runners.

Widows all painted and glued in, just need to tidy up round them as I had to chop away at the ply to get them to fit.



Starting to come one now.

Cheer's, Pete. 

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Great stuff Pete. I'll be interested to see how this turns out.

Cheers

Toto

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Thanks Toto, you and me both mate :mutley2:.

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Had a trip into town this morning and got some plastruct I beams and a couple of switches, then this afternoon had a session in the shed and built my sliding door.
First I glued a couple of strips of plasticard 300 long x 20 wide 1mm thick to give the I beam better grip with solvent rather than glue.



Next up I fixed the smaller I beams either side of the door, I had to glue a shorter piece across the top of the door as it had bowed slightly.



Tried the door in place and it glides up and down nicely, even just under its own weight, I thought I may have to put a bit of lead flashing at the bottom but it seems fine.







I have fixed the electric winder in place and made a support bearing at the end of the shaft, although it might have worked without ok, still belt and braces..
Tied a short length of string between the top of the door and the winder, soldered the new switch in place of the old one so now I can turn it off as well as winch the door up and down.




I'm using a battery, well 2, AA's, though if I can find one, I will use a 3v transformer, quite pleased with it to tell the truth, despite it making enough noise to wake the dead :facepalm:.

Next job, tidy up the wiring, then start assembly.

Cheer's, Pete.   

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That's looking champion Pete, well done that man! :tophat:

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I'll second that. Lip looks a very neat fit. Nice and simple as well. I could see that being copied regularly. :avatar: ...... Erm ....... I don't know by who like. ....... Where did I put me plastistruct :avatar:

Well done Pete :thumbs:

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Quick question Pete,

Is your switch a double poll or single poll centre off switch?

Cheers
Toto

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Thanks chaps. Toto, the switch is a double pole double throw centre off DPDT On Off On, miniature toggle. Dead easy to wire as they need to cross over to get the reversing function, I'm sure someone will come up with a graphic shortly to explain :mutley2:.

Cheer's, Pete. 

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That's great,

The wiring I get. The positive and negative are wired to one end and cross over when linking to the other end,

The centre contacts are the common that go to the motor. Switch one way .... The motor runs forward , switch the other, the polarity reverses and the motor travels in the other direction.

You've given me a bit of an idea with your pulley.

Cheers

Toto:thumbs:

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Very nice Pete. Looking forward to seeing this in action. (video... ;);))

Toto, here is a wiring graphic (Pete asked for it...:mutley2:) for the DPDT switch...


Cheers, Gary.

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Cheers Gary,

My verbal attempt wasn't so clear. :thumbs:

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Simple solution and it works, great stuff :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Ed

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I am going to attempt similar on the coal drop gates Pete but my motors will need to be placed to the rear of the building which means a 90 degree bend via a pulley wheel. I think I will add a bit weight to mine to keep the pulleys tight.

I have the same motors as yourself. I found them tonight even though I've just sent for two others yesterday. :facepalm:

Anyway, Paul had explained similar to me before but I'm a bit thick ...... I need to see it to understand it. This thread has rammed it home. :giggle:

Cheers. Looking forward to see it in action.

Toto

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When I was working out how to do it, I thought I may need to include a pulley in the string run and considered two 00 wagon wheels glued face to face to make the pulley, they come with a shaft,(axle) and bearings, if needed, are readily available.

Cheer's, Pete. 

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Great solution there Pete,

I like it......it`s amazing what lies behind some models and it`s simpler than we often think it is.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

http://www.click:tophat:Gormo

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It needs to be simple if I'm to do it. :avatar:

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Done some more on the factory/workshop building, I have glued the ends, front and roof in place, it has taken an age because of the shape of the front walls and the physical size, some parts I could clamp while the glue sets, but after a while I had to resort to using screws to hold the bits together until the glue dried.
Anyway the pics should show the assembly.















Before I glued the ends in place I coloured the channels on the inside, I didn't want to paint them so I used a black permanent marker pen and a Sharpie pen to get into the corners, I was a little worried the solvent in the pens may attack the plastic but all seems fine.  I have also painted the door and weathered it with washes and powders.




Well that's as far as I can go for the moment until the glue has dried and I can remove the screws, then I can start on the cladding.

Cheer's for now, Pete.  

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This is looking good Pete like the door operation :thumbs:

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Coming along a treat Pete and looks very sturdy. :thumbs: Looking forward to seeing it clad in it's iron clothing... ;)

Cheers, Gary.

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Looking great Pete. A very neat build.

Cheers

Toto

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As I want the buildings on Wheeldon to sit in the landscape and I want the trackwork filled in up to the rail top level. So I've started digging up the old groundcover where its going to be concrete, I have also started raising the ground level up by gluing thick card down between the tracks. I will post up some photos later of where I am at. Not going mad with it, I still have to build another baseboard for the new fiddle yard and lay some more track before committing to the scenics.   

Cheer's, Pete.

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Do you need some help Pete, you're not that far away!!:thumbs:

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Thanks Ron for the offer :thumbsup:, fortunately I'm ok, I have to do a bit then wait for the glue to dry, thankfully the weather is helping, and I am getting somewhere. 
Here are a few photos of what I am doing.
First, clearing the old ballast and ground cover.



Next I glued some thick, double thickness, card down.



Then some 2mm mountboard card, it was a bit warped, so I had to use all the heavy stuff I could lay my hands on to weigh it down, it seems to have worked.



clearances seem fine too.



I have checked the building st ill fits and all is good, I'm just fitting the door switch in place then I can start on the cladding.
Cheer's for now Pete.   

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No hanging around there Pete. :thumbs:

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Looking good Pete :tophat:

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I'm taking notes, got a feeling I'm going to need them.

Paul

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taking shape nicely now Pete, how are you going to finish the surface?:thumbs: Kim

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Thank you chaps :thumbsup:.

Kim, as the big shed sits over it, I'm just going to paint it as a concrete base as per Garys Industry Lane, the effect Gary has with his is spot on. The yard outside I'm going to do with model clay, Das, as the surface underneath is a bit bumpy, and I can't be :bleep6:ed to scrape it all off, I bought a book from a company called Petite Properties and in there the author described how to lay it smooth by rolling it out first, anyway we will see ;).

Cheer's, Pete.   

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Make sure you ask SHMBO before nicking her rolling pin...:mutley2:
look forward to seeing a how to Pete :thumbs:
Kim

Last edited on 29 Aug 2017 12:56 by Kimbo

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As head cook and bottle washer here at chez jakesdad, its my rolling pin :mutley2:

Pete.

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:mutley2::mutley2::mutley2:

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Made a start on cladding the new building, I started by sticking the corrugated card on with pva which went fine until I stared on the end wall when the water in the pva caused the card to delaminate. So, a trip into town and I got some spray photo mount, not cheap but it has done the job. Still got some to do but I have had to knock off as my right foot has decided to start playing up :x:.
Anyway have a look at the delightful finish so far.
Warning, you may need to wear sun glasses.







Lovely eh?

I will have another go once my foot stops throbbing!

Cheer's, Pete.  

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Well my foot finally stopped throbbing after I pulled the wire brush bristle out of it :facepalm:.
Any way I went back and glued the other end wall cladding and the on roof. Thats when it all went :bleep6:ts up. After I painted the end wall, the cladding decided to curl up and peel off. I had used a rattle can to paint it and I think the either the thinner in the paint or the propellant caused the problem. Any way, I peeled it all of the end and glued it back with Pritt Stick, it seems to be fine now. 
A few more pic's.



I have used some ready mixed black paint sold for kids to patch up where it had got chipped, thats where the patchy lighter blobs are, I've also started fitting the bargeboard/cappings.



I have also started on the ventilators, 1 started, 4 more to go!




Cheer's, Pete.  

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Looks the part Pete:thumbs:

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I have had a go with Gormos super glue tip, using it to strengthen paper/card.
Some of the edges on my new building are susceptible to damage so I have started to strengthen them using super glue and plastruct "I" beam, only done a short bit as I used up all my super glue, I will pick some more up tomorrow.
Any way a couple of photos.








Still loads to do, but at least I have a solid plan now.

Cheer's, Pete. 

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Looking good Pete :thumbs:

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Thanks Ron, its turning into a bit of a marathon build, maybe I should have gone with embossed plasticard. Still, no turning back now :mutley2:.

Pete. 

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I'm thinking about using some on my sills and lintels as being grey board and paper, could take a knock or two. How have you been applying it Pete ?

I only want mine on the actual pieces and not down the walls. :avatar:


Toto

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You never mentioned is was a paint factory outlet :mutley2::mutley2::mutley2:

It's coming on a treat now, it will be one very impressive building on the layout when finished. :thumbs:

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Cheer's Kim :thumbs:.

Toto, I spread it along the bottom of the card then using an old brush I spread it out. As its a cheapo thin glue I let it run a bit thinking more is best, all it did was run everywhere, I should have used less and let it go further. I don't know if the thicker gel type may be better, whether it would soak in like the runny stuff or not I don't know, on mine its going to be painted over. You could try it on a scrap part and see.
You've got a lot to do so it is worth experimenting.

Pete. 

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A bit more done. All the window surrounds and the door sorted, as it's supposed to be a roller door I've made a box for the outside where the door go's.







I have made the bases for the ventilators, I need to find some plastic pipe to make the tops.



A couple of photos that give an idea of the size of the building, I was trying my O gauge 08 shunter for a clearance check.





Thats all for now, I will be glad when its done :headbanger:

Cheer's, Pete.      

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Looking good Pete (and colourful!) :tophat:

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I am almost ready to slap some paint on, and get rid of the rainbow!  :giggle:.

Pete. 

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Go for it Pete. :thumbs: i'm sure the results will be worth it.
toto

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I'm liking this build very much Pete,:tophat::thumbs: and your layout is fab too. I'm following this tread with interest and looking forward to see the factory come together/
Cheers for now Paul

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I made a start on painting the door end wall today, after a couple of minutes part of the card lifted and bowed :evil:, anyway I left it alone and happily it dried flat and I pressed it back down again. In case it happened again, I sprayed part of the roof with Testors sealant and after it had dried, painted it black, so far it looks ok, so before I knocked off for the night, I sprayed the whole roof. When I go back in the shed tomorrow I will paint the roof too.
I need some pipe to make the ventilator tops so I had a look at Plastruct, the diameter I need is very expensive to buy online so I Googled plastic pipe, and Wickes popped up with plastic drain pipe, £1.99 for 1.5 mtr's. Result!!!!


Cheer's, Pete. 

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I don't know why the likes of plastistruct needs to be so expensive. They maybe think because it's made specifically for modelling that people will just pay the price. They forget however that the people that they serve are a little more inventive. :avatar: well done Pete and I look forward to the pictures.

Cheers

Toto

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Even with the :bleep6: ups, the model is looking the part. The added details such as the I beams under the extension and the window/roller door surrounds look just right. Great job. Looking forward to the pics of the painted model. Just be aware that some of those cheap arcylic paints may not like the hardened up super glue card. Maybe a spray of automotive undercoat (acrylic) can help out there. ;)

Cheers, Gary.

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Looking forward to seeing the building painted Pete :thumbup: Kim

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I've given the majority of the building a coat of black paint, it still needs another in places as the paint is fairly thin, I'm still having prob's with the corrugated card delaminating and lifting in places but I can sort that I'm sure :headbanger:
Gary, you were right about the superglued card not taking paint well, but I have had an idea, I've sprayed some paint from the rattle can into the lid, and brushed it on. I think it will need another coat though.
Anyway some photos.





You can see the card where it's started to delaminate above :facepalm:.
The apex needs to have the capping and ventilators glued on before its painted.




Thats it for now, cheer's, Pete. 

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It's a very impressive building with lots of presence. Perceive red with the paint. I'm sure you shall conqueor in the end.

Toto

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Hi Pete

I use spaghetti with a cover of tissue paper to form the ridge - if you dampen the tissue paper you may even get it to follow the profile of the corrugations

Paul

 

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The building looks great, a very nice build. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

For ridge cappings I use two lengths of styrene strip glued to the surface leaving a small gap between the two pieces at the ridge. Then a length of styrene rod is glued into the valley of the two styrene strips.



I have fixed styrene rod to painted surfaces using Zap-A-Gap CA+ glue. Apply the glue to the rod then carefully position in place without getting the glue elsewhere on the exposed surfaces. ;)

http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=zap/zap-glues/zap-gap

Cheers, Gary.

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The shed is looking great. As Toto said, it has real presence.
Good job!

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Thanks for the suggestions etc, I have a plan for the ridge capping brewing in my head. Because its industrial and so big the capping/ridge is going to be too big for traditional methods, the idea I have is similar to the type of ridge used on provender stores as used all over the railway systems but bigger. The ventilators need to be built and fitted first though.

Cheer's Steve :thumbs:, much appreciated.

Pete. 

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I have finally extracted my digit and done some more work on the factory building, after some head scratching and searching diy stores I found some plastic pipe reducers of a size that would work. I made some bases and glued some plastic discs to the reducers so I could stick them to the bases and this is what I came up with.



Here's one painted, its still wet, not gloss, before assembling I gave them all a sanding to get rid of the shiny finish and help the paint stick, I didn't clean off the dust and its given a nice texture finish, still more weathering to do first though.




Its been a while since doing any work on the building and I found the corrugated card had lifted in places, so where I could, I lifted the card and sprayed it with carpet adhesive, which I should have used in the first place!

Cheer's, Pete.  

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Looking good Pete, well done mate...

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The ventilators look good. :thumbs:

Cheers, Gary.

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Great idea re the vents Pete :thumbsup: might just pinch that one from you:thumbs:
Building really coming together now, great work.
Kim

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A little more done, ventilators painted and fitted along with ridge capping.




Also made and fitted support legs, made from plastruct H girder with "concrete" bases.







I've also repainted most of the building with Humbrol black enamel, I think its supposed to be satin but its coming out matt, I will post up some photos when its all done. A much better finish, all the colour on the card has been covered thank the lord!

Cheer's, Pete.

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That looks great, its hard to work out the size though? 

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Hi Ron, it's 26" long, 20" wide and about 15" tall. There is another building (already made) to butt up to it to hide the tracks at the rear, I will place it and take some more piccy's to show what I mean.

Cheer's, Pete.

Ron
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Thats pretty big Pete, cheers :scratchchin:

Keith M
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Impressive building Pete!
Keith.

Gary
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That has come up trumps Pete, great job. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

If you have an old OO/4mm 5 plank open wagon sitting around, pop that on the roof for comparison !

Cheers, Gary.

ed
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Looks great Pete :thumbup:


Ed

jakesdad13
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Ron asked, how big is the building and Gary suggested plonking a 4mm wagon on top for comparison. 
So here go's.




And... 





I have also had a sort out in the shed, now the rally season is over for us. I've moved a load of stuff from the back wall and moved the baseboard back 4 ft which has given me room to set up the next board and place the buildings I've already made (but not finished yet :whatever:) so I can see where I need to go next. 

Also, having taken on board advice that said I didn't need to rewire for DCC, just switch on all the sections, well I did and hey presto! it worked much to my relief http://www.click.




Thats it for now, got to get dinner on.

Cheer's, Pete. 

Ron
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That looks great Pete :thumbs:http://www.click

Gary
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The layout looks great Pete, even though it's not finished. Having that 4mm track and wagon makes it look like you building a narrow gauge line on the layout, alongside the 7mm !

Cheers, Gary.

jakesdad13
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I had another sort out in the shed today, and I've managed to find room for the 3rd board, I can now run trains and shunt. I still need to sort the wiring to the third board, its just a chocolate block connector, I really need to solder some proper connectors to tidy things up.One thing I've discovered is locos and wagons foul on the bridge at the rear of the layout, which is strange as they didn't before I dismantled it last year.... Anyway I had to chop a lump out but all's good now. One other thing is the point rods have stiffened up so I need to get underneath with some WD40 and give the linkages a good spray. All very well getting down there but getting back up again is another matter!!!

I had a little play/test run with my 08, and a couple of wagons, I'm beginning to think I might have to look at operating the layout from the front. That is going to mean some jiggery pokery with the point operation. Maybe look at point motors/servos. We will see.

More play/testing tomorrow :giggle:.

Cheer's, Pete.  

Kimbo
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Looking really good Pete, those buildings are something to be very proud of. Time to start planning a running video for us to enjoy :thumbs:
Kim




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