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O gauge Hymek extreme scratching.
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 Posted: 13 Nov 2017 16:56
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Is Line Clear
Paul


Joined: 20 Aug 2017
Location: York, United Kingdom
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At the risk of doing this subject to death particulaly since Kimbo and I have recenty had long convos on building up the replacement Hymek bogies I thought I'd start a new thread focused on the bodyshell and what to do with it. In essence the Triang Hymek bodyshell is proportionally accurate to within 2mm in length of true scale, however there are some quite significant and glaring errors which need to be addressed so this thread will attempt to deal with this ... or at least that is my current thinking :mutley2:.In the ideal world of course getting hold of a Heljan bodyshell is preferable but in the absence of dinosaurs roaming across Europe again the Triang Blue Flier Hymek is a good as any start point for scratching  a conversion from. Of course there is the muchly reveared JLTRT offering but then that isn't really extreme scratching.:thumbs: but it is a good source to purchase some of the more specialist detailing bits from. Basically i got my Hymeks from off of Ebay paying £16 and £25 for each one, my advice to anyone thinging of going down this road is get the older Triang version and not the Russian Novo equivalent as the earlier plastic is much more forgiving. The Novo version has a block losange shape cast onto the side, this was done to alter the mould and eradicate the Blue Flier logo of the earlier Triang ones.
Now I've added a picture so things don't get too boring, on the left is an unmodified Triang Hymek and on the right is one I did ealier :avatar:note the sticky back plastic tape still intact on the right :avatar:.

There are a few areas on the body that require attention, notably in the cab area as seen in the picture, the cab windscreen need altering and so does the cab roof profile. The swage ledge below the cab windscreens need reprofiling to around a 30degree downward slope and so does the lower edge of the route box aperture. These are areas of the model that isn't covered in the PRMRP detailing kit, more about this later though as Kimbo has already nicely covered the bogie build of these kits. one other quite important detail not covere in the PRMRP kit concerns one of the side ehgine compartment windows. On the Triang kit the two windows nearest the cab are cast as both smaller windows, in fact only one window is smaller and this is the one between the single access compartment door and the side louvre vent grill. the other small window on the other side has to be enlarged to the size of the middle windows. This means that one of the PRMRP window frame etches needs to be cut down in length. More about this later.
The picture above shows what I mean and also creates an instant Vic Berry stack... no I'm sorry its beyond me to convert these into Sulzer Type 2's and English Electric 20's.:scratchchin:
What the PRMRP kit does cover is the modifications that need to be done to the roof detailing, these include moving the circular roof fan grill sideways by 5mm, enlarging the exhaust outlet ports to a 5mm diameter and forming various other cubicle air intakes and vents. 


So this photo show some of the completed work done to date, some speedily knocked up lifting panel hooks have been made and temporarily fitted to see what it all looks like and if it is work going to make a set of 20 equally formed hooks. I think it does and so these crude wire hooks will be replaced with better ones as a next job before the body shell is primer sprayed.



The first modification i did was to change the shape of the front windows as they are nothing like on the Triang model, this involves removing the plastic gutter strip so that the roof line drew straight down onto the cab front where at this point a rather nasty "nose" on the front edge of the cab roof becomes apparent, gently file this down and also the front corners too. It doesn't matter if too much plastic is removed as long as nothing is filed off from the front and side window pillar surfaces as the cab shape has to have a new gutter fitted and this will follow the side profile directly above the window. I used 0.7mm wire but in hindsight OO scale square point rodding wire may have been a better choice. Anyway to fix I started at the centre of the cab and lowly working outwards to the corners the wire was gued in with cyano, the aim is to remove that pronounced upward central flair shape on the front windows and the wire will act as a guide in creating the new glazing shape. Once the cyano had set the corners can be bent round and the wire terminated behind the cab doors, now the next job is to filler in the gaps and I used a building product called Cuprinol Wood Fill, this is a two pack product and comes in white and natural colours, to me it has a much finer texture than car body filler or an Isopon type filler, P38 for example and it doesn't break away so easily during fine sqnding thin filler areas. Cuprinol products can be bought from Travis Perkins builders merchants or Google an equivalent product match if needed.


Filler all around the cab gutter area and then sand back until a gently curving front without the rise shape appears and also sand back the sides which have a less pronounced downward curving cab edge as on the Triang bodyshell. The above picture shows what i mean.
Now I dealt with the windows the top centres need to be lowered and the top outer corners need to be slightly raised, I used Green putty as a stopper but to get the right shape I used the Wood Fill which sticks superbly well to the Triang plastic and held the new wire guttering firmly in place. The lower edges of the front windows need to be reduceed too, they need to follow the bottom line of the side windows, again gently filing down will do the trick. the next job is to deal with the cab swage line which on the model is flat but should in fact follow the line of the side profile shape underneath the side windows and through the cab door.

Last edited on 13 Nov 2017 18:30 by Is Line Clear



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Building the Elton Crossing layout and currently converting and detailing a Hymek D7044
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 Posted: 13 Nov 2017 17:15
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Is Line Clear
Paul


Joined: 20 Aug 2017
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Now there is plenty of plastic beef on the cab mould to file away, I was aiming for a 30 degree slope from below the windows, firstly the white plastic window moulds need to be glued to the main blue plastic body, the get a fine profile I held the edge of a new Stanley blade upright and shaved across the plastic  similar to the action of a carpenter planing wood, this is where that black line tape came in as seen on the earlier image, the tape is a guide for how far to shave using the Stanley blade.  It is a bit of a long winded process to undertake but I kept checking each side for an equal match and got there in the end. The planed ledge left from the shaving process can now be smoothed round with 600 grade wet and dry paper.

 
Once I was happy with the results of the shaving process which has to take out the forward top edge of the white plastic but not all the way back to the windows I then ran a fine filet of WoodFill over the back edge of the white plastic against just below the windows. After sanding and flatting back so the slope started and finished with the profile along the sides and the front windscreen line followed the same alignment as the side window I was happy.In my next post I will show how I made the roof detailing and then later discuss what I did to the bodysides which involved removing loads of plastic. Scary stuff I thought at the time.
Cheers for now Paul

Last edited on 13 Nov 2017 18:28 by Is Line Clear



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Building the Elton Crossing layout and currently converting and detailing a Hymek D7044
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 Posted: 13 Nov 2017 17:45
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Rob Pulham
Tight Fisted Yorkshireman


Joined: 15 Sep 2017
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Looking good Paul,
Proper modelling:thumbs:



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Regards Rob
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 Posted: 13 Nov 2017 18:22
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jakesdad13
Professional grumpy old git


Joined: 14 Dec 2015
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Rob Pulham wrote: Looking good Paul,
Proper modelling:thumbs:



Wot ee said :tophat::tophat:


Pete.



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I found it, honest guv!
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 Posted: 13 Nov 2017 19:11
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Is Line Clear
Paul


Joined: 20 Aug 2017
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Thanks Pete... I like a challengehttp://www.click

Last edited on 13 Nov 2017 19:12 by Is Line Clear



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Building the Elton Crossing layout and currently converting and detailing a Hymek D7044
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