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 Moderated by: Toto, tanygaer, Ron, paul_l, gormo, Gary Page:    1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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O gauge Track
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 Posted: 1 Jan 2018 18:09
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paul_l
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I decided to have a go at building a small layout based on the Gauge O Guild Welcome to O gauge booklet (part of the joining kit) £100 layout.

Now the layout uses a single 6ft x 2ft piece of ply, cut to give 2 of 5ft x 1ft (Baseboard and Backscene) and 2 of 1ft x 1ft Backscene for the two ends. I uses a single point and a sector plate.
Simples and very effective.

However as I have a traverser (well when I can borrow it from Toto), I dont need the sector plate, and I wish to try using 50mm insulation foam as a base board, and also have a go at building my own track.

I have owned Templot for several years - and should have spent more time learning to use this excellant piece of software. It is now available as a free download Templot

I have placed on order some C&L chairs (not arrived yet) but decided to make my own sleepers from coffee stirrers - 1000 arrived two days after ordering and cost £5.

I had previously made a jig out of grey board to cut PCB sleeper strip to the correct size, and used this again for this.


The coffee stirrer is inserted and trimmed off square.

Then inserted the other way round and trimmed to length, same again for a second sleeper.

Out of one stirrer I can get either 2 standard sleepers or 1 sleeper and a point timber.

Below shows 2 std sleepers plus the off cuts. An hour or so later I have approx 100 sleepers and enough point timbers for 1 point.



Next up staining

I'm using Colron Burmese Teak



The timbers are placed in a jar, and a slug of wood dye added - not too much a capfull is a good start.

Close the jar and rotate  / tumble just work the timbers .



It produces a nice variation in tones, which can be darkened by adding a little more dye.

For a really dark look try Dark Oak, or a more faded worn look try Country Pine.

These need to be left for a few days to even out, and absorb.

Back to Templot 101

Paul

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 Posted: 1 Jan 2018 18:21
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Toto
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I use the colron ( oil based version ) for the Townstreet casts. most of their stuff now comes water based . Boooooooo
Looking forward to seeing the sleepers Paul ...... and the point .... that should offer up a challenge.
toto



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 04:33
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SMR CHRIS
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It’s all go at Platform1 with new small layout builds
I’ll have to dig out the Guild book to refresh the memory on the design.
I can see a new traverser build on the way soon :thumbs:

Last edited on 2 Jan 2018 04:34 by SMR CHRIS



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 10:13
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ianvolvo46
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following this Paul ... er what flavour were the lollies? .. honestly good luck with it mate.

Ian vt



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 10:16
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Gary
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I'm watching closely Paul..., don't ask why though.... ;)

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 13:01
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Rob Pulham
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I too will be watching closely, I have all the ingredients but so far I have only managed to get around to making 3 lengths of straight track.



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 13:10
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Toto
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What he doesn't tell you is that each length was 3 metres long with a diamond crossing and a double slip attached to each end. :avatar:
You are too modest Rob.:avatar:



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 13:32
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jakesdad13
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A great start in O scale track building, I managed to pick up a used point from the Doncaster toy and train fair just before the new year, it needs a little tlc but for £15 I'm happy. But I need another 5 so I'm going to build them myself. I planned on using copperclad sleepers but after seeing your coffee stirrer sleepers, (I've got a bag full too!) I'm going to follow your build closely. I will buy the rail from Marcways in Sheffield, its close by and easy to park near, I've got some chairs from my last build, I will need loads more but its enough to get started.
Right I'm ready to start building, so, lets go mate!!!!!!!
Ready when you are :thumbs:.


Cheer's, Pete. 

Ps, what turnout plan will you use, I've downloaded the free Peco L and R plans and will print them off as needed. 

Last edited on 2 Jan 2018 13:34 by jakesdad13



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 17:17
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Is Line Clear
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Toto wrote: What he doesn't tell you is that each length was 3 metres long with a diamond crossing and a double slip attached to each end. :avatar:
You are too modest Rob.:avatar:

Not even a scissors crossover in sight too ?:mutley2: 



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 19:30
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Rob Pulham
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Is Line Clear wrote: Toto wrote: What he doesn't tell you is that each length was 3 metres long with a diamond crossing and a double slip attached to each end. :avatar:
You are too modest Rob.:avatar:

Not even a scissors crossover in sight too ?:mutley2: 


Ha Ha,  I wish.

Paul if you have a look on the Gazette Archive  - Here there is an article by Bob Alderman on building a C&L point kit. If you look at the last page of the article there is a section on building the crossing V yourself. It will be my point (pardon the pun) of reference when I come to build some for myself.



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 19:31
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paul_l
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Hi Pete

So far I have a plan for a B6 turnout in Templot, but need to add the rest of the trackplan.

But kind of scuppered until the C&L chairs arrive, but looks like they are shut for the holidays.

I have started to cut up more sleepers, these ones I will stain with the Antique Country Pine, to show the difference.

Paul

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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 19:52
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paul_l
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Hi Rob

Thanks for the link - I will be making all the bits myself - if rivets had been cheaper I would be using them.

I have a small stock of rail but will probably order more from Marcway, where I got the last lot from.

One of the first machining projects for the cnc is a jig to hold the V

Rough sketch


Made from Alluminium, with 5 slots the width of the rail and slightly shallower than the rail height to allow a clamp to hold the rails in place.

Placing one rail in the center slot the other in the angle required. The soldered joint is made outside the jig, and I intend to use plumbers solder (68% Lead 32% Tin) with a melting point of approx 250C.

Looking forward to getting started.

Paul

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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 20:12
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Rob Pulham
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Hi Paul,
I took it as read that you were making everything yourself (except the chairs of course)  - No point having all that machinery and buying in what you can make yourself:thumbs:
The article is still worth a read because it shows you how to go about assembling the bit's once you have made them and of course how to make your own crossing V rather than using the C&L supplied example.



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 22:33
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paul_l
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Cheers for the link - printed out and working my way through it.

Paul

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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 22:40
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Is Line Clear
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Here is a B8 - B8 crossover turnout I made a couple of years ago using C&L components and scratching my own crossing Vee's, note that the wing rail is extended beyond the crossing nose on the turnout side to form a parallel wing rail, this is standard practice for any turnout on the big railway where points are inserted within a curve and in straight crossovers on passenger lines. Now a word of caution here as I fell into this nice little trap, if you build turnouts using C&L chairs then I recommend using the C&L rail which has a marginally thicker profile, I had a purchased a Marcway point kit from the dreaded ebay thinking this would be a good source of rail... how wrong I was as this rail is a thinner section which doesn't like seating properly in the C&L chairs. I have nothing against Marcway or Peco points but for me I'm looking for that little extra detail which a C&L track template will offer. cheers for now Paul

Rob Pulham wrote: Hi Paul,
I took it as read that you were making everything yourself (except the chairs of course)  - No point having all that machinery and buying in what you can make yourself:thumbs:
The article is still worth a read because it shows you how to go about assembling the bit's once you have made them and of course how to make your own crossing V rather than using the C&L supplied example.

Last edited on 3 Jan 2018 02:13 by Is Line Clear



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