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LNER 06 (Being built from an MOK 8F Kit)
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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 14:09
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jakesdad13
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A cracking build Rob, considering the quality fit of parts this far it is a strange thing with the cab. I'm sure with your skill level it won't be long before you've cracked it!
As an aside I've got an Oakville LNER K3 kit I started years ago, its been sat in the naughty drawer for at least 10/12 years for more or less the same problem. I have read a build thread on f/b, the builder had the same problem, but for the life of me I can't remember how he got round it :facepalm:.

Cheer's, Pete.



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 Posted: 2 Jan 2018 18:46
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Rob Pulham
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Hi Pete,

Tony Geary built one and he too had issues but he's a superb builder and managed to sort them. - 
if you have a search on RMweb for a thread called the Derby Line it's in the first few pages I think. 

I have seen it in the flesh and its a handsome loco. From what I recall if I am thinking of the same kit they were a limited edition of 50 so you are quite lucky to get your hands on one despite it's issues.


I sort of have half an eye open for one but given the expected work it would need to be at reasonable money for me to indulge.

Last edited on 2 Jan 2018 18:47 by Rob Pulham



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 12:28
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jakesdad13
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Hi Rob, yes it was a limited edition for a model shop in Sheffield who's name escapes me for the moment, they were just up the road from Marcways. It was designed and produced by Jim McGowan (Little Jim) who made the Acorn kits, they were also challenging to build, I had to get the bonnet for an 08 he sold, rolled by a friend who was a professional model maker, who started Stephensons Coaches.

I knew Jim well, he was a member of my club, so I got him to knock a kit up for me and bless him, he did it for cost!

As an aside, I lost contact with him when he moved house. I had no idea where he had gone, then one day I had to go to south wales to pick up a motorbike that the shop I drove for had bought. Low and behold it was Jim that answered the door. Small world.

Pete. 



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 15:08
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Rob Pulham
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Hi Pete,
I thought it was Jim Harris who did the Acorn kits or am I thinking of another range? - too many Jim's



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 15:46
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jakesdad13
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Sorry Rob, yes you are quite right mate. I blame age and dementia :giggle:.

Cheer's, Pete.



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 20:40
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Rob Pulham
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Hi Pete,
The many ranges that Jim Harris had a hand in are scattered to the four winds. I have a J94 kit that is in a Majestic Models box and when I queried George Dawson about it, he advised that it was one of Jim Harris's kits rather than one he had designed himself (which is a real shame because all the kit's that I have built from George's range have been excellent). 
George designed the locos in the Connoisseur Claymore range and he also did the artwork before he passed away for the 62C models Scottish loco kits.
I think that the J94 may well be with Northants Model Railway Supplies now. 



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 10:28
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Rob Pulham
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I am having a little more one step forward and two back with this build and it's my own silly fault. In my eagerness to crack on I hadn't noticed a photo in the Wild Swan LMS Loco profiles book on the 8F's that shows the inside of the cab and more importantly the backhead. It seems that I have too much pipe work for my period so some of it needs to come off again.

I am thanking myself in that I took the extra time and effort to make most of the parts removable because that will make redoing it much easier.


This shows how the parts are removable



Below is a crop of the cab photo in the Wild Swan book. The photo is credited to the National Railway Museum and is used here purely to illustrate the differences between what I have done and what I should have done.

Attachment: Cab Layout cropped.jpg (Downloaded 31 times)



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 14:30
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Rob Pulham
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Although there are glaring gaps in the instructions, one part is explicit, that of forming the smokebox and boiler. 

The boiler comes pre rolled and according to the instructions so does the smokebox inner but mine wasn't. That wasn't an issue and I soon had it rolled. 

Now for the I'm a dummy bit, the instructions are quite explicit about using two of the formers for the x71 and x72 (sorry I can't remember if the preceding number is 1 or 3). Leaving x70 to go in the smaller end of the boiler. Because they all look identical (but aren't Grrr) I managed to pick up the wrong one and only discovered my error when I had it all nicely soldered together.

My only saving grace was that I discovered the error (part x70 is slightly bigger than x71/x72) before I soldered the other wrong bit (x70) into the smokebox). At 11:15 on Tuesday night I didn't have the headspace to sort it out so I went to bed.


This morning I set to and using a pointed scalpel and gentle heat from the micro flame I slowly worked my way around easing the boiler away from the former with regular quenching to take it out and replace it with part x70.


Thankfully I got away with it, in part I think due to the fact that I had soldered it in initially using the microflame to chase around a tiny amount of solder which meant that although it was held very securely it was easy to break the bond from the thin layer of solder. 



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 19:27
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Rob Pulham
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This is the boiler and smokebox assembly after my recovery.




Those with sharp eyes will not the piece of scrap protruding from the front of the smokebox.



There is a clever bit of the etch designed to ensure that you get everything lined up by inserting a piece of scrap into a slot etched into each of the three forward formers




I left it longer than suggested and used it to view down through all the apertures in the boiler top. In fact I left it in place as I soldered on the castings on top of the boiler. To solder these cleanly I flattened a couple of small bit's of 145 solder in some pliers, placed them either side of the chimney opening after using a taper broach to open the hole up to take the spigot from the casting as tightish fit. a squirt of flux and then I place the chimney on top ensuring that it was square I heated the casting with the microflame until the solder melted allowing the casting to sink into place. - Repeated for the next casting (which I have to be honest and say I have no idea of the name or purpose of it).

At this point the Firebox, boiler and smoke box are all a nice tight push fit I won't make it more permanent until I am happy with everything.

Finally, I had fitted the cab roof on Tuesday but I still need to sort out the subframe under the floor.









Last edited on 4 Jan 2018 19:28 by Rob Pulham



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 19:37
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Toto
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Very neat job Rob. :thumbs:



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 14:42
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Rob Pulham
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Mind the Gap, the age old saying on the railways.

Mine was a little more fundamental as noted in my earlier query as to whether anyone else had, had the same issue with theirs. 

Because I didn't have the benefit of the updated instructions that a gent on Western Thunder kindly shared (I have emailed Dave to ask for a set of the updated instructions) I had previously added the cab front overlays and soldered all around the seams. This meant that tucking the front of the curved section up under the top layer of the cab front was not possible - I worked on the theory that if I tried to remove the thin overlay I would irreparably damage it.

That left the alternative which was cut/file the front section down so that it sits just below the footplate rather than tucked in behind the front plate and to desolder and file down the sub frames until the curve better matched that of the sides of the cab.




As you are looking at it, it took two goes at desoldering, filing down, before resoldering to test the fit for the left hand subframe and six goes for the right hand subframe.  At each desoldering I carefully cleaned up before filing a little more off. You may wonder why I resoldered at each test, it was because I couldn't hold it in close enough proximity to accurately check the fit when trying to hold all the parts while they were 


I have to say that had I continued with the build to this point when I started back in 2011 or so, I would never have had the confidence to desolder and resolder the same part so many times to get the fit that I wanted. I would never have been happy with it either.











The slight gap on the right hand in this view will close up when I solder it all in but I am triple checking all is right before taking the final step.

Last edited on 5 Jan 2018 14:43 by Rob Pulham



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 14:55
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Toto
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Big improvement Rob.:thumbs:



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 15:42
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Keith M
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The phrase "Patience of a Saint" springs to mind! Beautiful job Rob.:thumbs:

Keith.



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 19:53
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Rob Pulham
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Thanks gents,
I am determined to finish it this time but I don't want to bodge it to finish it because it's one that will never be sold on since Chris bought me the kit as a gift when she was really ill.



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 Posted: 8 Jan 2018 16:28
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Rob Pulham
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Further work over the weekend has seen it start to look like a loco at long last.













At the moment all except the cab, the reversing lever and it's housing are just sat in place and are held by the firm fit of the components. - The sand shields are just lent in place because I need to drill them yet for the sandbox fillers. I am slightly surprised that they don't have at least some semblance of a hole etched in them given how well everything else is portrayed. 


I also need to drill and put a self tapper in the top of the cab face of the firebox to close up the very slight gap on the drivers side before I solder it in place. The instructions suggest doing this but I thought that I had got away without the need until I put everything in place.

Last edited on 8 Jan 2018 16:29 by Rob Pulham



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