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LNER Class Y7
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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 15:09
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Toto
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I've ordered up one of these to use along side one of my loco depot tender wagons. I had originally ordered a Nellie starter kit for this but realised that this has a coal bunker along its cab's back wall.

The Y7 does not so I can take the flat back wall and cut a pair of slim access doors in it to give access to the tender truck.

The Y7's coal bunker is to the left hand side of the head wall. Just a tiny thing. It means a bit of customising but it should not be too difficult.

Pictures when it comes.

Cheers

Toto



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 19:24
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Toto
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The Plan
Here is what I intend doing with the LNER Y7 & Loco Dept tender truck


The Y7 currently has a half back head running along the rear of the loco. the existing coal bunker for what it is is inside the cab to the left hand side of the boiler head plate and is very small. 
My idea is to make use of the space in the loco tender truck for additional coal which would give the loco a greater range. ( not that it necessarily needs it ) but it will just make it a little different. The two will be permanently coupled as a set.
The tender truck currently has a gap ( where the hatched area is ) and I thought I could try installing a plate that lowered and raised giving access to the coal storage are and also preventing any coal falling out as such. Again, just an excuse to play with it and modify it slightly. Two vertical rails will run one either side of the existing hatch from top to bottom and the hatch can be lifted and lowered as required.
thats it...... in a nutshell ...... or ..... a coal scuttle even.
cheers
toto  



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 20:13
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Rob Pulham
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Hi Toto,

A nice idea, and one I look forward to seeing. If you feel the need to upgrade any of the whitemetal castings for brass, Ragstone have the former Gladiator kit. I would be reasonably certain that Andy Beaton will have done many of the castings in brass since taking on the kit.

I have an Ace kit for a coffee pot (LNER Y5) but I bought a lot of upgraded castings for it from Andy (he brought out a kit for it about 8 months after I received mine as a Christmas present).

Last edited on 3 Jan 2018 20:50 by Rob Pulham



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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 20:41
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paul_l
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It would also go well with the Slaters Pug as well.

You could leave the whole cab rear off, and put a fall plate from the loco to the wagon, and even a tarp from the loco roof over hanging the wagon for driver / firemans comfort :whatever:

Paul

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 Posted: 3 Jan 2018 21:33
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Toto
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Hi Paul,
I had already thought about the tarp, rolled up hanging from the underside of the roof. I had not thought about removing the complete rear panel though.:scratchchin:
The only thing is, if I am talking about providing the tender truck to give the loco increased range, would you use a loco for traveling any distance without the rear cab or would that not be for very local work. Just thinking ........
Hi Rob, I already have some brass buffers for the loco but maybe some of the other fittings..... the clack pipe, whistle etc amongst any others available.
cheers
toto



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 10:22
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gormo
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G`day Toto,

If the truck is permanently coupled, are you considering putting extra pick ups in the truck.?????

Just an idea......:scratchchin:

http://www.click:tophat:Gormo



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 10:31
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Toto
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It could be done and it would improve on the loco pickups due to the nature of its short wheel base. Worth a thought. I'll look into the practicalities of it. :thumbs: good suggestion Sir.

Cheers

Toto



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 Posted: 4 Jan 2018 20:25
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Toto
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Some brass angle on its way from Eileen's emporium along with brass sheets.



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 14:47
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Toto
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Angle and sheet brass arrived today and also a couple of sets of bending bars for use on the likes of the sole bars. They let you get the second bend in. I'll post up pictures later.

Cheers

Toto



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 15:50
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Keith M
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Wouldn't a "Hold-N' Fold" be better for jobs where you have two folds in close proximity to each other Toto, as these tools have a much thinner (but still substantial) base so as to allow close folding of parts rather than quite thick bending bars? The lower tool in the pic is the type I mean.
Keith.

Attachment: IMG_0712.jpg (Downloaded 30 times)



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 16:43
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Paul


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Keith M wrote: Wouldn't a "Hold-N' Fold" be better for jobs where you have two folds in close proximity to each other Toto, as these tools have a much thinner (but still substantial) base so as to allow close folding of parts rather than quite thick bending bars? The lower tool in the pic is the type I mean.
Keith.
Ooh Keith you've set me on a mission now... I'm going to get one of these hold and fold tools... presume Elaine's is the place ?
cheers for now Paul



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 17:50
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Keith M
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I was lucky Paul, in picking mine up on Ebay from an 'antiques/collectables' shop who mis-described it. I realised what they were trying to describe, jumped in quickly ("He who hesitates is lost!) and got it much cheaper than the actual current cost. There are a number of different size versions of this tool, and I believe my version is the largest, with a number of different sized 'fingers' which are useful with narrow material. Do you by any chance mean "Eileens Emporium" when you refer to "Elaines"??? I believe they do sell this tool, not sure about price, and I have seen them on sale at some trader stalls at some of the larger shows. Definitely worth the money if you do any metal kit building, as I wouldn't be without mine now.
Keith.



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 17:55
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Toto
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Hi Keith,

What length is your hold and fold ?



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 18:12
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Keith M
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Hi Toto.
Long side is 20.5cm, short side 10.5cm, the 'shiny alloy' top section is completely reversible so you can use it on either long folds or reverse it and use a suitable width of one of the narrow 'fingers' to bend narrow stuff. I've found that if what you want to bend (at least, in 0.3mm brass sheet) is too long for the tool, by bending around a third of the length at each end first, you can then clamp the centre part and bend also, (best done in several stages though!) without causing unwanted creases or wrinkles. Great thing is that as the alloy part tapers almost to a point at the leading edge, you can still put in a second bend to form quite a narrow channel section without difficulty.....it's definitely one of the best and most useful tools I've ever bought for working with sheet brass. The other tool in my pic is a "GW" wheel press/quartering tool, which makes loco driving wheel fitting/quartering a doddle.......don't know if there's one available for the larger gauges though.
Keith.



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 Posted: 5 Jan 2018 18:16
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Toto
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Thanks Keith.

I jumped in and bought a 5.5 inch version. :facepalm: which is considerably shorter but it will still work. Just means making the folds in increments.

Cheers

Toto



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