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Disraeli Gears
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 Posted: 17 Nov 2016 21:26
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paul_l
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Very impressive change of location, of course, two sets of buildings and backscenes and you have two layouts

Paul

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 Posted: 17 Nov 2016 21:28
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anthony07
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Thanks Paul.



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 Posted: 21 Nov 2016 02:32
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SMR CHRIS
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Hi Anthony just catching up
Some nice additions to the look of the layout
The buildings look great and you have to be impressed when you do something yourself and the Gormo inspired back scene, very nice.:thumbs:



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 Posted: 21 Nov 2016 10:46
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ianvolvo46
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Really impressed with the way you're developing the layout Anthony ... keep an eye on Paul he'll have you building lots of layouts at the same time ... he does that

Ian



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 Posted: 21 Nov 2016 15:49
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anthony07
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Thanks Chris & Ian,

I just couldn't get the "factory" version of Disraeli-Gears straight in my head, it just never seemed right. Then, on playing with the software that Gormo featured, I I realised that the railway on my doorstep would be the best one to base a layout on. I will build a larger, more accurate version in the future but this little layout will serve as a "schoolroom" for learning how to model



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 Posted: 30 Jan 2017 17:41
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anthony07
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Haven't done a lot for what now seems like an age, I was diagnosed with an illness the cure for which is worse than the symptoms of the illness! The extreme tiredness associated with the meds has limited my interest in mostly everything but I have managed to put together a preliminary build of the Wisbech & Upwell depot office. It is scratch built using Scalescenes papers. I will be rebuilding it with more precision in the future and I am not happy with the ridge tiles in particular as they don't stand out as prominently as the originals.

Attachment: 2016-12-19 13.09.12 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 68 times)



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 Posted: 30 Jan 2017 17:42
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anthony07
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And another view;

Attachment: 2016-12-19 13.08.46.jpg (Downloaded 67 times)



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 Posted: 30 Jan 2017 20:24
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paul_l
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Hi Anthony

Sorry to hear you not doing too well and hope you're better soon.

For ridge tiles, I have used spaggetti as a former, then used silver tissue paper to represent lead flashing, but ypu could use brick paper instead.



Paul

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 Posted: 30 Jan 2017 20:25
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anthony07
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That looks good Paul, thanks for the tip, I will give that a try.



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 Posted: 31 Jan 2017 11:35
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jakesdad13
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That little Wisbech shed looks great, Pauls suggestion for the ridge tiles is spot on, plus you could also use ally food tray flattened and cut into strips laid over the spaghetti which would give a bit more thickness to the tiles.
Pete.



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 Posted: 31 Jan 2017 11:41
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Gary
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Or you could double up the thickness of the ridge capping...  :thumbup:

Cheers, Gary.

ps. The shed looks good to me. :thumbs:



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 Posted: 31 Jan 2017 15:34
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anthony07
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Thanks guys, the idea of the tin foil plus the spaghetti former sounds good, the prototype has quite prominent, separate ridge tiles so those tips seem worth a try.



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 Posted: 6 Feb 2017 11:57
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Echidna
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Hello Anthony,

Using the neodymium magnets is preferable to the Kadee type as it allows for more adjustment in location and it is a lot neater and easier to install.

Also use actual Kadees as they are metal, the plastic copies lack the mass for continual shunting that an Inglenook presupposes.

Two alternative methods of uncoupling a is to use the Rix " h " shaped uncoupler or use a bamboo or plastic skewer to open the jaws . The skewer will not work with plastic look alike couplings.

Lance Mindheim who has published a number of articles in Kalmbach's Model Railroader and is owner of The Shelf Layouts company ( http://www.shelflayouts.com ) and who specializes in small shelf switching / shunting layouts set in Florida ( CSX ) also cuts off the Kadee tails and uses a skewer only.

You could also consider using a cassette to change over trains at the single line entry, thereby reducing handling of the actual train.

Also with the Kadees when uncoupling you need to reverse and then move forward to allow the jaws under magnetic uncoupling control to engage for pushing , so when you do your measuring for your sidings allow enough room for this manoeuvre to take place . Also bear in mind that the wagons are not meant to touch the buffer stop ( in real life hitting the buffers can cause a lot of damage even at very low speeds ) . Also be aware that there needs to be sufficient clearance between adjacent sidings to ensure that wagons stopped on an adjacent siding are not clipped by movements on adjacent lines .

If you can access some Model Railroader magazine with Lance's articles his illustrations will show you what to avoid .

I think the Inglenook is an excellent shunting layout providing you are aware of potential difficulties.

Looking good, so best wishes,

Regards, Echidna

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