Over spray of black onto the lower portion of the grey body, provides a subtle level of - as our Military modellers would say - pre-shading, just adding a slightly darker tone to the paint. The paint doesn't half change the look of the wagons Paul
Rob, I'm still not happy with those V1/2 roofs, so if you haven't done anything with them I will reprint them at 45 x 45. We are away in the Lakes for the next few days so I will make a start when we get back. Mossy
I have given them a blast of primer but I agree they are not great when compared to the rest of the model.
I haven't done much 3D printing for a few days basically because I have very little resin left, anycubic accepted an order for 6 litres of resin on the 22nd July but failed to supply it. I finally got around to contacting them on Wednesday. What a response "we don't supply that resin in your country" to which my response was so when are you refunding the money. Deathly silence until someone finally responded saying we can't refund it but would you chose a different resin that we can supply. What happened to customer service? Any way for an extra $28 I now have 6 litres of Craftsman Grey on route to me. On the plus side the Mono X is fixed, so I have chosen these two wagons to be the next for printing A Bouch Brake Van which has a straight forward but very detailed body and a complex brake system, more like loco brakes than normal wagon gear. There are 28 individual components, but I hope to print them as 14. The screen grab shows just over half of one sides brake gear The second project is a bit of a departure for me, a D25 Carraige truck. Leaving aside the running and brake gear, there are 4 main components. The body. The two doors posed open are separate components and hopefully they will be hinged so they can be opened or closed. The floor with its internal bits is a separate print with the two carriage wheel securing beams as separate prints. The roof (boring) makes it 3 and finally the chassis. The reason the chassis will be printed separately is the complexity of the underside. I couldn't think how best to support a body/chassis combination so the chassis is being printed upside and hopefully marries up to the body. That will be squeaky bum time. Mossy
I like that, are you having both sets of doors opening or just the one? - Thinking how vulnerable it might be when handling until you get the roof/ floor attached.
Rob, One end is closed, the other possibly open/closed (if it works). I thought two open ends would be a bit vulnerable, also if it doesn't work I can duplicate the closed end and use it at the other end.
Hi Mossy Great news the Mono X is back up and running. For the carriage truck open end(s), you coul add a union Jack shaped bracing, with a 2mm gap between the bracing and the frames. The gap being bridged by 0.5 to 1mm dia rods. I'd try to 0.5mm first, moving up to 1 mm if they dont work. Once printed you can cut the bracing out. I did similar on the Passenger tank chassis to stop it folding in. Paul
Paul, That's a great suggestion I need to have a fiddle about to see how best to fit it in, cheers. It also means if the hinging works, it could have opening doors at both ends. Mossy
My version of Pauls "Union Jack support" not as neatly drawn but hey it will do the job. Since my sides are substantially higher than his chassis frame I went for 3 points of contact not 2 and 1mm diameter pegs from the start, I also made the decision to insert a couple more either side of the sides central doors. Thinking forward, a rarity for me, the lower half of the frames will need removing before joining the chassis, floor and body. What odds I forget! Mossy
If your doing the doors to open, I’d fit the scaffold in that opening too and print the doors separate? opps, reread… end doors not side doors.. sorry!
Andy, one pair of end doors will be printed separately, that's why there is a union jack in their place. If it works it would be possible to remove the two fixed doors to be printed separately and replace them by another union jack.
Just make sure you can get a set of side cutters in to be able to cut the supports free. An extra couple of ties may be worth while (5 a side). May also worth fitting a union jack to the bottom to keep the sides from bowing in. Paul
Your wish, my command sensei, pegs upped from 3 to 5 and 2 new ones horizontally placed at the bottom along with a tweak of my own, removing the excess tails top and bottom which will improve access when cutting them out. Mossy
Three hours later and feeling a bit brave I modelled the body with both ends open with an extra union jack support. Will it work, who knows but if the supports hold one end open why not two? I may well even risk a print some time. Now I'm wondering if the side doors could be made to open, hmmm sounds like play time to me. Mossy
Mossy, with those curved ends I’d add some vertical bracing from the Union Jack. (incidentally, if you Google, it’s actually only a a Union Jack when flown on a boat, otherwise is it union flag! I digress)
Andy, I was planning to add supports underneath the arches that will link down onto the "union flag". As for creating opening doors, that proved much simpler than I thought. Only 1 door posed open, .5mm wire for the hinges:
Fresh from having a bath, by far the largest body I have ever printed, just shy of 7 hours. It will be interesting to see if it's worked when all the supports have been stripped away. Some of other smaller parts were printed with it, but being Mossy, 4 door opening so I printed 2 set's of doors. Luckily there is plenty of room on the other prints to add the missing parts. The Chassis and bits are now printing to be followed by the floor structure, the 2 combined will take most of the day. Mossy
Well it's out of it's supports and more than slightly disappointed, honestly I have over supported it and like an older lady has bulges where bulges shouldn't be, I am not even going to photograph in. The support structure needs a total rethink. Having said all than a perfectly usable test bed, so onwards and upwards. Mossy