Ace Products 7mm Finescale O Gauge SR/BR Q1 Kit

Cheers Rob, yes I’ve tinned the rods before of other kits but having read a few builds lately, it seems that the steel rods are the way to go.
Yes correct these are the new plastic insulated type, hope I’ve ordered the right type ?

Regards Kim

 

So the first job was to make up the Slaters Steel coupling rods as these will be used to align the hornblocks in the frames. A quick trip down to Bunnings for the correct flux, then a case of tinning the backs of the rods, middle one’s on both sides.
Using cocktail sticks, align the three piece and pushing them against a couple of nails in a block of wood, then
it’s a straight forward job to sweat the pieces together applying some pressure to the top as you work the soldering iron along the rod.

And after the first two rods where laminated together to form one side, a comparison between the supplied etched versions and the steel ones....

There’s a supplied rivet to fit at the joint which I will do when both sets have been made up and cleaned.

Kim

 

Thanks York Paul.

Time to start cutting metal .

First job was to put the two chassis sides back to back and then add a small tack of solder to hold them together, this will then allow me to cut out the horn block openings in both sides at the same time ( not the center ones, these will be done seperate) which will hopefully make for a more accurate finish.

As you can probably see from the photos above, by cutting out the openings I will loose the centre’s / helght of the axles, not good, so I’ve made up a jig, a simple hardwood block with the three axle positions accurately marked and drilled out with a 3/16th bit.

Then reaming out the axle holes to accept the kit’s supplied bearings I can then slide the chassis sides down on to all three axles to check my measurements.

Placing the horn blocks in position to again check my markings.

Then using a fine saw I cut out the outside two horn block positions leaving the centre one which will then be used a reference position on the jig

Then using a file I’ve adjusted the slots to align the horn block center lines (pre marked in the moldings ) with the marks on the chassis sides.

I then unsoldered the two chassis sides and checked both on the jig separately , once happy with both of them I then used JB weld to fix the outside two horn blocks in position adding some weights until they have set rock hard. I then repeat the same process for the other chassis side.

Next job will be to cut out the centre horn block positions , return it to the jig, which will allow the outside two axle positions to accurately center the middle hornblock........

Kim

 

Cheers Kerry, I’ll check my copies when I get home this weekend. I don’t think I have that copy, so may take you up on the offer.
I’m in WA, Halls Head.
Regards Kim

 

Still awaiting some parts from the uk so I’ve started the tender.

Very simple to build, went together so quick I forgot to take pictures, using the loco jig.....

It was just a case of installing the wheel bearing into the side frames, feed both into the jig, then add the tab and solder spacers, solder up in the jig, and there you have a nice square running chassis.

Lots and lots of rivet detailing to knock out, then on to the tender base plate. Solder up a couple of nuts ready to secure chassis to body, add the side frames, buffer beams and the tender front. Now the slot in the base plate for this is in the wrong position, as noted in the revised instruction, so the tab has to be cut off and then a line added 8mm in front of the slot to show where the correct position is. A check with one side panel confirms its in the right position, but just in case I’ve only used 100 degree solder to make it easy to remove. Once I’ve soldered the sides on I’ll add 179 solder to secure it. I’ve added the coal opening and shelf.

Just a quick check to make sure the chassis fits, which it does, now the task of bending the tender sides, not quite sure how I’m going to tackle this

Kim

 

Tender sides have bent up quite nicely using a rolling pin on a couple of tea towels plus the vise with protective jaws for the tighter upper bend.

Dry fit

Some fine tuning.... then tack soldered in position on the rear panel.

Tack soldered along the base plate

Check the cab end joint

Then draw solder from inside to the outside of the joint

A good clean up to see how the ends have joined up...

Probably the most un prototypical Q1 tender side ever, judging by some of the photos Dodgy Roger and Kerry have supplied me with, they did have a hard life !


Time for the second side>......................... Kim

 

And tonight’s efforts have ended up with......

Kim

 

York Paul.

Today’s efforts....

Rear upper panel of the tender had the detailing added before fitting and I also decided to fit to rear detailing lamp irons because i could solder them from inside which made for a cleaner joint. Then the top rear panel was added, set 3.5 mm below the middle of the rear panel. Tacked first with low melt solder, checked then soldered up with normal solder.

These next two picture show two differences from all the reference photos Kerry and Roger have supplied me with.
First picture shows how there is no opening in the cab panel. This is quite noticeable and will have to be sorted out.
Second difference is where the fire iron tunnel finishes. All the reference shot show it finishing inline with the curved side frame, so I might fabricate and extension.

So out with the dremel and cutting disc to make an opening....looks a lot better to my eyes now..

The white metal part needs a door lining marked as again in the photos it’s quite prominent, so out with the Olfa scribe to sort it out.

Back panel fitted over the hole and the tender cab roof added.

Still a fair few smaller bits to add, but at the end of today’s session this is how she looks ready for some cleaning up.

Kim

 

A bit more progress today.....

There’s some detailing to do on the chassis but at the moment I’ve no idea how the bits come together or exactly where they fit.

Brake rigging still to sort out, couplings and buffers all made up and ready to fit in the next session.

Kim

 

Spot on Roger, thank you once again. So it looks like I need to do a little bit of scratch building.
Kim