LUMSDONIA ¦Layout and Website

And the result is, chopped the corners off and added coping stones. {the colour is realistic this time!}

 

Thank you Dublo, nice to get confirmation by a hexpert, especially as I model from my memory, rather than directly from photo's. My dry brush technique gets better every time I have a go, it is surprising how ordinary cheap artists acrylics (I just have six colours) can be mixed to every hue required and give great results. Underside carbon streaks duly noted. Final touch up and weathering will be done once installed on the layout.

Yep I think I will order two craftline and see how I go, may have to add some detail, ropes, fenders, plant pots etc.

 

I was 'ad! Never thought, but the Craftline boats are actually Broad beam canal boats! Did not twig till I started making my own photo realistic printed side papers, had to expand the pics sideways to make them wide enough. I will have to re-look at the width of the canal and it's over arching bridge above! May not be enough room for the towpath!

 

Things are progressing! I will take some piccies tomorrow in better light. The stayed cable bridge has been fully cabled, the deck is made and prepared for all the cables. Stone bridge has one side completely covered. All 5 steel bridges are made and painted.
I need some fencing for the bridges. I have bought enough for the cable stayed from a laser cutting company, torri_laser, but I don't want the same for the steel chord bridges and cant find anything suitable that is reasonably priced for the length, so tonight I made a jig and started making my own from 0.8mm brass wire! (it takes forever!)
I have cobbled together enough photo's to patch them together to use on one barge, checked the clearance and the canal and a tow path will fit under the bridge (I left the end too long to enable integration into the cliff) I will make a pose of it under the bridge in the piccies.

 

So as promised, first, a check of the canal clearance for a broadbeam canal boat, yay it still has enough room for the tow path, but will now not get much chopped off the end that meets the cliff!


Second, a look at the brickwork, rolled on with texture roller. The corner stones are laid on after and grooved. This is the back (unseen side) that serves as the first go, I have yet to tackle the other side. I am not sure I like the corner sides sticking out proud (it was a quick fix to lay DAS on, after the sides had been applied).
I have yet to decide if I can stomach routing out a rebate into the brick after laying the brick, although I could do it by cutting when soft when I lay the bricks on the other side.
Yes I know the bricks ain't very even, but this was a test. Obviously rolling the pattern is good on a flat surface, but moving it to the bridge, inevitably allows stretch and misshaping before it lands! I am not sure that rolling on the bridge won't produce an undulating surface!

 

I think I had in my mind that some Quoin Corner stones where stepped out from the main courses, but yes, putting a chamfer on the inner edge may make it look more realistic, good call.

 

I have the advantage of a 3D model, so can check dims before the build, the canal may not be as high as the picture shows. There is 40mm between canal and river surface levels, over a 150mm gap with the road in between, plus I can chop as much as i want off the bridge legs if needed. If the embankment between road and canal is too steep, then yes I can always add a supporting wall.

 

So on to the cable stay bridge. The deck consists of 6mm ply, with a 20mm x 10mm aluminium tube under the centre and 15mm x 10mm aluminium angle at each side. The holes are drilled for the cables and preshrunk heatshrink inserted in each {they will act as a sleeve to allow the cable to move freely}, at the correct angle and glued in. Screws are adjacent to each hole underneath, with a spring attached which (hopefully) will keep each cable independently, taught. The gap between the aluminium will be covered by a plate to hide the cables and springs.



The tower has holes for the cables, with a brass sleeve before the hole to keep the knot away, allowing preshrunk heatshrink to protrude, but not slip down the cable. As this means nothing is glue at the top, easy maintenance or replacement can take place. The slot was needed to allow threading of the cable deep own the tube and will be covered by a plate later on.




HST is for scale!

 

Just added a Static grass Applicator guide to my website and started of a new page for 2019 in the gallery section, to catch up with the bridge valley module!

 

Took a brake from bridge building. I will have two canal boats on the canal and wanted some kayaks on the river, but they are about £12 a pair! So I had a go myself and knocked these two out in about an hour!

 

Not sure that would work as it would be wrapped around about 4-5 times!
I actually bought a rolling pin. Don't tell the wife, it is better than her's! Metal with discs on the ends to control thickness.
I was thinking of using a thin sheet to roll it on and then slide off, but I think they key method I will apply this time, is to let it dry slightly (4-8hrs) after rolling and embossing, before attempting to transfer, should be harder/less tacky to handle. We will see!