G`day Folks and Welcome to Gormo`s Shed, This episode explores my method for making security fencing or chain wire fencing, if you prefer. Now let me say at the outset, that purists will have difficulty with some of the materials and measurements I am using……..so for those people ...you have been warned. Let`s not get into SCALE WARS…….now there`s an idea for a movie…..sounds familiar though ??????? Now in terms of scale and measurement, to me, if something looks right in a scene, well then it is right, regardless of how it`s been put together in terms of scale measurements. Quite often we reduce the size of a model building set near the back scene to force perspective and create the illusion of distance. Strictly speaking the building is not to scale, but it still looks good and in most cases, achieves the desired effect. The mesh I`m using in this method is fly screen wire mesh and is way too heavy for this application. But when I look at it, it seems to look OK…..so that`ll do me. The other option of course is to get the proper mesh to do the job and Gary has told me he got his through a Ratio kit. It is so fine and really looks the part. Unfortunately for you guys watching this video, I have just used what I had, so that`s the way it is I`m afraid, however the fine mesh could be used with this method and I think it would look terrific. So there you and away we go. Gormo
Hi Gormo, As usual, I'm getting this in time to face out to work. I'll catch up with the video tonight on my return. I agree with what you say regarding the scale though. If it looks sweet ...... then it is. ..... and ....... can possibly save you a small fortune. Cheers Toto
Excellent tutorial Gormo. I'm curious to know if photo mount glue (aerosol) would be an easy option to fix the mesh to the posts/rails. I realise a lot of glue would go to waste, but it surely would beat applying super glue with a cocktail stick or a strand of wire. With this method of using aerosol photo mount glue, you could tape down a length of mesh, spray the frame then lay it on top. Once set, trim up the excess mesh like you had done with your example. Cheers, Gary.
Sorry Toto for the timing, But now you know the video awaits your return home, you can prepare in advance with cans of the brown stuff, crisps, popcorn and any other nibblies that suit your gentle disposition. Enjoy your day and don`t work too hard. Gormo
Yes interesting idea Gary.... Ray Wilson on YouTube has suggested something very similar. I tend to lean towards the photo mount glue. Ray also suggested possibly white glue....I assume he meant PVA,?...however I feel the photo mount glue would go off quicker.? Now if we go back to the Superglue, I reckon I could do 50 cm sections in maybe 15mins. The advantage with the Superglue most likely being a superior bond. So I have some spray adhesive I think...???....so I`ll give it a go......I still have a section of wire cut that was surplus to needs....so I`ll let you know how it turns out. The one thing I will do before spraying though, is lay some baking paper underneath the wire. No sense gunking up whatever is underneath the wire. Gormo
Thanks Ian, Glad you liked it.......it`s not as violent as the last one......I`m lucky I wasn`t struck off for cruelty to plastic people...... Gormo
The one thing I will do before spraying though, is lay some baking paper underneath the wire. No sense gunking up whatever is underneath the wire. Gormo[/QUOTE] I hope that's not a reference to my unfortunate accident on our living room table Gormo Ian vt
If I could make a suggestion, in the UK, (don't know about Oz though) we can get rolls of self adhesive plasterboard jointing tape from the likes of Wickes, but any builders merchant should have similar. This is exactly the sort of mesh needed, and seems to look ok and 'in scale'. I've used quite a lot as my fencing material and you can actually buy exactly the same stuff from Javis, the only difference is that it's 1" wide whereas the jointing tape is 2" wide, but it's very easy to cut it down the middle and that gives you double the amount, or leave it uncut for 0 gauge! The real difference is jointing tape is MUCH cheaper than the Javis stuff, and lots more on a roll, plus no need for spray adhesive! Keith.
Now there`s an idea for a cameo......one of those electric welding LED`s placed behind an electrified child hanging off the wire fence. Nah......that`s shocking !!!....better not Gormo
I hope that's not a reference to my unfortunate accident on our living room table Gormo Ian vt[/QUOTE] No,no, certainly not Ian......the thought never entered my mind........well not until you mentioned it..... Gormo
Well Gary, I tried Boyles Spray Adhesive. All I did was prepare the flyscreen mesh and did a trial run of how I would place it on the fence, once the fence had been sprayed. I then sprayed one side of the fence frame, then lay it on it`s back on the desk adhesive side up, then placed the flyscreen on top and positioned it quickly and pressed it down ever so lightly to make good contact with the glue. Result....SPOT ON !!!!! in no time at all. So there you are....your idea was excellent and it works a treat...throw the Superglue back in the drawer folks and get some spray adhesive. With this method you can make a considerable length of fence very quickly. One thing I would suggest, is that if you are joining pieces of flyscreen mesh on the fence frame, cover each section you glue to the fence to protect it ,before spraying anymore adhesive. I guess cling film would be satisfactory for temporary protection.You don`t want a sticky fence. Top suggestion Gary.......thank you Gormo
Bad news Gary, After 24 hours, the spray adhesive seems to let go and the flyscreen mesh falls off. Possibly the glue will not take to the nylon mesh or to the metal or both..???........I have used Boyles Spray adhesive which seems to do the job at first. So I don`t know............any suggestions welcome, because this would be the preferred method if it could work properly. We still have the Superglue method as back up, and that seems to work fine, even if it takes considerably longer to complete. Gormo
A trick from the model aircraft fraternity is to use a caneite board (or pin board in Bunnings) with Glad wrap over it, and pin the parts down with map pins or T pins when gluing