The DCC decoder fom John at YouChoos arived in the week, so today's little job was to install it in the Sancheng Fowler 4F I picked up a couple of weeks ago. I'm using my normal choice of decoder, Zimo MX645R with a large stay-alive First job is to remove the small brass screw on the draw bar linking the tender to the loco Then remove the 4 small screws, 2 at the front and two at the rear, to allow the body to be removed from the chassis Chassis removed, you can see what a neat little unit this is. I've been running the model on a TCS decoder, that I have used in OO gauge rolling stock, to test and run the locomotive in. The hole into which all the bits and bobs will have to pass through. Speaker selection needs to be a careful choice so that all the electronics fit through the access hole and can then be pushed back into the boiler. I normally like to drill out the chimney hole. As the brass is quite thin its an easy job to do with a small drill then open out with a reaming tool. This I have found easier to do than using a large drill as the metal can heat up quickly and you don't want anything un-soldering. I do the same on plastic o gauge and oo gauge locos. Trying out several speakers and stay-alives to see what will fit in. I ended up using a Zimo LS55x22x9 4ohm 2 watt twin speaker in a 3d printed enclosure. These speakers give excellent loud sound. (to loud sometimes but the volume settings can be altered at set up} Soldering up the track power wires and motor wires is a simple job. All the joints are then insulated I found that I could tape a large stay-alive to the back of the speaker which passed through the access hole and slid into the boiler easily followed by the decoder. I like to insulate all the wires and joins on these speakers when fitting into a brass locomotive. Next job is to set it up on the program track and set the cab number plus set the chuff rate to the wheel revolutions.
Although it almost seems a shame to paint a shiny brass loco, are you intending painting it Kim? Zimo and 'Youchoos' are my preferred option also when it comes to sound fitted loco's, John Gymer the proprietor of 'Youchoos' is a very helpful chap I've found. Keith.
Thanks Toto. Hi Keith, yes this one will go the same way as the brass J94 I did a few weeks back. But as the weather is so bad here at the moment it will run as is for a while. Yes John is very helpful, I managed to meet him at a show in the UK, it was nice to put a face to a name. His later sounds files are very good. One of the biggest advantages with buying from YouChoos (especially living in Australia) is being able to listen to the sound file on his web page. A few of his competitors should offer this. Kim
Well after sitting on my layout / shelf for over a year, current world events have spurred me on to put some projects to bed. first job was to dismantle the locomotive, remove the wheels and motor, plus the sound decoder. The tender wheel were also removed. All parts then cleaned and degreased then a coat of Bunnings etching primer. 48 hours later, sprayed with a satin black. re assembly (not an easy job getting the wheel sets back in) completed I then added a working white lamp to the front of the loco and also a firebox flicker light. Cab number added, I’ve ordered some tender decals as I’ve run out of the late BR ones. The smoke box has had an etched number plate added from Narrow Plant uk. next jobs will be to paint and add the sand boxes and the coal rail, plus paint up a crew. Buffer beams have been painted white ready for a coat of red (red paint will always look better on a white primer).... more to come over the next couple of days....... Kim
When I first got this model, I think Chris pointed out one of issues with it are the large flat head screws holding the rods on. I seem to remember him saying that he swapped the screws out for hex bolts. I’ve got nothing suitable in my stash so I’ve come up with a quick fix for the time being. using some plastic rod, filed down to the correct width, then pushed into the slot with a tight fit you get this result. cut off the surplus and then file / sand the rod back until flush. a spot of black paint looks a lot better to my eyes. I think once the model is weathered it should all blend in and at a normal viewing distance look ok. Another missing detailing is the cab floor which is just a flat brass section, so again plastic sheeting to the rescue, scribed with an Olfa knife to form the planking then using my acrylic wood effect paint set, painted with several different shade. Again when weathered this will be toned down. MODELU3D figures added Have a great safe weekend. Kim
Update on the 4F. Transfers arrived last week for several locomotives and so I’ve finally got around to adding the tender emblem. So I think this one is done apart from some weathering. Here is a picture of both 4F’s I have, one an old kit that was purchased as a non runner with bits broken or missing. Now finished ready to sell on as this is a DC model (could be converted to DCC) and as I already have the Sancheng version is surplus to requirements. Clean or Dirty ? You decide. Link to the real 43924 https://preservedbritishsteamlocomotives.com/43924-lms-3924-br-43924/ Link to 4F Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LMS_Fowler_Class_4F