Hi Andy, They were printed directly from files in castable wax resin then off to the casters to be cast in brass. I think that Mike may have tinkered with the files a bit before he did them.
After my recent adventures with horse drawn vehicles I thought that I would have a go at drawing up a spoked wheel the lack of availability of suitable wheels has been what has held me back in the past from doing more with horse drawn vehicles which were so much a part of the railway scene in my chosen modelling era. Indeed my paternal grandfather was still delivering milk from his farm via horse and cart in the late 1950's The basic wheel and spokes took only a short time to draw up but it then took around an hour and a half to work out how to get the camber on the spokes. I deleted the ring of spoke multiple times before I got there.
Slaters do a horse drawn 4 wheel wagon in 7mm. They may sell the wheels separately. I know they will sell other kit parts so it might be worth giving them call. Pete.
Thanks Pete, I didn't know that Slaters did a horse drawn wagon. Now that I can draw them in 3D I can do them what ever size I need.
Just requires the metal tread on the outside now. Maybe add some breaks where the wood sections joined ? (as a thin chamfer?)
Can anyone tell me how to do Text on a model ? Ive decided to try and create something on Fusion as I could imput the drawing to work off (although The bloke who sent it has no scales on it and Im not convinced its the right size after email etc). I want to add CVR embossed but I cant get the emboss tool to do anything ? and nor can I find anywhere where there is even any kind of text box ? i'll soon be back on the old familiar system andy
Next question.. has anyone yet looked at textures? Added any new ones (such as brick?) do they come out on a model or is it just a photo finish for renders (that Will do me for starters) but I can’t worn out how to add more? Same goes for backgrounds..
By the way, anyone looked at this tool on Fusion where you can share your models ?? https://a360.co/2ZgarEm this was my Leek Signal box (I think you need to click to continue in browser on the first screen)
Hi Andy, I have added brass colouring or green and wood texture to some of my creations. As far as I know it just appears as a basic form in the design view or a more refined finish after rendering. Just press A on the keyboard and the 'Appearance' menu will pop up, scroll down the list and select what you want (you need to download some of them but it only takes a few seconds. Then drag and drop the colour/texture onto the body that you want to colour/texture. If you keep items as separate bodies you can have different textures/colours on each body but once you join them into a single object then you can only colour the whole object.
Sorry Rob, yes, I didn’t quite make the question clear.. I’ve done the above as you’ve seen the render drawings I have done.. what I meant to ask, has anyone as yet downloaded any third party extra textures and added them to fusion (I believe you can) or added in a photo background (there are some already there but not very railway esq.. andy
Hi Andy, Sorry for the late reply, I haven't downloaded any third party textures (TBH I didn't know such things existed until you mentioned them).
Those who read my ramblings may recall my mentioning and showing the odd photo of parts of a DJH LNER A3 that I built pre my joining Platform 1. I was never really happy with the paint job and Warren Haywood offered o strip and repaint it for me. I received it back from Warren and one of the casualties of the paint strip were the etched cinder guards from the cab side. There were a few others and I may start a thread on my process of putting it back together post painting. There used to be some really nice castings for Cinder Guards available from Hobby Horse but since Simon's retirement and the business not being sold they are no longer available. So I decided to have a go at drawing some up. My initial design taken from an A3 GA had the hinges with the two ears either side but looking closely at cab side photos of Flying Scotsman and Green Arrow showed me that they were different on LNER locos at least so I added the two hinges at the bottom of the image. I plan to get these cast by Mike Hopkins and Chris suggested that I also do some assembled so that I can see what works best in terms of castings - all told I need 7 or 8 sets for various loco kits that I have in my stash. I decided to do two options of the assembled item Option one is with the guard in it's open position at 90 degrees to the cab side option two is with them folded back against the cab side. To achieve this I needed to make them handed.
Nah, to be fair, it’s possibly not something we would use much in our 3D modelling unless we’re doing the photos.
Hi Rob, Back in harness after a lovely DRY week in Northumberland, ok it rained overnight but who cares when your asleep. I have been doing some test prints of one of your wheels to decide the best support system with mixed but consistent results. I did two using the Andy Sollis vertical print method, one I used the Chitu auto support system the other I placed the supports manually. The other two were printed at 45 degrees al la Paul L, again one used Chitu auto supports and the second I manually created the supports. The results, as you could guess both the vertical prints had no support marks on either the front face or the wheel tread surface, while the 45 degree prints had a few light support marks on the wheel tread face, but all four prints failed to print that incredibly thin rear outer wall of the wheel hubs. I have set up a new test using the vertical method, but reducing the contact sphere just for that hub down from .5mm to .1mm, but even that is larger than the wall thickness, it may well prove to be that the wall of the hub is just to thin to print successfully. Andy/Paul, if you have any good ideas please shout up. More later. Mossy
Hi Mossy I printed my loco wheels with the wheel horizontal (parallel to the build plate) with the inner face towards the build plate. I used some heavy supports with 0.5mm penetration for strength, then medium and light supports hold the rest up. As Rob has access to a lathe you coulu beef up the boss to allow heavier supports and rob can turn the boss down after printing, as I did for the for the wagon wheel flanges. On the existing models did you check for Unsupported Islands In Chitubox, slice as normal Then select the detect Island tool This will take a while, but will show up any areas that require additional supports to reduce print fails. Paul