Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Aug 11, 2021.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    2021-10-08.png Paul,

    I found the magic new number function when I built my NER Number Plate, which isn't as complex as yours.
    Just fiddling about I changed the number and blow me like magic the 3D model changed. A nice tick for Fusion 360.

    Mossy
     
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  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Gormo.

    The batch that ran overnight only 4 of the 12 plates printed whole, but even they didn't look great.

    So decided to try again just incase the resin was too cold overnight, after I've cleaned out the resin vat.
    As I removed the vat it felt that I had to release the clamping screws more to get the vat to lift / slide out, and then on the screen several bits of cured resin :headbanger:

    Fortunately this was on the Photon, which has a glass top screen (I know I've mentioned it before). Out with the razor blade and the bits and thin cured film were removed, cleaned up with IPA and everything is ok on the screen.
    Next up replace the fep film on the vat.

    Then retry the print


    Perfect, printed at 0.05mm layer height, I did think I was going to either beef up the print or print at 0.02mm layer height, but no need the prints have come out good.

    Also ordered up some Vallejo Dark Red acryllic paint, as these were painted a dark brick red.

    Need to fit a brake shoe to each side - believe it or not the wee bit of notes at the side of the MRC Drawing supplied by the guild has the following comment "The brake gear operated on one wheel at both sides of the wagon" NUTs :facepalm: at least Toto won't get at me for not reading the instructions, it's not a concept he's familiar with yet. My appologies to Andy, Rob and Mossy who tried to solve the issue for me :oops:

    Paul
     
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  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Should have removed the supports earlier, roughly broke in half as I tried to remove them - and yes Murphy made sure 1 of each plate broke before I gave up.

    OK time to try 0.02 layer height

    Grey resin failed :facepalm:

    Tried the same settings with Green resin - yes :thumbs: ........ NOOOOOOOOOO ....

    Creating a new profile for the 0.02 I didn't set the Mirror setting to LCD_mirror

    upload_2021-10-26_16-14-52.png

    All the text was printed backwards :facepalm: ......... now set as above and another print.

    Time to finally extract the finger and try and assemble one

    I'm using the fixed W iron version with Dapol split spoke wheels - I know it should be solid spokes, but I don't have any at the moment and I didn't want to try the 3D printed ones on the first build

    Drilling / reaming out the W irons for the Dapol bushes proved to be an issue, upto 3mm wasn't a problem, but beyond that the locating boss for the axle box would break. I didn't become that much of a set back as there was still enough left to locate the axle box.

    No prizes for guessing who forgot to take any piccies :hammer:

    So the first pics are with the W irons fitted



    Brass grab handles were bent up and fitted


    Next up the brakes




    the brake assemblies and the pivot block had been drilled out for 0.7mm brass wire

    The wire was threaded through the pivot block - i'm sure someone will tell me the correct name - and a little super glue applied to the slot with a tooth pick


    Then fitted to the brake assembly, and trimmed with enough extra to allow the brake lever to be added later.


    Paul
     
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  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Nice one Paul.
     
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  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Rob.

    Added the remaining brake equipment, and will trim the brass rod down once the glue has had a chance to harden.




    In the morning it's the turn of the buffer shanks, and to drill out the holes for the coupling hook, and if I get the chance a coat of primer.

    Paul
     
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  6. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    That's looking mighty fine Paul. Its nice to see you end up with those funny white lines all over and its not just me.

    Mossy
     
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  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Mossy

    The white lines are scratches from your finger nails, and is a sign that the model is under cured.I will probably give the model a few mins under the UV before cleaning for paint

    And talking of getting ready for paint, buffers attached - the heads are a temp fittment for show



    The remaining holes in the side are for the rings that the ropes are tied to, I have a plan for these but the loads need fitting first.



    Time to walk the dog, otherwise there'll be no peace - yeh as Ronnie Corbett would say "I know my place"

    Paul
     
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  8. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    "I know my place", yes 3ft behind and 2ft to one side, head bowed saying nowt cos whatever you say gets misinterpreted and causes offence.

    Been there got the badge in fact still have it tattooed across my forehead.

    Mossy
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :avatar:
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    By the way, 4 mins upside down, under the wash n cure, and the sides no longer scratch.

    Paul
     
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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Being playing with 123D again to knock up a quick 29mm back to back jig for assembling the diy wheels.

    Axle length is 46mm of 2mm dia stainless steel rod.

    upload_2021-10-27_14-35-43.png

    Printing a pair on the Photon - approx 2h 45m to go

    upload_2021-10-27_14-37-11.png

    The assembly will be as follows, the wheel shaft is reamed out with a 2mm reamer, then a slight chamfer applied to both ends of the hole.
    A piece of 2mm stainless stock is cut to 46mm +0 -0.5

    The wheels are threaded on to the 2mm axle and inserted in to the jig. With the back face held against the jig a drop of super glue is applied to both ends of the wheel half.

    Will post pics once the jig is printed / cured etc etc.

    Paul
     
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  12. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Guest

    Hi Paul I'm liking your 7 ton timber wagon build, the 3D items you are printing look really good. :thumbup:
     
  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Mark

    Just getting up the courage to fire the airbrush at the first one :whatever:

    Paul
     
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  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    If you are using acrylics IPA or Meths will bring it off if you make a mess of it. - You know how I know that....:headbanger:
     
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  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Looking great Paul.

    i need to return to my MTV wagon but just hit the brick wall with it and lacking motivation again. Slow burner.. plus i suspect there will be some more designs from Yorkie to do soon.

    must order resin.
     
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  16. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    great thread Paul :faint:... well beyond my capabilities ... er ... is it DC or AC/DCC ... just asking for a friend :facepalm:

    Ian vt
     
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  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Well I plucked up the courage and got the air brush out

    The livery for the wagon is Body & Solebars - dark brick red, plain white lettering. All Ironwork is black, and the wheel tyres are painted white

    Here goes - and yes I forgot to take photo's of the first few stages - one of the few disadvantages of acrylic paint as it drys so quickly, I just kept cleaning the brush and moving on to the next colour :facepalm:

    Vallejo Grey primer used neat out of the bottle.

    Tamiya Woodern Deck Tan (XF-78) thinned with X-20A thinner was applied to the inside of the wagon.

    Next a rough coat of Vallejo Premium Black - again straight out of the bottle. This was applied to the wheels, W irons, brake gear and the underside.

    I've used Vallejo Dark Red, this was quite thick, so I thinned it with Tamiya X-20A.




    It looks lighter than in real life due to the flash.

    I'll give it a couple of hours to dry before starting to brush painting the ironwork.

    Paul
     
  18. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    You were lucky with not getting a reaction between the X20A Thinner and the Vallejo paint. It works on some colours but not others. On the others it just curdles and the paint turns to cottage chees like substance. After having a few such issues I now stick to Vallejo thinners for Vallejo paints.
     
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  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Well every day is a school day.. I’ve always thinned Vallejo paint with water.. :facepalm:
     
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  20. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Andy,

    Thinning with water works fine for brush painting but if you try spraying it, there is a noticeable difference in both application and finish when you use proper thinners.

    I have also tried using neat IPA which again works fine on some of the Vallejo range but curdles others
     
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