Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

There is one draw back with the locators on the floor, with the floor being seperate, it needs to be in the correct position, putting them on the solebar may be a better idea.
I am liking the seperate floor tho'.

Paul

 

Fortunately, the only filing I've needed to do on the floor is for the notches to clear end beams. The sides haven't been touched at all, so remain parallel. However there is 0.5 mm play in the guides towards the center. Before gluing in place I check the alignment of the W iron to the underframe Iron work. So far all has been good - better to be lucky than good

One solution would be to put the guides on the underframes, but which is more likely to be out of square .

Then of course there is the reasoning / justification behind having a 3D printer

Now working on models 3 & 4, not bad for a weekends work.

Note the bright orange wheels, I've a go at printing some discs to represent the woodern centers.

Paul

 

Add paint and transfers

Weathering next

Paul

 

Thanks Guys

I think the trick here was thin paint and keeping the wagon vertical - allowing the pigment to pool towards the bottom on the plank.

Vallejo Grey Primer
Railmatch Dark BR Bauxite - two / three thin coats
Final thin coat(s) of Daler Rowney Burnt Sienna - from the Graduate acrylic range, thinned with Windsor & Newton Flow Improver and Railmatch Acrylic thinner.
Ironwork hand painted with Vallejo Black
Coated with W5 Floor Care, straight from the bottle - actually I did past it through a filter as the bottle is that old it's a bit cruddy around the top.

Transfers HMRS Sheet 20 - Scottish Pre-grouping Methfix. Applied using Microset, once dry Microlsol was applied, allowed to dry and done again. I was impressed with the results of the Microsol, as the transfers have sunk into the planks - not sure if it can be seen on the photo, but should be more apparent when the washes are added.

Paul

 

Hi Andy

For both the primer and body colours, the first coat is a mere fine dusting - almost appears as if you haven't used any paint. This acts as a coat for the next layers to adhere to.

I purchased some plastic bottles from ebay 10 or 17ml empty dropper bottles approx £6 for 25, and use them for my thinned / mixed paint.

Paul

 

Just finished lettering & numbering up the last van (middle red van No 293)

Applied Microsol to the transfers to bed them in.

Hopefully will apply a top coat of W5 Floor Coat to seal them in then can start the weathering.

The intention is to heavily weather the dark red wagons, as these would be over 20 years old for the paint scheme - my excuse is that I'm modelling in the post WW1 period, so these wagons have been dragged back into service during the war still in the older livery. The brown wagons had been lucky enough to have had a more recent repaint - still could be over 10 years tho. In both cases black washes will be used to age the paint work before applying the dirt layers.

We'll see how it turns out.

Paul

 

Cheers Paul - downside is I think that rake of four is approx 10% of the fleet

Just need to create a brake van to complete the train - actually I need at least 3 brake vans and another couple of Highland loco's to complete rakes of wagons.

Paul

 

Now a great believer of the "Better to be lucky than good" school of thought .........

I asked on the Highland Railway Society Forum, what the differences between the Type Q 8ton van (Dia 4) and the Type S 8ton luggage van (Dia 8), in the reference books I can find a drawing of the 8ft wide Dia 4 Van (Perter Tatlow's - Highland Railway Carriages and Wagons, page 149), all other references state they were very similar. Kelvin on the forum posted a picture showing the base van fitted with vacuum pipes (not working vacuum brakes - phew).

Livery is Green with yellow lettering.

So all I need to make to create the Type S is a pair of vac pipes - result.

Number ranges

Type Q 284 - 295 & 781 - 786

Type S 769 - 780

Note the continuity in the S to Q in the latter batch and probably explains why the consensus is they are basically the same wagon.

Time to produce some Vacuum pipes (actually I'm going to cheat and modify the rear Vac pipe from my HR Passenger Tank).

And just held in place

I will fit these after the body has been painted and couplings fitted.

Paul

 

Oh what fun .......

Being doing a bit of cleanup of my print files, consolidating the version numbers etc. etc.

Now feeling confident, and going for producing one wagon with seperate number plates. After all there was only 12 wagons.

I'd done number plates before, and had a nightmare with them breaking when removing them from the supports.
12 .stl files were create (one for each plate)
This time however I rotated them 45 degrees along the short side



Auto supports



Sliced and printed - whoopee came off the supports without issue. Now the real test, I then decided to leave them for a week (well nearly three actually as I printed them before Christmas and forgot all about them) and yest worked again.

Now feeling confident I decided to print them at 0.02 layer height rather than 0.05mm.

Printer No.1 started off using Anycubic Craftsman Apricot resin - on the last bottle now, and printer No.2 stated with its version of the file this time using white ABS like resin.

I did look at the estimated print times printer 1 56min, printer 2 100min - that doesn't sound right as Printer 2 is 1 sec per layer faster than printer 1, closer inspection Printer 1 was printing the 0.05 layer version, i'd forgot to delete if from the stick.

Printer 2 was going fine then 5 min into the print it froze, no movement of the build plate and the controls locked. Nuts, now was this a faulty print file, knackerd printer ...... mind was racing. Powered off/on the printer - see many years of IT experience coming to the fore here. And got manual control back. I now had a solid block of resin across the full build plate. Clearing the vat of resin to check for FEP damage and all ok. However it took the best part of an hour to prize off the lump from the build plate.

By this time printer 1 had finished its print. So what the hell lets try the print file on printer 1 (each file it generated with a different print profile for each printer due to the big difference in cure times). Started the print, and watched the printer like a hawk, head lowered, exposure started and it seemed to have crashed as well, so panic set in and I hit the stop key, and the print stopped - nuts I forgot the base layers on printer 1 are 40 sec not 20 sec of printer two .

Yet another build plate to clean



Ok so maybe it's the Printer 2 file thats faulty, so I selected another print file, that had already printed correctly on printer 2.

8 mins later the printer crashed, however before killing the power I did check online for similar faults

Knackerd control board - hope not

Corrupted firmware - fixable

Dodgy usb stick - easily checked - I hope

Pulled out the stick, and immediately up pops a message stating it can't speak to the usb stick, and I now have control of the printer from the front panel
A new stick was made up with the print files on it (not copied from the old stick).

Meanwhile I had cleaned up printer 1's build plate, and restarted the print, 122mins later, a perfect print was result, also the print quality was noticably sharper.

OK, printer 2 build plate was cleared up, this time I reverted to Craftsman resin, just in case there was an issue with cure times.
Now this was an easy fix as printer 1 had finished its print, I just swapped the vats between printers.

Printer 1 was restarted with the ABS like resin printing the nameplate files it had just completed, 122 mins later I have a successful print, so looks like I can get away with the same print settings for Craftsman and ABS like resins

Printer 2 was restarted with the new stick, craftsman resin and an established good print, 45 min later it completed without error PHEW !!!!!

Time for a strong drink, and it mightn't be coffee

Paul

 

After all of the above trials and tribulations, I decided to have a wee rest .........

I have made a little progress, and have been asked to make some of the 8 ton open wagons, but wasn't happy with the rope ties, just too flimsy.
Following on from the Van builds I have replaced the hook with wire - reataining the part that was welded to the bracket.

The wire is then added

Trimmed to length

Repeated for the remaining hooks

I did notice the diagonal ridge that was ceated

These models are printed 3 at a time



The print lines only appeared on the two model that tilted towards the rear of the build plate.
Looking at the photograph the lies start from the floor to the top corner of the side. Strangely only showing up on the external faces, the inside faces are unaffected.
Quick fix was to add (?) a couple of holes in the floor to release any vacuum being created in the area when the print was lifted between layers.

The holes were added using Chitubox 1.5mm in diameter, rather than modifying the original in Fusion 360.

The results

Left hand model is without holes, right hand model has the holes and has only had the supports removed.

Looking to do the same to the Timber wagons before I forget and print any more.

Paul