MOK 8F - LMS 8425

Hi Andy,

There were a number built during the war by the GWR for the War Office. This is one of them.

Even odder is the 8F's that were built by the Southern Railway for the LNER which after the war went back to the LMS... They were Classed as 06 by the LNER.


They also built some directly for the LMS



There were also 8F's built by the LNER and on loan to them for the duration.


Images copyright of GW Railwayana auctions used for educational purposes only.

 

Back when I got this kit 12 or more years ago there were no buffer heads in with it. Apparently they were supplied by Ron Chaplin and he had just retired.
I really should have pestered Dave Shap for some replacements but time went on and it's too late now. To get around it I imported the drawing into Fusion 360 and scaled it I then drew up the head to get dimensions and from there a happy few hours were spent turning some from some mild steel bar.

I wasn't thinking when I picked up a 6ba screw/nut thinking it was 8ba. I drilled out the buffer castings to take 6ba before realising my mistake so I made the buffer heads to take a 6ba nut. Fortunately I found some suitable springs.



They just need blackening now.

 

Needing a bit of a break from re-drawing the Firebox for the Princess my thoughts turned to front lamp irons. As I was working out what was needed I got side tracked by working out how I might machine some of the double lamp irons that the GWR fitted to the 8F's that they built



Not the best photo as it's a snip from a much larger photo found on the net to illustrate what I am talking about. The MOK kit does provide etches to make up this version of the lamp irons but I am not keen on etched lamp irons. I also thought that I would like to do them from nickel as the rest of the kit is nickel but I didn't have any nickel bar thick enough. I do have some 5mm rod so my first step was to machine the end square in the mill.

Then it was a case of working out how best to mill out the bits in between the lamp irons.

I milled a groove down one corner of the square section and then rotated the part to carefully mill from the opposite corner to leave the two upright irons





the tops were then rounded with a file before cutting off the main piece. I could have transferred the work piece to the lathe and part it off but I just cut it with a piercing saw them popped it in the vice jaws and milled the bottom flat.

 

Today I have made the final set of lamp irons for the 8F and thought I would share the method because it occurred to me that while I have used the mill the same result and basic method could be followed by someone with a file.

I started with some flat nickel bar
I cut off four 40mm lengths and soldered them together.



Once soldered together I milled all the edges flat. I needn't have done the ends but with the mill it was a simple task. Here I have milled out the front of the iron.

Then I turned the block over and milled out the rear

This is the finished job before cutting off with a piercing saw and separating them.



The finished individual lamp irons ready for final clean up with a file.

From the 40mm strips, I got eight lamp irons and I have enough material left already soldered together for a further eight which I will cut and put in the spares box.

 

Over the weekend in between checking over the Princess Firebox drawings, I fitted all the new lamp irons and I am happy that the upper tender is now complete.




I did straighten that bent middle lamp iron after seeing the photos.
I also replaced the etched Irons that are built into the MOK etches for the storage of spare lamps on the tender front.





I see that I should have made a better job of rinsing and drying after washing it too as the Flash Liquid seems to have left tide marks..

 

I think the simplest way would be a rinse in acetone if you have some Paul.

 

I agree Andy, but that would have been after many years of service. This will ultimately be depicted in the first few years of life so not too banged up.

 

The kit is designed for an RG7 but they haven't been available for a long time, ABC also did an inline unit especially for the 8F (it's what I have for mine) but I believe that ABC are pretty much out of production due to impending retirement and providing the motor gearbox units for Ellis Clarks forthcoming Black 5's.

I would suggest that you enquire of either MSC or Slaters to see if they do an inline motor/gearbox which would be suitable.

This is the sort of thing that you are looking for


Obviously it doesn't need to have a Maxon motor.

I must admit if I could find a suitable source of metal gears I would have a go at making my own gearboxes.

 

I have a rotary table which can be used flat or vertical so it would be a case of working out how many degrees between each tooth. You can also cut gears using a fly cutter which makes setting it up a little cheaper but.. There is always a but. I would like to cut/buy helical gears rather than the normal spur gear type. Some research needed I think.