Ace Products 7mm Finescale O Gauge SR/BR Q1 Kit

Extension to fire iron tube.

Kim

 

Lads for the kind comments.
It’s amazing how much detailing is missing from this kit, possibly like other kits, the more you look at the close up pictures (again thanks to Roger and Kerry) the more you find. I can see more scratch building coming along as this model build progresses.

I returned to the tender chassis last night. I have decided to have slaters plunger pickups on the tender wheels, so I drilled out the chassis sides, then added the brake rods. At this point I stopped the build and sprayed the chassis complete with an etching primer then a flat black.

Once the pickups where added, the wheels could be refitted and then the brass brake shoes soldered in place. Wires were then attached to the pickups, except the front two as I’m not sure if I will hard wire the locomotive to the tender or use a plug.

Then a quick test under the tender body. As you can see, not much can be seen. The brake rodding is very fine, so this will be added last at the end of the build once the wiring is sorted out

Kim

 

The motor and gear box that Rob and Paul suggested arrived finally, so I thought I’d have a change of scene and get the loco chassis built.
Looks like I will be able to install the motor assembly to the centre axle but the body base plate will need some metal removed.

So after the dremel sorted out that little challenge it was time to solder the front buffer assembly and then add the rear cab floor plus spacers.

Removed from the jig ready for clean up. At this point I intend to re install the motor / gearbox assembly add the wheels and horn blocks and rods and then apply some power to test the running.

Kim

 

Chassis assembled with the horn blocks wired in.

Motor and gearbox fit in very well, I’m pleased with how low the motor fits.

Running forward at speed with some added weight.

Running in reverse, the motor assembly “kicks over “ so I will need to come up with a securing method. Holding the motor down with my finger for testing she ran well in reverse.
Perhaps York Paul or Rob might give me a couple of ideas on how they secure the motors in their kit builds

So now that I know the chassis works I will remove the wheels and motor assembly and start to add all the detailing to the chassis.


Kim

 

Cheers Yok Paul.....I think the idea of a wire tack soldered to the spacer on the chassis frame and then bent over the motor will work fine, so that’s the way I’ll go.

Cheers Gary, won’t be long now before we see you jumping in with both feet .....

Cheers Roger, yet more useful info and great pictures, thanks again.

Well the chassis is almost complete, will need a really good clean up after today’s efforts. Again the photos and info from Roger and Kerry have proved invaluable as the instructions and pictures supplied with the kit give no real info at all.

So here is where I’m up to now.

I’ve added a couple of pipes which with the aid of the drawing Roger scaled for me made bending the pipes to shape a very easy task. A couple of bits of etch and some wire made up the securing clamps for them (not sure any of this will be seen once painted, but at least I know it’s there !!)

Brakes will have to be fitted after the chassis is finished and sprayed up and reassembled as there’s no way to put the wheels on when they are fitted in the correct positions.
I’ve also drilled out the chassis frames read for the plunger pickups.

So,time to clean up the chassis......

Kim

 

Thanks Gary, yes they are a must have. There’s several different types to buy, this was relatively cheap, but it works.

Cheers York Paul, that is definitely the case with this kit, very basic instructions and I’m not a great fan of the white metal bits......just found out I’m a few more bits missing

Cheers Rob. If it’s good enough for you then I’m going to do it that way as well.


The chassis is 90% complete so after a good clean up the a wash I sprayed it with etching primer then 24 hours later a nice coat of Matt black.

So today’s challenge was to form the first section of the boiler. Great fun to do .......not !

I found it best to heat up the brass with a small blow touch, where the main bends needed to go, this made life a lot easier, once happy i tinned the inside and the inner face of the section panel. I taped the piece in place and added a clamp then using the touch on the inside, soldered it all up.

Detailing bits added (one wash out plug missing x#@# ) and then a good clean up.

Kim

 

The fire box has 4 wash out points, these are supplied as white metal parts in the kit, unfortunately I seem to only have 3 looking at the phototographs the wash out plugs have a rather prominent square plug which is not in the white metal casting, so I originally thought I would add a small piece of square plastic rodding super glued in to the white metal, but as I only have three, what to do ?

As you can see not the best to look at............

The photo and the scaled drawing Roger did for me shows the square plug.

Into the spares box.....

I only have square tubing, but that could be soldered up to form a square rod. Brass tubing is the same as the hole in the fire box...lucky find, and a scrape of brass......so a little bit of cutting, filing and a gentle touch with the soldering iron has produced this....

I think it’s a vast improvement on the white metal parts so just another three to make...again as with the chassis extra pipe work detailing, just hope it shows up on the finished model.

Kim